Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[storre]

I was wondering if all the layers must be producing galvanic reaction in order for this generator to work.

I have some 100 ft wire, but it is telephone wire and plastic covered.

Since I don't have any NC reed switches and the weeds are whaked I am thinking again.

I think I will make a 100 ft coil. I will wind the first row with cloth around the copper wire, then continue making many layers with the plastic covered copper.

I will guess how long the copper should be and strip the wire that much then continue with the wire as it is.

If this works, I should get enough voltaic to start up the magnetism, and then all the turns should give some real voltage that can then be transferred to a secondary.

Any ideas about this? Is this another dead end?

Think I should end up with some more voltaic too?

I will start with only the innermost coil cotton wrapped then I will see about the outer, I guess.

jeanna

@jeanna

The more galvanic response, the more amperage which is what is needed to activate the NC reed switch. If you have layers that are not having galvanic response because of insulating coverings then it's only going to reduce the amperage which is going to reduce the electromagnetism. The first step is to get the reed switch oscillating then we can have FUN with the secondary to up the voltage to something more useful Today I ordered a bunch of NC reed switches from Meder from 10-60 AT so I hope to start in a week with the testing.

[jeanna]

@jeanna

The more galvanic response, the more amperage which is what is needed to activate the NC reed switch.

I did not find that to be true with my coils. I got a voltage on the first row and it stayed pretty close to that after every row of winds. Only one of my coils ever showed any amperage to mention. 18milliamps. that was in the kitchen before I added the secondary. After the secondary it was like the rest - a little higher but still below 1 milliamp.

reduce the electromagnetism.

What I was thinking was that with a sizeable copper coil with some magnetism, I would have a better chance of some ac voltage. As long as the magnetism that is there reaches through the coil I produce, it should work. I would still make it bifilar bimetal, just not cloth covered after the first row. Well that is my thinking.

The first step is to get the reed switch oscillating

That statement sounds like you already have a working primary since otherwize the primary would be your first step.

So, since I assume that is true,

How about sharing the stats on your primary with us.  ( I remember you were taking your first one apart, but I don't remember the second one??)

Today I ordered a bunch of NC reed switches from Meder from 10-60 AT so I hope to start in a week with the testing.

Did you call them? I didn't see NO or NC on their stats lists. which ones did you order, how much?


any pics for us? you are good at drawing; how about a pic of your coil. we like pics.

thank you,

jeanna

[storre]

@jeanna:

Voltage should be constant if you use more or less wire because it's dependent on the difference in potential between the 2 metals we are using. The amperage should increase as we make the electrodes (wires) bigger. Have you measured the volt and amp output of 6fe-10cu or 5cu-10fe with the battery immersed in water? What about adding some salt just for testing purposes? What are you using to isolate the 2 wires? Just cotton? Are the 2 wires on the bifilar in close proximity to each other as they are wound around the coil? We have to make sure the battery is a well constructed battery but until we oscillate it by using the reed switch switched on and off with the electromagnet created by the battery then it will just be a normal battery and decay quickly as the anode is consumed.

Today I will start with some testing before my NC reed switches arrive. I got a roll of 2.1mm galvanized wire and I already have some 1.5mm and 4mm copper. Not sure what effect the galvanizing will have but thought I would give it a try. I still need to get the silk or cotton tubing.

The amps on the secondary I think will always be the same as the primary. The secondary should just increase the volts.

What I was thinking was that with a sizeable copper coil with some magnetism, I would have a better chance of some ac voltage. As long as the magnetism that is there reaches through the coil I produce, it should work. I would still make it bifilar bimetal, just not cloth covered after the first row. Well that is my thinking.

When you say AC you mean from the secondary right? I think if you only partially do the primary as he indicates in the patent then it's just going to be a weak battery and a weak battery = weak electromagnet. That is why I was even suggesting to pump up the earth battery buy adding inline a conventional battery. Just to increase the electromagnetism but really the solution is to make the ns primary big enough to become a usable electromagnet. I really think we should forget about the secondary until we have a functioning (according to the patent) primary. It needs to just exhibit enough magnetism to flip the switch. The trick will be to test if this is happening. I don't think a light in line will work because there might not be enough volts to light it. We can't put a meter on because that will effect the reed switch since we basically would be putting in parallel a resistor (the meter). Some energy will be lost by doing that and we need as much as we can get. The only thing I can think of is an inductive meter but that is what the secondary sort of is. Well winding a crude secondary may be the cheapest easiest way if you don't have an inductive meter. From the secondary we can test the Hz to see if it's oscillating and also the voltage and amps. All isolated so to have zero effect on the primary circuit.

No I don't have a working primary. I'm waiting for my nc reed switches and silk or cotton tubing. Will order the tubing today but I don't live in the US so things take a little longer to receive :-/

I emailed them and convinced them it was for a big project (could be right?) :-) and they are sending me 10 samples with various AT ratings. I will start with an AT 10 but I think it just needs to be sensitive enough to function. I think the Hz will not be effected whether it's an AT 10 or AT 60 rating. I promised to by 1000 units if it works in the project. I want to make a lot of these batteries because it would be very useful in the very remote region I live in I can email you the pdf. I think is too large to upload here. The part number is KSK-1C90U-1520 which is 15-20AT rating.

A drawing I thought I uploaded here yesterday. It's similar to another one I uploaded a couple of days ago but uses a reed switch and also has the battery in the picture but that can just be removed. Just an idea for testing.

[Pirate88179]

@ storre:

DO NOT ADD SALT!!!!  This has been tested by me and.....it did nothing but almost destroy my first cell.  I added just a pinch to the water in my sink and everything went to 0 and stayed there for many days.  Some folks gave me helpful suggestions like putting the cell in hot water to dissolve the salt, which I did.  It took many baths in very hot water and several days for it to come back.  It never fully recovered but, it works pretty decent now.

I have added a little distilled white vinegar as suggested by someone else and the mA's went through the roof.  At least for me anyway.  I was able to get it up from 20 mA to about 80 with a little vinegar.  This result is short lived however, it goes away after about 3 days outside in the ground.

Just wanted to pass this on.  Hope it helps.

Bill

[jeanna]

@Bill
RIGHT do NOT add salt. I did that too. It didn't destroy mine as it did yours, but the readings went down  as I added more salt. curious but not to be done at first.

Vinegar makes acidulated environment. I am sure he has warned us very clearly to stay neutral. I suppose if you have a coil you don't mind destroying go ahead, but I think it will polarize it because that is what NS says it will do.

I am glad you posted, I didn't get the message that there was a post today so I missed storre's post.

@storre,
I am sorry I didn't get back earlier. I am visiting a friend in 20 minutes so I can post this and go. I will check in when I return.

My meter that read amps and uamps is broken. I got it to do something today but I think the display is gone. so I cannot report on amps anymore.

I have plenty of primarys to use. This one I am making with just the beginning being cloth covered is number 15. Number 11 is my best. I have readings on it and can go from them. It has a small secondary on it etc.

There are 2 others. One that broke and one that is a lot like that one but only a primary.

I was actually getting readings off the one that broke. I assume the next one will be similar.

I downloaded the pdf. thank you for the item number. This makes it a lot easier to look at.

As far a amperage is concerned, I hope something works. So far the amperage is very low. I am flying around the outside edges of the box. I have next to no training in this so I don't know where the box is! so, I will try this. You are at a different place from me. Make a primary. make another one make 2 matched primarys. then you will have something to work with.

I don't know about the cloth. silk dries quicker but in audio applications it has a pure sound. and cotton has a warm sound. (that is what one audio site said.) Pure means no noise. warm means noise. not raunchy noise, but color and that is additional overtones. I do not know how that translates to electronic frequency. pure overtones ought to get us a clearer resonance when we find the resonance. The coil that is so good but that broke was made with silk.

It is the only one whose secondary gave out volts. The rest - like that vid on youtube, where the guy says I can't get it to do anything but this is the secondary" then drops it into the ground, don't even make a .001 happen on the meter.

I won't even check this for sense. I am late

jeanna