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Overunity Machines Forum



Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

Started by Pirate88179, April 09, 2008, 09:43:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

resonanceman

Quote from: Pirate88179 on July 15, 2008, 09:44:05 PM
Gary:

The only problem I see with using shellac for insulation is that it will not pass water like the cotton will.  The moisture is part of the key I think.  Otherwise, we could just use regular plastic insulated wire which we all agree would be sooooo much easier to wind.

Yes, winding the spring would be a super pain in the a** but worth it if it does anything good.  If it doesn't, I am going to be pissed!!!! Ha ha ha.

Bill

Bill

The  windings  would  be insulated  with cotton
Only the  core windings would  be shellac 


gary

resonanceman

Quote from: resonanceman on July 15, 2008, 09:53:53 PM
Bill

The  windings  would  be insulated  with cotton
Only the  core windings would  be shellac 


gary


I am thinking   of  trying  a  coil  with a core like this  for the   plasma / water  engine 

The coils for it would both  be copper magnet wire .
DC through one wire .........and   output from the other
The  ignition  coil   connected to the core . 



gary

jeanna

Hi fellow winders  ;) ,

Bill and Gary, I like both of your ideas.

I think the compound Stubblefield coil is worth a try.

I also think shellac is a great thought.

I think shellac is going to be interesting with high voltage. and it is alcohol solved so it will combine well enough with the oil so that oil won't be a problem.

I remember 2 water related things about shellac.

1- shellac makes a great water vapor barrier for first coat of paint in the north east.

2- when my mother shellaced the coffee table the shellac would always absorb enough water from the rim of a glass that there would be a ring. The ring would eventually fade, I think as the vapor evaporated.

I knew some violin makers that were testing what they thought to be ancient varnish. They were using linseed oil that had been allowed to polymerize for a while sitting in the sun in a window for 2 years etc.

Linseed oil has interesting properties when it comes to water too.

@Storre:
Did you have any luck with your nc reed switches? anything at all?


I may not contribute for a while, but I am still looking. I am building a ferro-cement greenhouse dome this summer and it is a lot of work. And while I plaster the cement I am thinking about e's and m's and HHO a little too.

thank you all,

jeanna

resonanceman

Quote from: jeanna on July 15, 2008, 11:20:19 PM
Hi fellow winders  ;) ,

Bill and Gary, I like both of your ideas.

I think the compound Stubblefield coil is worth a try.

I also think shellac is a great thought.

I think shellac is going to be interesting with high voltage. and it is alcohol solved so it will combine well enough with the oil so that oil won't be a problem.

I remember 2 water related things about shellac.

1- shellac makes a great water vapor barrier for first coat of paint in the north east.

2- when my mother shellaced the coffee table the shellac would always absorb enough water from the rim of a glass that there would be a ring. The ring would eventually fade, I think as the vapor evaporated.

I knew some violin makers that were testing what they thought to be ancient varnish. They were using linseed oil that had been allowed to polymerize for a while sitting in the sun in a window for 2 years etc.

Linseed oil has interesting properties when it comes to water too.

@Storre:
Did you have any luck with your nc reed switches? anything at all?


I may not contribute for a while, but I am still looking. I am building a ferro-cement greenhouse dome this summer and it is a lot of work. And while I plaster the cement I am thinking about e's and m's and HHO a little too.

thank you all,

jeanna


Jeanna

I didn't  think about   the shellac  absorbing water
That  is bound  to affect  the  insulation  ability at least a little .


Quote
ferro-cement greenhouse dome

This  is not a combination  I would have  thought of 

I hope   you  post a picture  of it  some day .

gary

jeanna

@Bill
Here is a link to info from a guy who made a working device in a style that sounds like what you were describing yesterday.

http://www.angelfire.com/ak5/energy21/hanscoler.htm

Hans Coler is his name.

go for it.!!

--
(Gary- I am making the greenhouse dome out of ferrocement in an attempt to hold some thermal mass. It shouldn't get over heated as all glass greenhouses do, and in the winter it should keep the sun's warmth for a longer time than glass.

I will have the windows directed to pick up more winter than summer sun.)
-------------
@ Storre,

I would like to ask you to try something I cannot do with my smaller coils.

If there is a spark gap that can flash a spark between the 2 wires called 10 then I think the natural resonance of the coil will come alive and the coil will produce an oscillation.

I tried this on my hollow coil. It had a fairly long set of wires but they were thin. I could never see a spark, but if the frequency is too high, and it may be, then it would be there but ubdetectable by my eyes etc. and without an oscilloscope, I cannot see it with an instrument.

My digital multimeter gives a hint that it may be there.

Anyway, since your coil is made of long and fattish wires, I am asking you to perform the experiment I cannot do (unless I invest in more wire.)

BTW, did you make a large secondary for that coil?

thank you,

jeanna