Joule Thief

[Mk1]

http://www.disclose.tv/action/viewvideo/18336/Energy_from_the_Vacuum_Documentary_Series_1_2/

[jeanna]

Wow, MK1,
http://www.disclose.tv/viewvideo/29990/Dr__Steven_Greer_The_Promise_of_New_Energy/
That is a fabulous find!
Thank you so much!

jeanna

[resonanceman]

@Freepow,

What the folks are suggesting is right, get yourself a DMM, I see you are an Aussie, head down to your nearest DSE or Jaycar or Altronics electronics shop, and take a look around there.
I have DSE Q1471 DMM which is my best DMM, look at Jaycar for the Digitech range QM1524 which is at a good price.
I also have bought several DMMs from Big W.

As scondhand Scopes are so difficult to get here, I suggest you shell out for that one you asked about previously, if you don't have any scope experience, it will be a good one to learn on.

I took a look at the digital PICO PS2203 scope, the cost for us would be about $491.56 and it was only a 5Mhz scope, better shellout that amount when you are sure you need to upgrade.

The Cathode scopes are going out of fashion now, so get a digital when you are ready, they do have many more features than the older scopes.

@all,
I broke my Internet Explorer, it is still broke lol, I had Firefox, took it off and then found IE could look but not post, so Firefox was reinstalled and I can post again, got a real fright.

SOUNDCARD snippert of info.
There are generally 3 types of input to the computer sound card
Mic  (microphone IN)    voltage is millivolts, 0.001mv to 0.1v
AUX (Auxullery IN)       voltage is up to 1.0 volts input
Line  (Line IN)             voltage can be from 0.0v to 1.5 - 2.0v

Some sound cards dont have all 3 inputs, some sound cards have many imputs.
Just depends what you want to do with the sound.

Sound is an electrical sig at a variable constant ever changing voltage, so measuring EB or Joule Thief outputs is just a matter of matching the output to the input of the sound card.

Most sound card input will be rated at 600 ohms, a standard unit in the recording industry, you can "isolate" the input by feeding it through a "matching" transformer, ie 600ohm to 600 ohm, or 600ohm to 1200ohm, or switch this one around to 1200ohm to 600ohm.
Depends how you feed it, and with what, if the output might get too high, slap a zenner diode across the output to crowbar it.

Now lets see if this will post ok.

jim

Jim

If you have a few minutes  can  you check out  this  scope  for me ?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170361338511&_trkparms=tab%3DWatching

I want  something   with  reasonable  input voltage .......... 
Reasonable  speed  ........
2 channels  is nice .


For  these things  it looks  like  with  most scopes  I would have  to pay  close to twice the price to get them all  at the same  specs



Am  I missing  something?

gary

Edit

One  possible  negative  of this particular link
When   I clicked on  Optional  battery ........  it  downloads  the  USB  manual .

On  another  site   a  similar scope  with the same   numbers  but  EDU  in front  of  the numbers     had  an  option  for the  scope  with  a battery .   it was about $100 more .
Kind of  expensive for a  battery .

[jeanna]

Jeanna

My 90 LED array  is not   powered  by  4  toroids ......yet.

I looked  at  the  original  electronics  a little  closer .
The LEDs in the  array  are  fed from 4 points
There is  a central  connection  for  all the LEDs in the center of the array.


gary

I wonder if the 4 groups are in parallel. I mean 4 sets of 22 leds each in parallel.
If this is what they are using, and from watching the behavior of some of mine, I think this is likely, you can very easily and right now make a 90 led array which is only using  a very little voltage. My general electric yard lights use a chip and not a toroid too. A timer chip is all you need for 1-4 lights. If 4 lights is replaced by 4 sets of 22 lights each set in parallel, it is easily explained.

Is your light made for 3 volts or more? I know you described it before, but I forget that part.

@All,
I am wondering which way is easier or more productive... 4 toroids or a large toroid with 4 sets of windings.

I am showing how to get around the problem of multiple sets turning each other out, so, it is easy to imagine that it can light a house.

Stubblefield showed that it can be done with a hunk of iron, but the material and shape of the toroid are so much more powerful, I keep on using them.
I did use a (non-galvanic) Stubblefield coil as a joule thief and it worked splendidly, so it is not necessary to use an actual store bought toroid.

I am now beginning to think that there must be very complex waves and powerful inductance (=energy) when you make a bifilar spiral of iron around an iron core. It may be the essential part of the stubblefield coil and not the galvanic  part. In fact, it may be just fine to leave the galvanic part out??

Sometimes this kind of thing keeps me awake at night! And kind of belongs on the bifilar specs page too!

jeanna

[Cap-Z-ro]

Those Disclosure Project links apparently cannot be accessed from this server MK.

I also missed your quad...for some reason I find I have to disable the 'notify' feature and then enable it again, and by the time I notice that the notification for 1 or 2 threads have stopped and I am way behind.

Thats ground I simply can't cover due to time issues these days, and I'm sure its the dame for others if their notifications also stop.

To quote a famous dead guy:

"Nothing to get hung about"

I've got another page range noted for later, I can locate your quad the same way when I'm ready to take a stab at it.

Regards...