Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[jeanna]

put a very small light in line with the reed switch. If the light stays on

What type of wire sizes have been tried here? What has been an easy way to insulate one of the wires? I'm thinking of using bandage tape but maybe there is something easier. I heard of something they use in speaker insulation that might work.

Not bandage tape. At least not what I bought. The glue keeps too much water out. I got very low galvanic action with it. Too bad. It was easy.

What kind of light works on .5vdc?

I just had a talk with an EE from NZ while he was replacing my battery. We talked about this battery. He never built one of these but he said silk then he said or cotton. I said wow. another mention of silk?  There is an audio store in Aussie that stated the wire they had (but no longer sell) for speakers that was wound in silk was the one they preferred. They said less noise. I wonder if that would translate.

Silk is easy because it is sooo thin and strong. I gave Gary a link a while back. Thaisilk I think.

Otherwise thin cotton. the thinner the easier. It doesn't need to do anything but keep the 2 wires moist and apart to allow the electrons to penetrate and do their mysterious dance.

What is this speaker wire covering that you mentioned?

I noticed  a couple of weeks ago that the copper with its cloth is equal in girth to that of the of the iron wire. That is according to the drawing NS uses.

I have used 18 and 24 paired up usually to match each other.

Gary used a really thick wire. (Gary must have really strong fingers!!)

thank you,

jeanna

wow cool day. battery replaced, reed switches out, another party ready to make a NS battery!

[jeanna]

If there is to much current  the  contacts will usuallly  weld themselves closed 


gary

I see. So it is like choosing the 1/4 watt or the 1/2 watt resistor based on current.

thank you,

jeanna

[Pirate88179]

Don't forget the cotton cord method.  Very easy to wind...well...easier than wrapping the copper wire.  Seems to work well...so far.  Also, standard T-shirt cotton was used on the core and in between layers.  The cotton tubing used for speaker wire would be the best but, the ones I saw were expensive.  We will find a better, easier way if we keep looking at the problem.

Bill

[jeanna]

Don't forget the cotton cord method.  Very easy to wind...well...easier than wrapping the copper wire.  Seems to work well...so far.  Also, standard T-shirt cotton was used on the core and in between layers.  The cotton tubing used for speaker wire would be the best but, the ones I saw were expensive.  We will find a better, easier way if we keep looking at the problem.

Bill

But sooo thick.

You always get good primary readings but he said it needed to be closely wound and the picture shows it so much closer than a string would allow.

I like Chad's method but I won't be using it anymore, I cannot get the wires close enough.

Bill,
None of us has done your first suggestion which is to sew a tube around the copper wire. I may try that next. I think that is the best idea so far. It seems the hardest but maybe it isn't.

jeanna

[jeanna]

wow

This afternoon before all the battery replacement activity I put my coil that has fatter iron wire wrapped on a 1/4 inch thick bolt into some water inside. I stuck the old meter leads on it. read it and forgot about it.

I just walked into the kitchen and flipped the switch on and I watched as the voltage oscillated its way up from 0.245vdc to 0.320vdc. I went up 30 mv and down 25 then up 30 again. It is now oscillating between 0.310 and 0.280 or so. It changes value 3 or 4 times a second, probably every new sample is different.

Does anybody else have a coil that keeps oscillating just the primary in water?

This is looking good to me.

This is one that has 18 gauge iron wire and 24 gauge copper wire. One of my new experiments. (based on that observation of the pic in the patent where the copper was thinner wire than the iron)

jeanna