Joule Thief

[Pirate88179]

@ Jeanna:

I have tested before and it makes no difference on polarity with my Fuji board.  I can hook up either lead to either blade on the male plug. (Yours are like mine, no difference in size on the blades)  As I posted before when doing the single wire tests, then it did make a difference on which lead I used and where it was hooked up on the plug.  So, since the LEDs are diodes, I am guessing that I have ac on the output.  The light level is exactly the same using either wire.  I hope this helps.  Nice photos.  How many leds are on that string?  It is amazing that you are not frying them.

@ Jim:

Great work with the scope!  Makes me wish I had one AND knew how to use it.  I am still trying to figure out a way to power my He Ne laser tubes with this circuit.  It may not be possible. I will have to google the serial numbers and see what the power/volt requirements are for these.

Bill

[jeanna]

@wilby,
I love what you did with incandescent bulbs. I plan to mod any I come across just the way you suggested.

These strings of leds are made without resistor or cap. The voltage is close enough when you divide the 120v by 35 lights to the tolerance of the white led.

I connected the ckt without the diode because it broke. I attached the pos lead to the - stripe side of the crushed diode.

I am wondering if literally shorting that spot which is I think what bill did, would be the thing that stops the flicker of the fluros. (or did I do that too? I don't remember)

Thank you, bye the way, for all your helpful comments.

@MK1 and Jim,

You guys shure have the good testing equipment. I approve of your shopping style, too. I haven't been so lucky.

@Jim,

Are we seing a complex ac wave form?  What is it you are showing on your screen? 

@all,

I did blow one led in one direction and 2 leds in the other. I mean... With the polarity one way - I assume the really bright way, I blew 2 leds. but when I switch plug polarity, only one led is dark. mmm crazy.

thank you,

jeanna

[jeanna]

@ jeanna,
Do you still have that patient search web address, the free one, please? I want to take a look at 381.970 that MK1 suggested. TA

jim 

Jim,

it is http://www.pat2pdf.org.   but I suggest you put those words into google for the exact spelling if this turns out wrong.

jeanna

[Mk1]

@electricme

If you use a single joule thief it would be best to go all the way around one time for the 2 jt coil,and secondary (output coil longer more resistance)as many coils as you can but don't go all the way around over the beginning of the coil it will cancel the output.If you want to make a dual joule thief on one toroid for pull push (for more voltage)you need do devise the toroid in 4 parts 90 degree apart using opposing coil (180 degree) for each joule thief and then winding each secondary over half of the toroid so you get the up and down push from half of each joule thief, this works with one npn and one pnp for pull push operations.

But your drawing should work if jt primes have enough turns.  The rectifier is ok schottky diodes are best.

The drawing is for the 2 joule thief pull push mode. So 4 wire for 2 joule thief and add 2 or 4 secondary over half of it.


http://www.google.com/patents  pat to pdf seems down at the moment.

[MrMag]

Here it is.