Linnard?s hydrogen on demand system without electricity !

[Davetech]

Here is a hacksaw blade touted as being tungsten carbide. From one of overunity.com's advertisers, no less.

http://www.toolking.com/milwaukee_48-43-0200.aspx

Would anyone be able to make an educated guess whether the entire blade is likely to be tungsten carbide, or just the teeth?

I would ask the company but my experience asking companies about their products usually has dismal results and I thought someone here might know.
Thanks.

Edit: Meh... I decided to go ahead and contact the company. Turns out they have a very nice online-chat product adviser, but my question was not in her book. So she referred me to a 1-800 number to their tech dept and after a few minutes of consulting they told me just the teeth are tungsten carbide treated.

Drat.
Double Drat even!

[rwwendland]

  What's up with Resin Rat - no posting since 1st September - also Dingus Mungus - no posting since 31st August. I hope you two haven't been busted by BIG BROTHER, please let us know you're still around !

[Davetech]

Hi RW,

I share your apprehension. For days I have been expecting something new from RR2 or Dingus. Resin Rat 2, If you can hear this, tap 3 times.


@brnbrade  I started wondering if the bottle of Milk of Magnesia on top of my refrigerator might not be a colloidal mixture of magnesium. I examined the back label and, what do you know... there is your magnesium hydroxide. You were way ahead of me. But the magnesium is bound up with hydrogen, so I don't know if it would be available as a catalyst. It also has an equal amount of aluminum hydroxide, and I have no idea how that would get along with the rest of the items in the cell. Chemistry is /not/ my strong point.

I am leery of trying it. I could arrange to be far from the cell while experimenting so I would not get blown over my house, but poisonous gases can be invisible and odorless.

Thoughts anyone?     Tap 3 times RR2.

[ResinRat2]

I have not had anything of interest to post. I have had difficulty drilling the holes in the reactor. I am sure most people are not interested in my personal problems but I tried drilling two 5/8" holes in the plexiglass side of the reactor. I started with small pilot holes, no problem, but when I went up to 1/4" I started to get chipping of the plastic. This started to get me concerned. I went up to 1/2" and it really started to chip on the surface. It  then started to catch onto the sides of the hole and yank the reactor from my grasp. This flung the reactor on the floor.

I then talked to someone who designs plexiglass objects here in Illinois and he said they use special type bits to drill into plexiglass. Apparently they have a different cutting angle on them. He also said that he uses soap to lubricate the drill bit as it cuts. So I ordered the drill bit I need last week and it still has not come in yet. So again, another problem and another difficulty to overcome. As soon as the 5/8" drill bit comes in I will drill out the holes, insert the rubber stoppers with the electrodes in them, refill and reseal the reactor. Then that should solve my leak problem.

This has been a difficult road, but I am overcoming problems as they pop up. Some of them have been tricky.

Please have patience with me. I won't be posting if there is nothing relevant to post.

Thanks for your interest.

[Davetech]

@RR2   Very good to hear from you. 

I wish you had a Dremel tool. It is a little hand-held drill, better ones have variable speed, and goes up to something like 15,000 rpm, I think. I have owned and used them since my r/c flying days back in the 70's. They can be found on eBay.

The Dremel is great for fabricating with plastics. If you use the little carbide treated milling bit, you can run the speed up and melt your plastic how ever you want it, using very little pressure. The little bit of melted plastic that gets left on the edges is easily removed after it cools, with a fingernail.

There are many other attachments available for the Dremel, but perhaps the most useful are the little "zizz-wheel" cutoff blades. They will cut right through most metals, even SS bolts. Safety goggles are a must, because the thin blades are prone to break if they hang up, but they are dirt cheap, so no biggie there.

If you have a cheap soldering iron, you might try melting the holes with it.

I wish we lived closer together. I'd be glad to do your fabrication work.