Joule Thief

[rensseak]

Thanks for the quick replies.
Removing the LED and putting it in the pickup-circuit does not light it up, multimeter reading is 0.00 Volt
in that circuit. So it seems that these cores do not allow the magnetism to flow like in a real ferrite core.
Only explanation that i have until now. Gotta get hold of some real ferrite.
EDIT: MK1 !!! That is worth to check out what happens with a rectifier. Thanks for the hint will try it now.

EDIT2: Bridge Rectifier did not help, still 0.00 Volts, its gotta be the core.

Hi xenomorphlabs,

it is not the core u use. For me it works with that kind of core and even the original windings. So i think your connections are somehow wrong. Check it out.

regards
Norbert

[jeanna]

Hi Jeanna .  ok i take a tiny pot   the middle leg is the wiper . i put My cap 86pf across the entire resistor of the pot itself . then i use one  or the other end and the middle leg or the wiper . I keep a Small value resistor on the base at all times before the pot so i don't put a cap on the base at all . there is a resistor on the base then My cap /pot setup to the coil . Make since ?

OH, I see, you kind of split it. there is always a resistor at the base then there is this cap||resistor combo which you adjust. But the cap || resistor is the resonant circuit here. a bit of a tank circuit when you see the end of the coil right next to it, isn't it?

Seeing this as a tank circuit now makes it make a lot of sense.

I see. wow.

---

I was just finding a resonant spot at about 3k with 104 cap and 7k54r with the 103. I took the resistor away from the battery spot to have a look at it with the real juice and I saw what you were describing . As I turned the pot, the light went dimmer for a while then suddenly jumped higher. Corse, so did the amps when I checked back with that 10r resistor.. (It is a lot of fumbling. ) I also noticed that at this sweet spot, there was a marked change in the amperage when I put my hands on the pot. In the end I held it with my fingernails then dropped it to check. I think this was just at that spot. It is very sensitive there. Sometimes I turned the pot and watched the light sometimes I watched the amps.so I think it only happened there.

Egads sooo many things to watch and think about!!

fun.

thanks,

jeanna

I will set up a tank. That does make more sense.

I am now using a 5+5 bif with 50 turns secondary. It is nice to have some room inside the core.

[Cap-Z-ro]

Hopefully these things will be ready by the time the j/t is fully developed.

Many great possibilities with this technology powered by a j/t.

http://www.gizmag.com/3-led-light-bulb-lasts-60-years-and-could-end-battle-of-the-bulbs/10879/

Regards...

[xenomorphlabs]

@all. Thanks for the input. I traced it down to a wrong connection.

@innovation_station : So the PC power supply toroids DO WORK !!! Hope  you find the error in your mag amp

After the rectifier i measure 8.65 VDC in the secondary pickup-coil WHILE the LED in the primary circuit
is brightly lit! A Load might change that, needs to be tested.
Big thanks to Slayer007 for that brilliant idea!

Here a shot of it, sorry for the mess hehe:

[gadgetmall]

@gadgetmall

I have the fugi circuit the way I see it. What do you think about doing changes to it in order to build the circuit that everybody will use to replicate your cfl light?
I

Jesus

don't know the schemitic is blowing my brain . .. i gave partially incorrect steps . i edited them out .. What i see it the BASE on my board is the transistor pin closest to the plus battery connector . when you close the battery switch it connects the base to the coil -thru the coil -thru the VR to the positive . the cap  best i can tell you is connected to the base on the coil to the positive  . Has anyone did the pot mod with cap and got very good run time besides me  ?