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Overunity Machines Forum



SM expose'

Started by HEYDUDE, August 02, 2008, 10:44:58 AM

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0 Members and 25 Guests are viewing this topic.

wattsup

@HD

I've tried the Rotoverter with many motor combos. No way. As soon as you start loading the prime mover, it stalls, creates alot of heat. Also very noisy. Also did RV with gearing systems, again, prime mover stalls. The only one who will have a fighting chance at prime mover / generator combos is Jack Hildenbrand who decided to make his own motor design and who should be getting his patent on it very soon thanks to guys on this forum who chipped in to help him out. Cross your fingers. Anything using standard, already non-efficient motors and generators will not work - in my book at least and the book cost multi-multi-thousands of dollars in motors, tests, time, you name it. Hey, otherwise packaged systems would be on the market already.

In the motor driven systems, the only one I did not try yet was the Chas Campbell flywheel set-up. I had proposed an alternate to this called the 3,6,9 wheel. Geez I was going to do this at the start of the year but things just kept happening and had worked on so many other types of set-ups. And I'll have to admit I am sort of tired of working with motors and gears, etc. Heavy, noisy and always ready to send you flying with a big flyback if you make a mistake in your start-up or stopping procedures. Mainly a pain. The most dangerous are the DC motors. I went up to 5hp. On the ac side I went up to 10hp with a 20hp generator.

Well the only other system that has in my view a good chance is Handyguys' Thingamajigger. Simple, but still noisy, but it works. I wonder if it could be done without magnets and without movement. That design would have the best chance of working as a motionless generator because it works without such a close coupling between the magnet and outer coils. I wonder where he is these days. I am surprised that there are not more people trying his design or variations of it.

Oh yeh, concerning power factor, I used to have a company in Canada that sold a whole line of Electronic Power Factor Correction systems that was patented then licensed by NASA to a few USA makers. I used to sell these to industry. The controls basically chopped off a percentage of the sine wave, proportional to the required load. Low loads, more chop, high loads less chop. But the main idea was not only to save electricity watt by watt, but most importantly to keep down the multiplication factor that will show the maximum power drawn in any 20 minute period during the month. This multiplication factor would then be used to multiply the total monthly watts used. So one wrong move during the month and you're paying much more. That's where the real savings were back then.

TheOne

Quote from: sirmikey1 on August 25, 2008, 07:01:16 AM
Orbs,

   These below may help you to realize that maybe
it's just static energy and leaked waste energy in our
atmosphere, nothing else. The evaporation of water
for instance; along with radio and high voltage signals.

Free Energy, 90v, 200ma, 13watts (many in parallel)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kdup42Epq0o

Free Energy, 20volts, 27ma from an antenna
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pc2dfBDFn5s

Free Energy, 2v to 3.5v from antenna
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRPE6OG7Mp0

I try this schematic, big 1/4" rod with 26" of coil using 18G, blacktape between the wire and rod, now my result.

I tried with an inverter and the wall socket. Both give me the same result, but not like the one on youtube. Since my wire is
different it could be the problem.

If the plug is not connected, I get nothing. When connected my volt meter result give -28mv and 28mv, well its oscillate from this 2 values. Since i cannot do anything with this voltage I am not sure how to measure the ohm from it, using a small resistor, Its seam to be higher then 10A because my meter show 1, so its hard to know what is going on exactly....

I will need a real amp meter one day!

sirmikey1

TheOne,

    I think that you may be using insulated wire for your
coil instead of magnetic wire.   Try magnetic wire, and
make sure that your brass tube is hot, and insulated
on both ends to the touch.

http://images.google.com/images?q=MAGNETIC+WIRE

SIRMIKEY1

 

TheOne

Hum my wire is like inside is copper and insulated with a tin red layer of enamel, is that magnet wire?

HEYDUDE

Wattsup

Thanks for your input. I kinda felt things would go to hell when you load the motor. Running a motor with no load or very small load is whole different story, compared to full load. The videos are a bit misleading to be kind.

I was once called in as a consultant to solve a peak demand problem. Synchronization over time of contactors driving large kilns banged the electric meter and many $$$ in peak demand charges.

Thanks for your input BTW how do you feel about Daniel Pomerlou now that some time has passed.