Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[storre]

@jeanna:

The cap results you got seem right to me. Same as if you put a cap across a battery's terminals. You just put 2 in parallel by putting one across the 10s also. The cap is just going to hold the difference in pressure from the galvanic response which shows your cell is working. We just need to see if it's enough power to turn off the reed switch. If not then we just need to use more wire. Same as the difference between a small wet cell and a larger one. Bigger plates is the only difference and in the NS battery the plates are the 2 wires 5-10 and 6-10. The things I'm going to experiment with is the difference between using more wire or bigger wire. More wire I think would be equivalent to a wet cell battery with plates with a lot of surface area like used in cars for releasing the amperage quickly. Overall, more wire on the primary should increase the amperage.

@Bill:

I think if we look at this as a regular battery even though it has one special property, it will make more sense what is going on. A regular battery will do the same thing in regards to the caps. You could put one cap across the terminals of a battery. If the battery is new it will have a charge that will partially be stored in the capacitor as a difference in pressure. You could do this over and over until the battery was depleted. Doesn't matter if you put it across the top terminals or reach in the battery and connect it to the bottom of the plates. Same thing as connecting across 5-6 and then 10-10.

The special quality about the NS battery from what I can figure out is if you use its electromagnet properties (just because the plates are stretched out (the wire) and turned around a coil) you can use that to turn itself off (with the NS reed switch) which will then immediately short the battery and cause the magnetic field to start up again, disabling the reed switch and on and on. This to me means the ions will be passing from one plate (wire) to the other as a galvanic response BUT then bouncing back when the reed switches opens. It seems like discharges and recharges 100s of times per second. Sort of like a water hammer no? A water hammer magically lifts water above it's primary level by the very fast turning on a shutting off the flow and taking advantage of the slap back to propel it to a higher altitude? Would the equivalent in electrons be back EMF? Maybe that is what the reed switch is creating. A type of back EMS that is used to move charge from one plate to the other and then slap it back. Maybe this is why NS says in the patent that the battery does not continue to discharge itself because the slap-back instantly recharges it. Like a pendulum that never stops swinging. This way there is no oxidation of the anode. Then use this never ending pulsing and put a secondary over it and with induction, get useable higher voltage by putting a lot more windings on the secondary. That is how he got the hi frequency ac on the secondary. I see the primary as AC also but someone here called it pulsed DC. In the end I suppose it doesn't matter because you can use the same to do work either way.

So Bill I don't think we should mess with trying to capture power from the primary. Just use it's oscillating to power our secondary and use that for work. Higher voltage is always more useful anyway because we can make amps from it.

About the drawing, I think the large we make the primary the stronger the electromagnet effect so that we open the reed switch or the mechanical one I drew. Just like a small AAA battery connected to a coil will create a weak electromagnet but a larger battery (more wire) will create a stronger one. We just need to reach that threshold to open the reed switch. I ordered a few from Ebay (wow are NC reeds hard to find!) so soon I should be able to test it. I think the crude one I drew could work but would require a bigger primary to life the metal up to open the circuit. A very small reed switch should be able to oscillate easier too.

@jeanna:

I think if we make the primary big enough, it has to create an electromagnet strong enough to do work with. If you take a coil and connect it to a strong enough battery you can create an electromagnet as everyone knows. The cool thing about the NS battery is the battery is ALSO the coil but it's still a battery. Just an interesting one because the plates are very long and thin and coiled but they still have the same function as a regular wet cell battery. So if it works with a regular battery then if we make it big enough it will create an electromagnet exactly until the point that the field is strong enough and then the reed switch opens in the presence of the magnetic field which because of the design of the switch turns OFF the circuit and the field collapses and it starts all over again. We are just connecting a coil up to a battery and disconnecting it very quickly but instead of doing it manually we are using the electromagnetic effects of this battery to control the switch. Like a ball that never stops bouncing. Remember it's going to happen exactly at the speed it needs to be. The electromagnet will build up just until it's strong enough to open the reed switch and turn itself off so the switch has to close since that it's natural state and then it starts all over again. So it can't run faster than itself and not create enough EMF. The rest of what you wrote syncs with what I'm thinking.

@Bill

I think instead of putting more cells in series to activate the reed switch, we just need to keep increasing the primary size until the galvanic battery produces enough amps to open the reed switch. We could test all this by just putting a battery in line with the coil to increase the amps. At one point the reed switch should start bouncing as it turns on and off the circuit and thus the electromagnet.
About OU I think if we don't incorporate the reed switch, we will not get OU because it will just be a standard battery and eventually oxidize itself to a dead battery. Just put a very small load across 5 and 6 and watch the voltage decrease over time like a regular battery would. The pulsing action with the reed switch is what I think discharges and recharges the battery to make it OU or at least a self recharging battery.

"To obtain any required voltage."  would this possibly mean the required voltage to operate the reed make/break system?
Bill, to me this is exactly what he is saying.

My wife reminded me last night that I might have a very interesting electrolyte. I use to work for a guy in turkey that did something to ionize water and I have gallons of it. You can for example use it as a wire with virtually no loss and no heat developing in the water. I've done it with 110-220 volts by putting the hot wire from the mains in the water and then at whatever distance put one of the wires from a 110v incandescent in the water and having the other wire of the light connected directly to the neutral or other main in the case of 220v and the bulb lights and shows no loss of power. Just like salt water would do but there is NO salt in the water. It's like fresh water but has some extra ions in it. This could be a great electrolyte to make the galvanic action much better between the iron and copper. Can't wait to try it. If anyone is interested here is a video I did showing that technology plus a lot more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CogOHEpfgA

He does the thing with the light bulb at about 7:10

For the curious, that's my voice in the video

[Pirate88179]

@ storre:

Great post!!  I will watch the video in a bit and reply to you in more detail, but I need to go to work now.  I just wanted to say that I agree with your thinking in general, and specifically the larger wire, more wire=larger plates in a standard battery.  I believe this to be correct.

I will post more later.  I can't wait to check out the info on the "altered" water....very interesting.  Thanks.

Bill

[jeanna]

Hi All,

I just received the brochure, well a copy.

I asked for permission to post it here. When if that comes in I will, but for now, I want to share this interesting info.

He has 2 sections electromagnet and induction coil.

In the electromagnet section he says if you hook up the "inner to outer or outer to inner" terminals you achieve the electromagnet.

So, this is where the reed switch or relay should go.

Later in the induction coil set up he says once you have achieved the electromagnet state and you add a secondary you will have the induction coil.

the first part is what I want to address. He is using inner and outer to solve the language problem. I think was it mthompson that described just this? NOT leaving the 10's alone but Connecting the 10Cu to the 6Fe / alternately the 10Fe with the 5Cu. I need to go back to look at the implications from yesterday's post.

jeanna

[Pirate88179]

@ All:

Here is a link to some free software that calculates all things to do with wire. (Below copied from site)


Works with ALL versions of Windows!

* Insulation Data & Specifications
* Dimensional Data for a wide range of sizes
* Current Capacities
* Voltage Breakdowns
* Resistance Calculator
* Break Strength Calculator
* Length to Weight Conversions
* Tips on stripping/soldering
* Ordering Info


http://www.wiretron.com/free.html


Bill

[Pirate88179]

@ Jeanna:

I look forward to reading the information.  I am still not sure what to make of this but, this is good to know.  I hope he allows you to post it here. 5,6, to the 10s then?  Inner to outer, that has to be it.  Good work.

Bill