Joule Thief

[MrMag]

sounds like mr mag backs out ...  time to drop in the TINK!

No, I just know when to sit back, shut up and listen. You're doing a great job of finishing things up.

P.S. I shipped that Generator to you. You can ship it back. I'm not wasting my time to go to you. Do you really think I want to shake your hand after calling me those names. You are mistaken.

[jadaro2600]

Jadaro
My radio shack sells a pair of them for a buck fifty.
It is called a 101
I hope you can find it.

jeanna
here is the part number...
100pF 50V 10% Hi-Q Ceramic Disc Capacitor
Model: 272-123 | Catalog #: 272-123

$1.49

THankyou very much - I've had bad luck with the local RS, so i started shopping at a more professional store nearby, they carry lots of NTE parts, but few capacitors or inductors, RS doesn't carry any inductors.

I've so far, order from goldmine twice and not been disappointed - their 'suprise' packages really are always a surprise ...they had one 'random electrical parts', it was like 3 lbs of random stuff, had a bunch of 1.2kv capacitors, relays, 12 neons, a few microphones, an a bunch of other random stuff.

Their didode grab bag has like 200 something diodes, testing some of them with my DMM, and I can see that some of them only have a .3 to .4 volt drop, which will come in handy, ...

@all, regarding simplicity:

I think it is a great aspiration to do so, but the more I see people 'tuning' their circuits, the more complicated things become.

I notices Jeanna was adding extra inductors, ..you might try replacing them with an extra loop or two on the main toroid and see what happens? ..this may be counter productive though, ..I see you joined two toroids, ..there's extra space out there.

And Xee has been working on the 'linear' model on the other thread, with a secondary, I've tested this, it works, though I'm only getting between 3 and 14 volts boost, the dual transistor model is showing promise.

All of these circuits require common transistors, only a few of them are using power mosfets.

[Pirate88179]

IST:

Please post your comments that are off-topic in PM and spare the rest of the folks here, thank you.  I am always inviting new folks to join our group from Youtube, and other places, and I would really hate for them to come here and see this last batch of posts of yours.

@ Tink:

There is an ignore feature, it is in your messaging preferences.  It is a little confusing in that it looks like you will just be ignoring pm's but it also blocks every post of whomever you put on your list, in every topic.

@ Freepow:

Yes, it is always possible to have less amp draw then an LED is rated for when using a JT circuit.  That is part of the beauty of this circuit.  I may be wrong but a large part of that comes from the fact that it is not "on" all of the time.  It is flashing on/off so fast your eyes see it as on all the time.  If you make a tank circuit you can get your amp draw way lower than you have it now with the same led.  One thing I have found with those ultrabright leds is that, the 265,000 MCD, which actually has 5 chips on it, is brighter than the 26,000 MCD LED but now that much brighter.  I don't use those much anymore as the 5 chip led appears only maybe 10% brighter but at much too high a cost in energy.  If you think about it, without doing anything fancy, you can run 5 26,000 MCD LEDs for less energy than you can run one of those big ones.  You will have a lot more light this way, in my experience.

I hope this helps.  Jeanna and the others can explain to you what you need for a tank circuit.

Bill

[innovation_station]

IST:

Please post your comments that are off-topic in PM and spare the rest of the folks here, thank you.  I am always inviting new folks to join our group from Youtube, and other places, and I would really hate for them to come here and see this last batch of posts of yours.

@ Tink:

There is an ignore feature, it is in your messaging preferences.  It is a little confusing in that it looks like you will just be ignoring pm's but it also blocks every post of whomever you put on your list, in every topic.

@ Freepow:

Yes, it is always possible to have less amp draw then an LED is rated for when using a JT circuit.  That is part of the beauty of this circuit.  I may be wrong but a large part of that comes from the fact that it is not "on" all of the time.  It is flashing on/off so fast your eyes see it as on all the time.  If you make a tank circuit you can get your amp draw way lower than you have it now with the same led.  One thing I have found with those ultrabright leds is that, the 265,000 MCD, which actually has 5 chips on it, is brighter than the 26,000 MCD LED but now that much brighter.  I don't use those much anymore as the 5 chip led appears only maybe 10% brighter but at much too high a cost in energy.  If you think about it, without doing anything fancy, you can run 5 26,000 MCD LEDs for less energy than you can run one of those big ones.  You will have a lot more light this way, in my experience.

I hope this helps.  Jeanna and the others can explain to you what you need for a tank circuit.

Bill

IS THAT SO .... 


shall i remind you too!   

BILL when did you  start this topic  how and why ...  ?   young effect .. right !   yea thought so ... 

and b4 than i had this all done long time...... thank you ...

i have SHARED MY WORK  THANK YOU ! 

why dont you share MORE OF YOUR WORK!   LOL 

oops ... ALREADY PAST MOST OF IT EH?


the clowns can ONLY RIPP SOMEONE OFF SO LONG ...  then he startes to tell a little more ...

hummmmm

cold zap a cap to a coil 2 open ends ...    STUDY THE RESULT!


W815H

[jeanna]

        My question is this... My Super Bright LED is rated at 100mA draw current, and I want to try and light
        it at the brightest I can get it and at the same time drawing the least current from my AA-battery.

        As you can see from the data up top, a 14,14 Bif wound toroid was drawing 54.6 mA from my battery,
        but at 18,18 Bif wound toroid it was drawing 40.6 mA from my battery, and the LED seemed just as
        bright with either wound toroid.

        Is it possible to light an LED very brightly while drawing lesser current than what its rated at ??
        would you need higher voltage so you can lessen the current it draws ?
       

Freepow,
The answer is yes.
I agree with what Bill has to say.

There are many more ways to light a led than with amps draw.

The reason for the secondary is that it is a way around the amps draw problem.

I have always been able to get a good oscillation from 2 different kinds of windings.
This is a hard thing to say.

I mean that while I get great results with the 11T,11T when using the tor-23, I can get the same or much better results when winding that toroid with 5T,8T

It is probably a harmonics thing and that is how I prefer to think of it.

So, please try to remove the turns from the original 15T,15T and see what happens.
My suggestion is to unwind the one that connects to the base first and check the secondary output and the amps draw with every turn .
Then unwind the coil connecting to the collector and check the amps draw and the output on the secondary too.
When the improvement stops then you can stop unwinding.
Once you are in the ball park you can mess around with the base resistor and when you do that you might need to subtract or adjust the turns a little more.

I cannot remember which person I recently told to use the Hazens1 method of turns, but I will repeat it here again.

If you can look at this symbolic drawing and see that it is a centertapped primary where the end of one is connected to the beginning of the other, you will see how easy this is to unwind and adjust the turns.
/////||////////    this is 5T,8T. I made 5 hash marks then 2 pipes which represent the wires twisted together in the center tap which will be in the pos battery. then the 8 hash marks represent the 8T and the ends of the 5T and 8T are what go into the Base or base resistor, and the Collector..

This is not hard or even tedious when done like this.
Just remember your pencil!

jeanna