Joule Thief

[jeanna]

  Guys:
   It may be entirely possible that there can be  more juice coming out of a well tuned Jtc than is going into it....
...  I can't even get my analog volt meter to move on my devices, yet the leds lights are on, and the Jts are charging batteries.  I can't prove it though.t.

.......

........ No wonder we can't get off of this planet.
                                NZ

Hi NickZ,
In your experiments, please be sure to doublecheck your input by using a simple galvanic battery as your source.
In all my attempts to use these, the output has dropped precipitously, when compared with a AA or AAA battery,  telling me that much more is going INTO the circuit from a battery than the ampmeter can read.

The timed battery drain experiments I did verify that there is information missing when relying on the ampmeter, also.

IMO, the best direction for using the wasted battery power will be in placing other inductors and capacitors in and around the circuit to capture and re-use what is there, because it is a lot more than it seems.

Of course,
I am still happily using 4 or 5 jtc's for all the light I need in my camper, and the recharge is so easily done, that I think everyone should use this circuit to light their houses, but the drain from the battery is at least twice what any of my meters claim.

=====

I will be making a new video that addresses this in an oblique way and suggests some kind of experimental re-direction.

The 'phyllis plant battery' finally stopped working after 6 months, almost to the day.
The magnesium anode is fine.
The surprise is that the top part of the copper pipe which is NOT in the soil, is completely oxidized... there is a thick green coating.
!

This means to me that the flyback from the positive side of the jtc, has been creating electrolysis and oxidizing the copper.
It may be a place where more power can be captured, and an important place to begin working.
Kooler has been doing something like this, and maybe chiliqueen, too.

I hope to have some movie making time next week.    so I can show you all what happened, but for now, this is all I have time to say.

thank you,

jeanna

[jeanna]

@Tyson and Observer,

Hi,

Please remember that I found that a conical/wound secondary seemed to self tune.

These are sort of directions to what I did:

I made the cone on a piece of cardboard, and wound it bifilar-pancake style (but not flat).
I wound some turns around the toroid as a secondary of a jtc, and connected the 2 ends of this secondary to the conical part.

The voltage difference between these wires was not very high but it was always a ring shape as seen on the scope. (No matter what the frequency was in the basic jtc.
It seemed to work best when the toroid of the jtc, was set over the point of the coil making it look like a mini wardencliff coil.

Even though the coil is covered in tape and really hard to see, I made a couple of videos in my excitement and they are on my YT channel called jeannacav.

I hope you try this.

jeanna

[NickZ]

   @ Jeanna and All:
   Thanks for your reply.  I'm starting to feel like Lidmotor, having all these little Jt friends around, each with their own name, and a different led light on them so they won't get confused.
  I'm trying to get a Jt connected to an 120v AC 50 led Christmas Lights set, now (made in China).   Hopefully I can get it to light up before Christmas comes.  I've separated the led light's lines, and connected them direct to the Jt's transistor C and E rail, but, it won't light, yet.  I'll get it.
  I also bought some Emergency Back-up Led lights, with 16 leds in them.  I'll be adding a Jtc to each one, to see how long they will last, running off of the capacitors that come inside the light bulbs.  I've already been using them at night as they come, but they only last for 2 or 3 hours.  Hopefully they'll last all night with a Jtc running off of the same run capacitor.  The caps inside the bulbs can charge during the day off the grid, or from a solar panel.
   Jeanna- I've got a 6 foot pyramid (1/2 inch copper tube  frame), and some joule thiefs.  Do you think there is a way to connect them together?
                                     Nick
   

[jeanna]

   @ Jeanna and All:
   Thanks for your reply.  I'm starting to feel like Lidmotor, having all these little Jt friends around, each with their own name, and a different led light on them so they won't get confused.

I'm trying to get a Jt connected to an 120v AC 50 led Christmas Lights set, now (made in China).   Hopefully I can get it to light up before Christmas comes.  I've separated the led light's lines, and connected them direct to the Jt's transistor C and E rail, but, it won't light, yet.  I'll get it.

There are probably 4 big resistors in the strings, meaning 2 on each piece you cut off, and one at each end.
In mine there is a 3rd wire to the ones with the resistor and 2 wires to the part of the string without any resistor.
If you figure that you need about 7 spiky volts per led in series, you might see why you are getting no lights.
Try cutting one string into sections like 10 leds, and try connecting both ways.
If that is still not lighting cut it into 7 and 3. Then something should light up and you can go from there.

I also bought some Emergency Back-up Led lights, with 16 leds in them.  I'll be adding a Jtc to each one, to see how long they will last, running off of the capacitors that come inside the light bulbs.  I've already been using them at night as they come, but they only last for 2 or 3 hours.  Hopefully they'll last all night with a Jtc running off of the same run capacitor.  The caps inside the bulbs can charge during the day off the grid, or from a solar panel.

I don't know what these are.
running on a cap for 2 or 3 hours? That sounds pretty great to me!
Probably, I don't understand.

Jeanna- I've got a 6 foot pyramid (1/2 inch copper tube  frame), and some joule thiefs.  Do you think there is a way to connect them together?

I don't know.
I was thinking along this kind of lines when I made my conical bifilar secondary, but I only got that to work when it was connected to the secondary already wrapped around the toroid.

Try a few hundred things... eh?
... and tell us, of course. 

thank you,

jeanna

[NickZ]

  @Jeanna:
   You were right about the Christmas lights.  I had to cut off every led in the line and attach them in parallel.  In series they would not even light two bulbs together, even without their  resistor.  I don't know why still.  In anycase, I soldered the individule bulbs in parallel. and they work fine that way. Quite a bit of work though, so  I don't recommend it to anyone. Unless you're bored,  like me.
   You can make the light spread from the group of leds in a set much more even (viewing angle), and therefore more useable. And some red and blue led bulbs can also be added to the group, to make your own color spectrum.  You can definately warm up the cold feeling of normal white led lights, by adding red and blue bulbs to the set. Very important point for me. As now I can now see that it's possible to have the right led color gradient or spectrum , even if you have to make it yourself.
  I can't wait to try the ultraviolet led bulbs.  Have you seen the Led grow lamps, they are a sort of violet color?
  Anyways, back to the kitchen table for me, I lease it from my wife, at times.
PS.  I feel for the Chinese guys or girls that have to solder all those thousands of led bulbs, resistors, and connections onto the Christmas lights strings, and put it all together with an 8 mode Ac timing control. Then sell it for 5 or 10 bucks.  'Cuz it might be me tommorow...
                                                         NZ