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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 94 Guests are viewing this topic.

electricme

@ Cap-Z

so bill is drinkin from his caps, ha ha, thanks mate, boy ama I tired, will answer this prop 2 morra

jim
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.

Cap-Z-ro

Quote from: timmy1729 on January 08, 2009, 09:10:14 AM
Just from using my 10v 2200uF cap across the LED on my JT, I think that it may have more to do with the cap than the LED. I think this because this cap will take a minute or two to totally be unable to produce light once the battery is removed. My 50v 47uF discharges and the LED goes out immediately. I could be completely wrong because I really do not understand much about this yet, but that's my own observation, for what it's worth  ;D


The is still much to be explored in the cap/led connection.

Regards..


mdmiller

All of your enthusiasm is contagious.  I pulled a toroid from an old PC and my first JT was born last nite, using an MSPA06 for the transistor.  It would go out after about 5 seconds so I added another 1K resistor (2 total) and it was running all nite with a couple of hi-brite led's, although after 12 hours it was dimmer.  With the battery lower, I pulled the resistors and just had a jumper which worked fine.  The toroid had an area where there were no coils from the bifiliar, so I wrapped 5 loops of soft iron enameled florist wire and replaced the jumper with this additional coil.  The voltage across the led dropped but the led glowed brighter.  I went back and forth between the jumper and the additional iron coil, no question it's brighter.  The voltage across the led dropped from .52V to .50V with the iron coil but yet the led was brighter, not much, but this battery was pretty dead and had less than half a volt on the DVM.  Curious if anyone is pursuing iron wire, as Leedskalnin noted "I can make more of the magnetic currents with soft iron wire coil than I can with copper wire coil"   -- thanks for sharing - Duane

AbbaRue

@mdmiller
Do I understand you correctly, you're using the output of an Iron wire winding and getting the LED's to light brighter?
MK1 had interesting results from using Brass wire. 
Iron wire is a lot cheaper then copper.
I wonder what results we would get from a JT totally made from iron wire?

These are interesting results and need more investigation.

@Pirate
Are you noting these results too?
May be useful info for your Stubblefield Earth Batteries.
Stubblefield used Iron and Copper windings in his batteries, both were insulated.

@DrStiffler
Maybe you can get better output results from your boards using an inductor wound from iron wire as the output coil? 


Mk1

@ Mdmiller and jonnydavro

Welcome , to this forum .

Jonny well done(thank to you Bedini just got better) ;) ,

Mdmiller tell me more i wanted to test soft iron but could not find any, i have a feeling this is really important. :D , I am a big fan of Ed.

@ timmy

The magnet wire is a covered wire there is a varnish on it , If you don't solder it it needs to be taken off to get a good connection.

I usually use a lighter and heat it. I hope this helps.

Thanks everyone

Mark