Single AA battery to light WHITE LED for long-long time

[Feynman]

@goat

I appreciate your input, I'm open to all ideas.   When I asked Marco about specifics of his graphite spark gap, but he was sayings its been years and  there are different configurations for low voltage spark gaps.  You'd have to make it small enough that it exceeds the dielectric strength of air as groundloop mentioned.  I have a draft schematic I can draw up , but it's basically just a spark gap on the output stage going to the capacitor in parallel with the LED.

I think the spark gap might work during the higher voltage transients because of the waveform of these joule thief circuits. In between the transients, the voltage would not be sufficient to jump across.

V/div = 0.2 , T/div = 10us .. but those transient peaks are real high, anywhere from 2V - 18V depending on where in the circuit you attach the probe.  From my joule thief replication using groundloops trifilar circuit.

Also  sorry to be unclear, I dont think the resitance is not an important point at all, I just happened to mention it because I ran some tests on mechanical pencils.  The main reason I'd use graphite is I can calibrate it under a microscope to however many micrometers are necessary, and I have a whole pack of mechanical pencils sitting on my bench.  You could probably do this (calibrate spark gap) too with the NE lamp as well if it was on a fixed surface and could fit under a microscope.  The NE lamp idea is definitely worth investigation.

Again, Thanks to all for the thoughts

[Goat]

@ Feynman

Thanks for the feedback

I don't disagree with your last post or any previous posts but please understand that I have never achieved a spark gap on low voltage, I have managed fairly impressive spark gaps using high voltage(s) though.

If you or anyone could show me how to produce and measure such a low voltage spark gap discharge when used in zon's circuit or anyone else's circuit PLEASE show me the error in my ways.

It's driving me nuts!

I know Tesla points to high voltage and high frequencies, I just don't see how to do it with low voltage.

Please forgive my ignorance in this matter.

Regards,
Paul

[turbo]

Hi,

If you want to use a classic spark, you need to make sure the voltage potential is sufficient to make it over to the other electrode.
Just raise the voltage untill it flashes over, and then lower the input so it stays exactly between the point of spraking/not sparking.
Below is a NE2 bulb attached to a capacitor via two ceramic HV diodes.
The little black stick is a carbon rod for use in a pencil.
When the spark hits the other side (the diodes) of the spark gap the electrons are accellerated before they hit the metal.
This charge is effectively seperated by the diodes and stored into the capacitor.
Be aware that it WILL CHARGE UP TO A LETHAL VOLTAGE!!!
Dont touch it just because you think there isn't that much energy there.
When the capacitor builds up its charge it will get to a threshold of app. 65 volts where it ignites the NE2 neon.
And if the circuit is tuned right it will keep lit depending on the lengths of wire used in the circuit.
If you switch a wire ALWAYS re-tune the circuit.
This you can do by placing another NE2 bulb just before the gap.(one one wire or just wrap one lead around the signal wire)
This bulb will not discharge but it will only shimmer when the circuit is at it's highest potential.
If the voltage is not sufficient, you need to use mechanical spark gap switching.
I have also found an easy way to do this by using two little DC motors pulled out of cd-rom drives.
Magnetize the needles and attach one of the wires to the case of the motor.
Put the two in series and make sure the needles touch each other.
Both motors will run away, one clockwise and one anti-clockwise and there will be a nice mechanical spark in between.

M.

[Goat]

@ Marco

Thank you very much, I see much potential in what you have presented. 

You have posted a very nice picture of a balanced circuit from what I can decipher, just a little blurry at my end (no fault of yours)

I shall do my best to dwell upon it and try to duplicate as best I can.

If you don't mind me asking, when you mention "Just raise the voltage untill it flashes over" how are you achieving this, I don't quite see the whole picture, could you post your circuit as a diagram as I'm a little unclear on the carbon connection.  I am certain now from what you mention that low voltage will not make the spark gap flash over unless you raise the voltage so that seems to answer that question.

I have had instances in the past where a battery driven circuit seemed to generate OU but after nearly 24 hours output suddenly dropped in votage out of nowhere, not sure how that happens in a circuit but the ones I've been messing with don't act normal

Sorry I'm part ADD so I need a picture to tell me the story and then I can build from that 

Much appreciated, keep fighting the good fight.  Fight for FREEDOM

Regards,
Paul

[amigo]

Marco,

In the second photo, the motors appear to be wired in such a way that the HV actually passes through them, with opposite wires connected to the case of the motor and the other ones leading away. Is that correct?

You also say to magnetize the needle, do you mean the rotor shaft?

Thanks.