Joule Thief

[Mk1]

@thenop


I was thinking about a small motor , and making the switch rotor , from copper pc board , i was planing on making a drawing on it with a sharpie and put it in the solution , the brushes i was thinking of looking for old drill or something like that .

Mark

[jeanna]

allelectronics also has a toroid that's over 3 inches across!   Jeanna did you make a JT out of carbon?

Hi stprue,
I pushed quote so I didn't forget to answer you. I am sorry I haven't remembered yet, and welcome to this very active thread!

I haven't tried the big one but it is on my list. I hate to shop and put off even things I want. Oh well, my patience improves this way ( or something)

The tor 23 is the one. It is not identified as carbon, so I am not sure if you are asking about the toroid. I am about to report on 2 of these so heads up after I finish with replies.

Carbon. I used spent carbon from a brita filter in an earth battery set up and it worked well, Also it worked sort of ok with a carbon rod a welder gifted me.but that is another thread... we can meet over there for that.

I have tried to have some system. So, no carbon rod , just a charcoal toroid. Take a closer look at the cover of that book in those pics on last page. It is a very close up shot of the iron atom taken in the 60's by some special microscope. It has a familiar look, doesn't it?

@MK1
I have found that to be true with the 2n2222 also. I did this cuz I got the kind in a can and I wasn't sure which leg was which so I flipped it and both sides worked. cool. LEDs are working both ways with the 2N3904, so I wonder if it is also flip-able.

I think I may have missed some but oh well

@wilby, it is nice to see you again.

jeanna

[jeanna]

OK everyone,
While you were all typing this morning, I was trying out something I have wanted to test for a while.

This is what I called a piggyback a few weeks ago. For non americans, it means one carried on the back of another.

I wondered if the hay-wagon could give a lot more free rides.

First I set up a bjt using the one from the pic this morning. That is the 'berry'
the berry has 11T,11T with 36T2^o
I tested its amps and stuff

Then I took the berry's 2^o wires and tried two different things with them
1- I put them through a full bridge then into the battery rail of another jtc
2- I put them straight into the battery rail of another jtc.

This battery rail is the input for a second jtc which is pretty closely matched.
I just named it 'widow' because it is black and red.
it has 5T, 8T, 40T 2^o

There are 2 breadboard circuits.
Both use 2N3904
around 800-950 ohm resistor at the base of the transistor.

(I know,I know, I can get more bigger results with lower resistance here. This is a study.)
The battery is starting to run down. It is at 1.31v.
===
here goes:


I used the berry for the first jt

The first jtc draws 26.2mA by itself.
When the secondary wires are passed through a full bridge it I can collect 22 -37 volts in a cap(wow)
Also from the secondary, the scope sees 8.22 v with 1 wave showing at 120 kHz.
We already know this berry lights lots of leds 5 in series or 29+  in parallel.

[I also checked out using a 3 volt battery, but more on that later.]

Then I put the widow into its own breadboard.
This by itself draws
33mA with a led
38mA with no led
Between the secondary wires, the scope reports
11.5volts with no led
6.9 volts with a led in the bjt place.

==

Now for the fun

I put the secondary wires from the berry through the bridge then jumpered them into the battery rail of the widow.

The bjt led of the widow actually went on although dimly,
The secondary wires from one jtc actually started up a whole second jt circuit!!!!!.]
I tried using a 104pF cap across the transistor base resistor and it did not help with the light or it was not noticeable.

MK suggested I try the piggy back without rectifying and so I stuck the secondary wires from the berry straight into the battery rail of the widow's circuit, without rectification.
This must reduce the effect by half since the rail is designed for dc from a battery.

The light went on dimly.
I used the 104pF cap in the base resistor place and the light steadied. It was still dim, but no longer flickery.

Now, I checked the widow's secondary wires 2 ways.

1- through the full bridge.and collected in a cap it filled the cap to 1.4 volts (not much but more than the starting battery.)

2- Without the bridge the scope reported 0.51 volts between the 2 secondary wires, (even without the led and 104pF cap)
and the widow's secondary cannot light a led.

===
Oh, and with both circuits going, the amps draw was 27.8mA higher than the berry alone, lower than the widow alone.

After a rest, I will reverse the places of the 2 circuits and put the widow in first.
-===-==-

I am pretty happy with this.
That it works at all is amazing.
I think it will be possible to find an amplification.

I would like to find a way to put the secondary from the berry directly into the toroid of the widow to get its vibrations going without the effect of the rectifier or the battery rail.

Maybe if I put it across just the base it will start up the second transistor.
Then would I use a cap across the C and E?
Hmm starting to sound like Stubblefield.

I better take a break!

thank you all,

jeanna

I took a picture of them both  piggybacked lighting a light.

[nievesoliveras]

@all

Here is the promised graphic.

We need now to get the best pickup coil connection in order to get the most output.

Jesus

[jeanna]

Hi Jesus,

It looks beautiful.

I think L and M are still not right.
The 2 wires in the middle spot there are the primary joule thief otherwise bifilar windings. The letters L and M are to be reserved for the second sets of wires that make the MK2. So, the MK1 does not even have the L and M.

Yes?

jeanna