Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

Started by Pirate88179, April 09, 2008, 09:43:54 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Quote from: Pirate88179 on August 02, 2009, 03:28:43 PM


I still have my original Stubblefield coil wound on the 12" iron spike. ...
That will do just fine
QuoteI am not clear on how you want me to hook it to my ERR.  Should I bury it and try series?  Or are you saying just add it to the circuit as a booster of sorts? (above ground)

Well, I don't know either, but for starters twist the 2 wires we called 5,6 one of each metal from the same end.
Connect that to a wire or an aligator clip at least. and connect it to where the original EER wire meets the mag block.
I hammered the stake into the ground but I did not dig a hole.

Mine is on the south side and my base metal was a neg side metal being covered in zinc.
I think I remember that is how yours were too. (?)

I am late in responding because I have just added one more to the north side.
I also wet it and need to wait for the ground to settle down. At first the volts took a .2v dive.  :P

I will post a pic if I can find one.
If not I will take one and post it if you are still not sure.
OK?

yeay!

jeanna
edit:
Here is a drawing I made yesterday to help.
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=7769.msg194676#msg194676

I found it.
I will leave that link for the details on it.
Here is a repeat of that pic.

Pirate88179

Jeanna:

Thanks for the explanation and the drawing.

I just got back in from a quick series of experiments.  I tried the old small NS coil in every configuration possible (except buried totally) and in every case, my volts went down.

I tied the 5,6 together
I tied the 10's together
I tried this the 5,6 open
I tried the 5,6 tied together and the 10's open
And every other possibility and variation I could come up with.

My starting volts from my EER was 1.95. 
The results varied with the above combinations as far as how low the volts dropped (I didn't record as they were all lower) but they ranged from 1.2 volts down to .12 volts.  In each case, as soon as the NS coil was removed from the circuit, it went back up to 1.95 volts.

I checked the NS coil for shorts, there are none anywhere.  The output from the NS coil was a low .6 volts but it still had 6 mA's.  I also checked amps while doing the above tests thinking that maybe the volts would drop a bit but I would increase mA's.....no dice...they went down as well.

I did come up with another experiment I want to try and that involves my 1 magnet no bearing Bedini motor and the EER.  I never tried before to feed the output spikes back to the EER.  Now these would be high voltage spikes at a pretty high frequency.  I wonder if this would resonate my system even a little bit sort of like a poor (ignorant) man's Kapanadze circuit?

I will try that another day but it is something to ponder about.

My coil showed some signs of rust from the iron wire which is why I checked it for shorts in the beginning.  My 5,6 wires and the 10's are on opposite ends of this coil and it is not helpful when burying it.  My other coil I wound so the wires all ended up on the same end, but that coil is gone.  I will have to back and check my posts but I seem to recall getting much better volts and mA's from even this little one than what I was seeing today.

I am glad it is working for you Jeanna but I could not improve anything with it over here.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

jeanna

My apologies, Bill, I did not make some things very clear.

I am using the scope, not the dmm.

My volts were down in the beginning, too.
Do you remember the day you reminded me that your volts went down but your amps went up? It was the next day that I took the same wire disconnected from the dome and connected the NS#9.

On that day I neglected to check the volts from just the extra wire before I added the NS#9.

I had been asking about ignition coils etc, so I connected the twisted 5,6 and woah looked at those spikes.

So, I must have not made clear this part that there are a couple of things that are different from what we used to do.

1- the scope is the meter I am using.
2- the 5,6 are connected which I guess are the wires at the bottom of your coil...

Do you only have one row on this one?

I am connecting the scope not to the NS#9 itself, but to the place in the middle of the EER it is at the end of.

I wonder if these are what you did too?

I think the back spikes are exactly what I am seeing.
I hope you can get back spikes from your NS coil and not just your bedini setup (although that is cool too)

jeanna

protonmom

@anyone:
Question about winding the NS EB.    I read that someone (Jeanna??) thought that Stubblefield wanted each succeeding layer of coil to be exactly on top of the first, meaning cu exactly on top of cu, and fe exactly on top of fe.  At least this is what I understood you to say.  Please tell me how that can be accomplished.  Tonight as I was winding my new coil, I really tried to make all the rows straight and even.  But no matter what, I could not get the upwind to lay exactly on top of the previous column.  Going back up from the bottom the cu ends up on top of the fe and fe on top of the cu.  What is the trick?  Wouldn't you have to reverse them in order to get them to lay on top of the correct wire?  Or, is that what I am doing wrong?  I coil down and then coil right back up always going in the same direction.  If you have to reverse direction, you will have to bend the wires at each new start of coil.  Or you would have to start with a clean wire for each coil, leaving you with a ton of loose ends.  Could you provide me with a drawing showing how you are winding?  If you have already posted one somewhere, please direct me to it.
One more thing...  Does it make any difference in the direction you start a coil?  Does it have to be clockwise or counterclockwise...and why. 
Sorry for the long post and the interruption. Thanks

protonmom

@Jeanna
I hate to be a pest, but could you do something for me?  When you post those scope photos, could you please explain to those of us who don't understand them, just what they show?  I would sure appreciate it.  Thanks.