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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

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0 Members and 156 Guests are viewing this topic.

Artic_Knight

yea 20 mili seems to be the average for these units, ive got mine tweeked to use 15 mili and seems to be full brightness by eye judgement.

my thoughts is about the mhz matching a toroid of the appropriate mhz to this curcuit. how will that play an effect? if i remember right (correct me if im wrong) this curcuit is 10,000 to 50,000 cycles a second which is .1 - .5 mhz  i would assume someone has used a torried to match this freq range already?

im going to enjoy trying to see if it can light a florecent, my current toroid is 4 coils each 10 turn. the next one will be 3 coils 2 10 turn and 1 30? maybe... havent decided.

just so everyone knows my measure ments
off of my 4 coil 10 turn each im using one of the secondaries, its giving .4vac and 30mvdc at 8mah the draw on my battery is 1.3v at 15mah

this is some unusual measurements, im going to chalk it up to a digital multimeter not properly reading?
weird

on a side note, adding a cap in parallel with the diod does not work it infact turns the diod off... hmm

timmy1729

Quote from: Pirate88179 on January 24, 2009, 08:28:23 PM
@ MK1:

I was just rereading about induction coils in one of my electronics books today and it spoke specifically about ferrite toroids. (although not wound bifilar like we are doing)  It said that as long as the magnetic field of one coil breaks into the magnetic field of another coil, or coils, there is no connection needed. (Induction)  They said there were no losses in using them in this manner.  The book had a picture (drawing) of the magnetic fields around the toroid and they extended quite far from the coil itself.  I will have to go back and see what you did but I was thinking that we could put a secondary on a separate coil, or coils, and position them coil close enough to the primary coil for induction to take place by overlapping the fields.  Do you think this would work?  Or, is this basically what you already did?  If this works as I described then we could have several secondary toroids with different numbers of windings on them.  This would make it easier for testing purposes I believe.

I wound a new JT using one of my new thick 1" toroids and it puts out great!  Instead of the 1k resistor I found a potentiometer and used that instead.  I can turn the pot and the light gets brighter and brighter and then...it dims a bit.  so, I just back off a little to obtain the brightest possible light I can get.  One thing I noticed is that when I go too far and the light begins to dim, something in the circuit emits a very high freq. sound just like the Fuji circuit does.  I don't know what this means.  When I back off and the light brightens, the sound is barley audible. I have also made a circuit with 3 supercaps on my breadboard that run the leds for some time.  I want to make a video showing that, all I have to do is touch my battery + to the breadboard power input for less than a second, and the leds light up for about a minute.  when I use 2 leds, they just go out when they run out of power.  When I use one led, it begins to flash on and off like Jeanna's was doing and will do this for sometime even though I only charged the caps for less than 1 second.  I am trying to think of a way to demonstrate this in a video and then I will make one.

@ ArticKnight:

I did not see any posts from you that were harsh in any way.  Don't worry about it and keep experimenting and posting.  You device sounds fascinating.  I can't wait to see it.

@ Jim:

Have you had a chance to play with your large toroid yet?  I'll bet that baby can hold some wire.  When I get some more money in, I would like to get one as well.  Might be a little while though.

Bill

Yeah, my 1.125" outer diameter toroid is my more powerful one. It is busy being wound with a pickup coil right now. That is a pain to wind! I can use a Darlington on my big one and I just got a TIP3055 to see if I can get some more juice out of this thing!

jeanna

Quote from: Artic_Knight on January 25, 2009, 04:52:45 PM
yea 20 mili seems to be the average for these units, ive got mine tweeked to use 15 mili and seems to be full brightness by eye judgement.

my thoughts is about the mhz matching...

this is some unusual measurements, im going to chalk it up to a digital multimeter not properly reading?
weird

I don't know if we actually know what the frequency is. I asked a while ago, but I don't remember an answer.

The value of the resistor on the base of the transistor supposedly determines the frequency. I believe that is right, but even on the video that showed it on the scope, the author never actually said what the frequency was.

You simply cannot take measurements off the secondary with your dmm.

MK1 devised a way to see the voltage, by using what is essentially a wheatstone bridge.

I was confused about it for a long time. You take the measurements of the secondary across the bridge rectifier while it is running from the battery, but without anything else running off those wires. It is just a way he devised to tell what the volts are across the secondary wires. AND, btw, the voltage is different in each direction. It appears this is really an ac item, and the voltage of the 2 directions added together is the total voltage.

The amps draw seems to be too negligable to test. you have 15 milliamps. cool. I found it remained the same, no matter how many turns or leds.

We can not at this point compare our numbers with each other. These numbers are going to change from one of us to another because we are using different components. And this makes a difference.

So, make the tests keeping in mind that you are comparing numbers to your own numbers.

When we get a lot of these internal comparisons, we will be able to see the patterns.

Thank you, (I have always appreciated your enthusiasm)

jeanna

sparks

@MK1

     The Jule thief is at the very least displaying the possiblities of efficient storage and transfer of energy.  The jule thief gets the voltage up and the frequency up and from there you can go out to play.  The designers of the circuit wanted the most bang for the buck on input energy so there you go.  How high a frequency and voltage can ya go.  Tesla went up to millions of volts and 100,000 of cycles.
used in a resonant cavity with cops in the thousands.   
    This Jule thief is opening up peoples minds.  I see people getting solar panels to power these little jewels.  Hooking into Earth batteries.  Minny windmills,  all sorts of low voltage dc scources out there.  I see huge thermocouples of simple design responding to different heat waves generating voltage that the jewel thief can amplify for us.
    This of course begs the question why hasn't the power company thought of this.
Believe me they have.  They have been converting to highfrequency highvoltage pulsed dc for a long time on their transmission trunks because that's on their side of the meter.  Imagine a voltage multiplier a thousand miles long.  How much input voltage do you need to getta little action out the wall.
Think Legacy
A spark gap is cold cold cold
Space is a hot hot liquid
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Artic_Knight

hey has anyone seen the Frequency refridgerator?  this guy uses something like a piezzo electric and sends it a certain frequency that litterally freezes the metal!

i dont have a link but i seen it on tv, rather nice.