Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[Pirate88179]

@ Gary:

I thought about using coal or charcoal too but the price of a decent sized carbon rod is not all that high.  This one is 1" diameter and about 18" long.  It cost me about $20.00 including shipping.  I have since cut it into two pieces but it still works great.  I want to couple these to one of those magnesium electrode bags and see what can be obtained.

I don't think the separate pots inside the house would work anywhere near as well.  I did a lot of testing in the beginning and having the correct alignment outside in the ground makes a huge difference.  Just being off of the north/south meridian even a few degrees made quite a bit of difference in both the vdc and the mA's.

Bill

[resonanceman]

I don't think the separate pots inside the house would work anywhere near as well.  I did a lot of testing in the beginning and having the correct alignment outside in the ground makes a huge difference.  Just being off of the north/south meridian even a few degrees made quite a bit of difference in both the vdc and the mA's.

Bill

how  much is a huge  difference ?

I agree that  outside   would be better ..........  IF  you have the space .

I  don't  have any  outdoor space .

It seems to me that   the   annoodes  should  put out  around  as much  as   they would  on as corrosion  preventors ......there  would  be no  attempt  to align them  for that application .


gary

[Pirate88179]

@ Gary:

I understand.  I too have very limited outdoor space.  I guess, if you kept the bag moist, it should put out the specified power .  You are correct, they do not do any alignment when using them on the underground tanks and pipes.

Before I "tweaked" my alignment, I was getting about 1 vdc and 2 mA's.  After careful alignment changes, I got up to 2.2 vdc and 9 mA's.  A pretty substantial increase.  I was hoping the same thing might be true for the electrode and bag approach.  To me, the specified power ratings are impressive as it is, but, I always like to try to do better. But, having said that, I would be thrilled with 1 amp.!!!

Bill

[resonanceman]

@ Gary:

I understand.  I too have very limited outdoor space.  I guess, if you kept the bag moist, it should put out the specified power .  You are correct, they do not do any alignment when using them on the underground tanks and pipes.

Before I "tweaked" my alignment, I was getting about 1 vdc and 2 mA's.  After careful alignment changes, I got up to 2.2 vdc and 9 mA's.  A pretty substantial increase.  I was hoping the same thing might be true for the electrode and bag approach.  To me, the specified power ratings are impressive as it is, but, I always like to try to do better. But, having said that, I would be thrilled with 1 amp.!!!

Bill

Bill

that is a pretty  impressive  improvememt

It  will be interesing  to see  if  the  big ones  maintain that improvement .


gary

[jeanna]

Hi all,

Just catching up, so I will be quick.

I used charcoal filter granules from a spent brita water filter. It gave me better results than the 5 or 6 carbon rods (tied together) that the ex-welder gave me to try.

The trouble with the granules is that they are not something you can solder. I suppose they would make a nice battery if they were put into to a zinc pipe. Even so, they aren't an electrode. technical problems. I think Bills carbon rod was the best.

mthompson quoted something I have not actually seen in the patent.
I wonder where that came from. The brochure? Is it out there somewhere? Mr. Lochte hasn't sent me his copy yet.

My nice meter broke. I was testing 2 NS coils on my mountain and left it a while. The battery is fine, but the lcd screen wo'nt read. I need to squeeze the case to take a reading. I am wondering if it warped. It was in the hot sun for a couple of hours. (I guess for $10 I can try another one.)

I was trying a new test. I had a 1Kohm resistor on the Fe6 in series with the meter and reading across the Cu5 and the Fe6 with its resistor, but I had also clipped the Fe10 to the corepiece 1. The reading was going up, and I assume to the .75vdc that the Fe6 to the core showed.

When I connected the Cu10 to this corepiece 1 the volts dropped down. I assume to zero. I may not have waited but it would have been close.

So, I keep thinking about those metal globes that are at the top of the batteries and if they are connected to the corepiece 1 , then the 10's wires could be almost connected to the corepiece 1 and just allowed to spark off the globes. Then, they would alternate high and low.

Now, I don't know for sure that they would spark, but if they do, it would be a built-in make and break. I keep looking for this built in make and break. I think it is there somewhere; somehow, I think it is part of how the wires are connected etc.

jeanna