URGENT! WATER AS FUEL DISCOVERY FOR EVERYONE TO SHARE

[jibbguy]

i've been looking at the circuit diagram thinking about your q as to where to put the negative lead on the scope probe, and it is a good one... It's very easy to smoke a scope this way (and if it's attached to a PC, possibly smoke that too).

It is safest to leave the scope in AC mode and not use the ground at all (you will still get readings). This caution is because the whole circuit is floating off-ground; and most scopes powered by AC are "single-ended to ground" (non-isolated); unless advertised as "isolated" (rare and more expensive). Battery-powered 'scopes are easier and safer to use in this respect (...act like a DVM), but if interfaced via USB remember that it gets a ground via the PC so this is still very important to remember or damage to the PC could occur.

If you absolutely had to have DC measurement with an AC-powered or PC-interfaced scope, you would first need to earth-ground the negative of the battery and inverter (run a wire to the third hole in a wall socket).. This is assuming the plug ground actually was wired-up correctly in the wall, the scope itself is grounded via the third lug of the power cord, and that it plugs into the same AC circuit (..these things are not always true, lol), and then leave the neg. scope lead attached at that point (no other spot in that circuit will be "safe" for the ground lead, unless the scope is battery powered and not interfaced to a PC).

Some people try "cheating" by cutting off the third lug on the scope's power cord to "float" it: Bad idea; you can get badly shocked this way if you touch the chassis (unless you wired that house/garage yourself and are positively sure about the wiring).

Assuming that scope probe is a "X 1" with the usual 1 M Ohm input impedance; a 9 or 10 Meg. Ohm resister in series with the positive lead tip will raise the total input impedance and the max. allowed voltage 10 or 11 times (this is what a "X10" scope probe does, many have little slide switches for this right on the probe). You would just have to remember your measurements would be correspondingly ten or 11 times higher that what you read on the screen; and accuracy would now correspond to the quality of the resistor.

[callanan]

Hi All,

I have fully replicated the effect that Luc describes and shows. It is truly astounding! With no water and a dry spark plug you get normal cap discharges and nothing special. Spray a bit of water and it is like fire crackers going off! The water will continue to explode when fired repetitively until it has all gone from within the spark plug. This can take a minute or two at a 1 second repitition rate. The more fine the water and spray, the more powerfull an explosion and it is undoubtedly an extreme fuel based explosion which in this case, the fuel is water. Please see my video where I have tried to capture the explosions with angle shots but my digital camera does not do justice in representing the true power of the explosive ignitions of the water. This is very real stuff indeed folks!

http://www.youtube.com/m1a9r9s9

I am attaching a circuit diagram of my test setup and some pictures to this post. Regarding the circuit, the most important part of the discharge side is the need for a high current high voltage diode. I have simply used 16 x 1N5404 in series. They are 4 amp diodes. My oscillator is a basic radiant oscillator that I released years ago and is a very good and simple radiant energy oscillator. As far as RE being at work here, we all need to do much more experimentation to prove it is required as opposed to convention energy. I do know that my simple circuit uses 1-1.5 amps input at 12 volts and this energy input can be brought down significantly with more efficient circuit design.

Regards,

Ossie

[pese]

Hi All,

I have fully replicated the effect that Luc describes and shows. It is truly astounding! With no water and a dry spark plug you get normal cap discharges and nothing special. Spray a bit of water and it is like fire crackers going off! The water will continue to explode when fired repetitively until it has all gone from within the spark plug. This can take a minute or two at a 1 second repitition rate. The more fine the water and spray, the more powerfull an explosion and it is undoubtedly an extreme fuel based explosion which in this case, the fuel is water. Please see my video where I have tried to capture the explosions with angle shots but my digital camera does not do justice in representing the true power of the explosive ignitions of the water. This is very real stuff indeed folks!

http://www.youtube.com/m1a9r9s9


I am attaching a circuit diagram of my test setup and some pictures to this post. Regarding the circuit, the most important part of the discharge side is the need for a high current high voltage diode. I have simply used 16 x 1N5404 in series. They are 4 amp diodes. My oscillator is a basic radiant oscillator that I released years ago and is a very good and simple radiant energy oscillator. As far as RE being at work here, we all need to do much more experimentation to prove it is required as opposed to convention energy. I do know that my simple circuit uses 1-1.5 amps input at 12 volts and this energy input can be brought down significantly with more efficient circuit design.

Regards,

Ossie

If avaiable use Faster Diodes than 1N5400 series.
Use AVALANCHE diode to protect against hi voltages peak.
so i tpmt need 16 diodes.
with faster diodes (switching time) you have also more efficientce in output voltages -

Gustav Pese

[Dread]

Gotoluc & Callanan,

You might want to think about replacing the water sprayer with steam from an electric kettle, this would simulate heated vapour in ICE (pre-ignition) also, if you could run the steam through a strong EM field prior to igniting it, the effects might be worth the effort.
BTW. I believe S1R's surge issues are nothing more than inconsistent water metering.

Rgds. to all.   

[alan]

I think you mean through an E only field, like Meyer said?