Joule Thief

[nievesoliveras]

from what i make of the right most toroid, you are showing a end to end connection.
it must be end to start

the middle toroid
the arrow is confusing, the arrow should be on A1
B2 should be ending under the toroid like A1
the way i have build it, all coils start and end the same, the arrow should be on the J labeled side.

i find it simpler not to end all the wires at same region of the toroid.
each coils start and end at it begining and are easily identifiable.


same here:

Yes, theNOP,
It is true.

The A1 and A2 on the drawing should be reversed.

thank you,

jeanna

If you look at the schematic included on the last composition, you will notice that the joule thief coil has A2 and B1 joined as the center tap to positive.

I did the same on the rightmost divided Joule thief coils.

If you see where the pick up coil J starts, it is the same as the primary coil A1, They start under the toroid.
If you see where the pick up coil K starts, it is the same as the primary coil B1, They start over the toroid.

The circuit and the real toroid must match and they are matched just like that.
If you want any changes, draw them on the composition and I will try to change them tomorrow.

Jesus

[nievesoliveras]

First the jt coil are used in the regular jt circuit way, you connect them if it doesn't work then connect one of the coils the other way around.

Now the pickup coil are not connected to the circuit in any way , once you are done making a mk type pickup coil you can if you chose connect them in series , i usually test the 4 ways they can be connected since i don't always start on the same side of the toroid.

To charge caps they do not need to be connected in series , on the mk8 i charge 16 caps fast without serial connection
if i do connect them in series i will only have 8 cap charged faster higher . is it more , i cant say .

First build and tune .

Mark

Thank you @mk1 !

I need to wait for the wire.  I will practice with the toroids I have using a string as @jeanna suggested. On that way I will know almost exactly the lenght of the wires that will be needed.

Jesus

[electricme]

@mikem_2au,
Nice to see you again mike, I went back a little bit and saw what you had written about the Joule Thief topic,  "be very carefull, very addictice" how very true, lol
I hope you are getting some good results from your JTs.

@stprue,
Has anyomne used a carbon rod? I don't recall if anyone tried this, if you want to give it a go, get a D dry cell, and remove the carbon rod with a set of pliers, be careful to extract it in line with the body of the battery, you might have to give it a gentle twist.

@Jeanna,
Thankyou for the photo of "The Bad Blue" (TBB) this might catch on ha ha, if a magnet can affix itself to the side of TBB torid then it can absorb a magnetic field which can be used.

@all and especially to Jeanna,
I think I just may have a "new" way we can utilise the Torids.
I was looking at Jeannas photo she posted on P480, look for DSCF4744.jpg

There was a "bar" inserted inside the JT, then I thought, why has she put a magnet (my assumption) inside the torid?
Then I went and got all my Neos Magnets and 2 large torids and placed 4 neos between 2 torids, jpg is here/below to show you.

Now instantly I thought, wind a JT bifilar around the magnets, wind a secondary on the two torids and see what happens.

I havent done this yet, got more thinking to do.

Then I did something else. I got a heep of other torrids and connected them in a magnetic chain so to speak, they all held together.

Nice, so what now? what would I get if I would a secondaries on all torids and they are all magnetically coupled.

Get enough torids and one could make a daisy torid chain hmmmmmm time.


@all
could someone do an experiment please, cause I carnt get my hands in the stuff I need to do it, and this could benifit all of us.
I want to see the magnetic fields a torid puts out.
1 with only a bare torid
2 with just the JT bifilar windings
3 with JT windings and 1 secondary
4 with a MK1 setup
5 with a MK2 setup

Hold a torid under a stiff thin plastic sheet, sprinkle fine iron filings on top of the plastic sheet, energise the torrid take a photo of it.
Where the magnetic lines are concentrated, that is the best place to place secondaries, if the torid has a dead spot, then mark it with a permanent marker, so one would only have to do it once.

If I can see the magnetic lines of force, this will give me the best area to place any other windings on that torrid.

OK I had better get these photo I took an hour ago.
jim

[TheNOP]

@Mk1
there are different kind of brushes.

the ones in household device, blenders, saws, drills, etc..., are high voltage low currents type, 120volts 15 amps.
they will wear fast with more currents.

the ones for 12 volts device are good for more currents.
but, from what i have been told, they don't support high voltage very well.

the advice i got was not to use the 120volts type for applications that require lots of currents.
2 sources sayed the same, one is a household device repaire men(vaccum cleanner, blender, etc...)
the other was from a car electric repaire/rebuilder shop(starter, alternator)

there are also industrial types, but they are hard to find an cost a lot more.

[jeanna]

If you look at the schematic included on the last composition, you will notice that the joule thief coil has A2 and B1 joined as the center tap to positive.

...
If you want any changes, draw them on the composition and I will try to change them tomorrow.

Jesus

EDIT
Your picture is correct.

oops sorry.

jeanna