Joule Thief

[electricme]

@all,
We had a couple of people here a few days ago, who had a problem with seeing any output from Hazens1 HV circuit. (Including myself over the last weekend).

I mentioned I had taken my Hazens1 replication, in to Dalby, forgetting my red multimeter.
Upon testing, I also could see nothing on the output, and I came up with a theory that it might be the multimeters.

I was right, I'm back home and have made another test, lo and behold, my expensive RED DMM can see the output, but my el cheepo Yellow DMM cannot, it sees only 8volts on AC HV, whilst the Red DMM sees 230.1v.

Please see the photos, the yellow DMM seems to "load up" and wont present a reading, however the Red DMM can read the output.
I switched the yellow DMM to DC HV, there is no DC, the output on the red DMM begins to rise from 230.1 v to 297.6v up to 596volts

Both DMMs were connected in parallel to the output of Hazens1 circuit.

If I short out the Output leads, there is a TINY but very intense white/blue spark, a completly different spark if one shorted the 1.5v cell.
As shore as eggs, I ain't gonna test this with my toungue.

If anyone else has different DMMs, it would be nice if this DMM theory could be verified.

BTW Hazens 1 circuit does work, but, have we progressed so far along now that we all must look at very good quality instruments, instead of the old el-cheepo ones?

This weekend I will be picking up another Bench top power supply, Adjustable 1-30volts, adjustable current 0-2.5 amps

jim

[Thaelin]

@Electricme:
   That is it. I am not sure of the value it will get as I said. I still have no time to play. I just had to work Sat again. This really bites, I want to hit the bench for a while but not yet. I have a full week comming up too. Please let me know here what is the outcome. Thanks for trying it.

thay

[electricme]

@Gadget,

@ Jim Good Morning . Or night  Thanks for the Ideas !!and the r wheel!

The ideas and gift, no worries, glad I could help you out Al.
Morning or night, don't know he he, but it sure looks dark outside my window ha ha.

jim

[electricme]

@Jeanna,
Very, very true, you hit the nail on the head.

@NOP and xee,

So, what is the 5 watt tube using if you

1-and
2-
Is this for real?
What on earth CAN you assume?

We seem to be going around in circles.
On the one hand the laws of physics are used recursively to keep all assumptions inside the "Known" box,

(this is reasonable enough for trained people,)

and on the other we cannot assume that when we turn on a 5 watt light that we are giving it what it needs , which in this case would be 5 watts?

thank you for any thoughtful answers,

jeanna

In Australia we have 40w 60w 75w and 100w bayonet light bulbs (and the usual CFLs also, which we are being forced to have).

I found out that 10 years ago, the powers that be, decided to lower the voltage output from the power stations, from 240V ac, to 230vAC.
The upshot is, a regular 100Watt rated light bulb, will not now give out the rated wattage as is read on the glass bulb.
I'ts only slight, but it is so.

Bring onwards the Joule Thief

jim
 

[electricme]

@xee2 and TheNOP

your resistor example is truly what to expect from the watts rating of any electric componants and/or appliances.

but, to me, your first statement is somewhat contradicting your resistor example.
i would say : it can support up to ~4 watts without degrading too fast or blow up.

If I go to the shop and buy a light fitting, say for example a 100Watt light bulb, it will consume "more" wattage/current to produce the 100 watts of light, so it can give the stated output?

BUT,,,,will the same   100 watt light bulb take more current to run, 
if it is a bulb rated at 240v at 50Hz or
                             120v at 60Hz?

Remember, as the voltage is lowered, the current go's up to compensate for the lower voltage.

jim