Joule Thief

[sparks]

  i notice that people are using a resistor to limit the current through the base cirucit of the jt.  This wastes energy couldnt you couple the base of the jt through a capacitor instead of a resistor?  Create a series resonant circuit between the inductance of the primary and the capacitance in the base circuit.

  This text editor is messing up and puts a capitol A in and deletes the word following the letter a for me very frustrating.

[innovation_station]

fired up the big yellow and black 1 aa ... 

3.6vac 102.5khz at 12.5 db..  from collector ...  no connection ...  to jt

plus 10 other surprizes ... lol

oscolating ac and dc .. 2 diffrent places .. plus all fly backs and such as per npn magic maker ...



if i full wave bridge the  collector and cap it will be higher volts ... 

like 5vdc flyback ..  still enough to self run ..  lol

bla bla ... 

0 secondaries on it yet ...  i have room for miles of secondary wire ... quite literly ... 

ist!

and i still can load it and accelerate it ...  i would like to hit 180khz ....  ; )  and add some magnets ..  and A MAGIC FEED BACK OSCOLATOR ...

w

[xee2]

@ jeanna

Thank you for finding that picture.

That is what I have and the cap is 105 instead of 102. It is in the pic. It is a ceramic and rated for 1000v. The diode is 1N4007.
I do not have the 200uF at the battery, but that should not make any difference. This coil is producing 1000v without it.
The sparks show the voltage is coming out the secondary in a very steady stream. If you look with a lens you see this pretty purplish (uv?) color.

,
just no light in the bulb.
thanks,

jeanna
OH

So, that is why you wanted a second coil and the ignition coil?
first, you took the secondary then you flattened it with the cap then pulsed it again to give the spikes you used in the end.
Is that the way you worked it?

j

Perhaps a single pulse will not light the bulb with only a 0.1 uF cap. I never tried just using a cap, I have always used the scr pulse circuit. In the attached video the bulbs are being pulsed with a 2 uF cap, so I know that works but it is really dangerous (please do not try). So I guess you understand how it works, but maybe there is no safe way to do it. Even a 0.5 uF cap is big enough to give you a very bad burn when charged to 1000 volts. So I think the only safe way to do this is with the scr circuit if it does not work the way you have tried with 0.1 uF.

Incidentally, I do not think warming the CFL will make it brighter. I think they are brighter when working from the wall because they are getting more current.

[Pirate88179]

As I mentioned to Jeanna, I have done a few crude, subjective tests concerning heat and my 18" tube.  After making the Pirate Light as seen in my last video, I remembered what Jeanna had been saying and I held the tube above one of my oil lamps.  I was very careful when I did this.  I tested the heat with my hand and decided to hold the tube about 1 foot above the top of the lamp glass.  I slowly moved it along the length of the tube and then, when it was good and warm, hit my switch.  The tube was brighter.  How much brighter is hard to say as it is totally subjective on my part.  The cool thing was, once I had it warm, I left the tube lit for about 4 hours and, it "seemed" to remain in the brighter mode even though the tube had cooled to room temperature. (In this case, about 69 degrees F)

My kitchen has 4 18" tubes in the ceiling using grid power.  When I get up in the morning, it is about 60 degrees F in my apartment and when I turn on those lights, they are very dim.  They have to be on for over an hour before they get to what I would call "grid brightness".  We saw this same phenomenon in my machine shop in the winter time.

I can't say for sure but it does appear that having the gas in the tubes warm up a bit does help the light output.  Now I know we are not lighting these the way the factory designed them to be lit, ballasts, amps, etc.  But this is what I have seen thus far.  Same thing with CFL's.  They seem to need to be on for a while before reaching full brightness. (on the grid)  Others should try this and report their findings so we can compare.

Bill

[innovation_station]

J

BUILT YOUR BACKWARD DRAWKCAB

COW GIRL TOY!


YOU ll  LOVE IT ... 

IT PULSES H SPEED ... 

IT IS A 13 W CFL  110VAC 210 MA DRAW AS PER ORIGNAL MARKET DESIGN ... 

find those caps .. I use... 

w

and DO NOT TOUCH IT ... 

K 

ILL MAKE YOU A VIDEO ... 

there diffrent cfls than i lit b4 thease dont get full bright  but this pulse nice speed ... 

this is from a aa ... 

i also shot you the sparks ..  CAP IS ALWAYS FULL   i can not.. not make it bang  i cant short it fast enough by hand ... to depleat the cap !

; )

for you  by me

and all you need to do is  remove the bulb ...  fasten to STAGE 2 ...   then lite many bulbs .... 

heck even throw it on the input of your coil ..  lol 

H