Stubblefield coils (bifilar) and speculations

[storre]

Here is just a quick mockup using NS patent. I plan to use use stiff wire so I can adjust the position to be further or closer to the bolt top. Where do you think the field would be the strongest? Also the points that the 10s enter the end cap could be changed to make wiring of the reed switch easier. There is no reason I can as to why they can't enter together using two small holes drilled next to each other or even an oblong hole. As long as the bifilar never touches itself then it's ok. This way the 10s could be on the same size and the 5 and 6 could be on the opposite side since you will use one of each to connect the reed switch. I've tested the reed switch function by making a standard electromagnetic coil wrapped around an iron tube instead of solid bolt. Then I hooked an external battery - to one end of the coil and hooked the other end of the coil to a metal bolt that slipped in the cylinder. Then positioned the positive terminal of the battery so that the bolt when down because of gravity would touch the top of the battery + which would complete the circuit, turn on the electromagnet and pull up the bolt like a solenoid. Then of course fall instantly back down since lifting up the bolt would disconnect the circuit. I just wanted to see what the action was like. It was so fast that you could just hear it vibrating and sparking at the same time. Of course this is not free energy but it was just to see the action which will be the same if we make the ns primary big enough to open the red switch. I think it will be easy because you can get reed switches a hell of a lot more sensitive that what I created which was lifting up a hung of metal that wasn't even magnetic itself. It's possible NS did something similar but making it much more light and sensitive. Even though I felt mine was oscillating many times per second. Not 100Hz I think but faster than I could perceive.

[jeanna]

. Of course this is not free energy but it was just to see the action which will be the same if we make the ns primary big enough to open the red switch. I think it will be easy because you can get reed switches a hell of a lot more sensitive that what I created which was lifting up a hung of metal that wasn't even magnetic itself. It's possible NS did something similar but making it much more light and sensitive. Even though I felt mine was oscillating many times per second. Not 100Hz I think but faster than I could perceive.

Storre,

In a way this is engouraging but it is also discouraging.

It is nice to hear that you were able to perceive that bit of oscillation. in your coil.

On the other hand with the tiniest reed switch that the company had seen, I wasn't able to get it to respond to the mag field of my real primary coil. So, that is pretty discouraging.

I may post a pic of one of my coils to show you what I am asking for when I ask for a pic of something. This drawing is ultra clear, but I wasn't confused about your intent. I just wanted to SEE your work around.  (BTW, I do not want to be a pest, but the drawing shows incorrectly which one is cu and fe. I think we ought to be very accurate here because NS choice of terms is tricky. The fe is 6 and the cu is 5)

Here is a coil that is called 9. I took pics of this as I was making it . It has 394 turns of red mag wire under that white plastic. It was more productive before the secondary went on but even tho there is small voltage there are .9mA across these terminals 5 and 6. (I am rewetting it now, I think it will be a lot better in a few minutes.)I used a yogurt lid for a washer. Also note the elect tape around the bolt head to keep from shorting the wires.

jeanna

[storre]

@jeanna:

What type of reed switch did you use? NC or NO and what AT rating was it?

I thought I had the wires marked correctly but didn't look back at the patent specs to make sure. In the end though it doesn't make a difference in the functioning of it. Copper should be 5 and Iron 6 as he specifies in line 80 of the patent. The copper wire 5 being incased in cotton or silk.

Just imagine the wires stretched out so it resembles more of a conventional battery and I think you will be able to visualize it better. Something like this drawing I've attached.

This pic you show of your coil#9 what is the primary made like? I think we really need to concentrate on getting the primary working first to activate the reed switch. Make sure you use a NC reed switch connecting one end to copper and the other to iron making sure they are connecting at the opposite ends of the bifilar. Also make sure there is NO metal to metal contact anywhere throughout the coil.

Also the 4 wires I see coming out of the (primary?) seems pretty small. What size wire and how many turns did you use on the primary and what did you wrap the copper in?

I wish I my reed switches were here already so I can stop typing and start building like you They arrive June 8 with the silk and cotton tubes also :-)

[Localjoe]

@Jeanna

Your primary coil is much too small weight and size wise for the readings your going for.  You need bigger wire to get readings on par i used 12 gauge bare copper and 10 or 8 guage steel cable. Thats huge compared to those little wires and the surface area accounts for the diff, my cell is approx the same dimensions 2 layers about that long but reads .9 v 18 ma so the current is what you setup is lacking and when you beef up the wires a bit you should see more of an electromagnet effect.  


@storre

It would have to be nc so the short initiated the electromagnetic pull hence pulling the reed away from the contact breaking the connection.   







                                                                                                          Joe

[storre]

@Jeanna

Your primary coil is much too small weight and size wise for the readings your going for.  You need bigger wire to get readings on par i used 12 gauge bare copper and 10 or 8 guage steel cable. Thats huge compared to those little wires and the surface area accounts for the diff, my cell is approx the same dimensions 2 layers about that long but reads .9 v 18 ma so the current is what you setup is lacking and when you beef up the wires a bit you should see more of an electromagnet effect.  


@storre

It would have to be nc so the short initiated the electromagnetic pull hence pulling the reed away from the contact breaking the connection.   

                                                                                                          Joe

Yes I know it should be NC. Been saying that all along. Just wasn't sure how to make it in the picture since it could be in either state at the moment. In the picture just consider it accurate for the instant the EM field builds enough to open it

Also I agree with you about the coil. There is a threshold of mA that we have to reach before it will have enough EM to open the reed switch. Things don't always scale up and down and still work. I think this will work much bigger but going smaller has it's limits unless we use super sensitive reed switches but then what's the point of generating 2 mA haha.