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Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 125 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

@MK1
I have made a little change to your MK2 drawing to show how my wires are arranged.

I just saw your last post.

Please understand that this is exactly where I was yesterday when I began asking for help. I cannot make it like the schematic. My best effort which was this morning gave me a smaller result. The series wires were 108v to 111v but through the bridge as I believe you are describing gave me much smaller like 49v (I didn't write it down.)

Anyway here is a drawing to show how they are connected to get best results so far.

1 and 3 across the split, and 2 and 4 across the split. Each pair gives around 80V. When these are combined in series the total result is 108V.

thank you,

jeanna

Mk1

@jeanna

it seems ok , but remember the mk3 video of ist he used the same coil to light the led in one way and the other , only difference is on the jt light, one way its good the other its not , the coil in series need to respect that also , once done you connect one pair to bridge like the schematics. Then test the voltage you should get at least 150 volts .

jeanna

@MK1,

OK one more thing before I go and do it (again).

Please tell me what corresponds to AB,CD on the schematic. This is the question I was asking yesterday. (language is sooo difficult, please keep trying.)

This is how I did it already.

I will make another drawing for more clarity.

thanks

jeanna

Mk1

@jeanna

Maybe you complicate stuff , a bit . But ABCD are coils , you then connect them in serial pair AB and CD , that is done already , you told me you get 80v per pair, didn't you? Also remember the coil are polarized , not easy to see on cross wind pickup coils ! Since the leds work both way ! (ist mk3 coil video)

Now stop looking at the letters they are there to make a point of using coil from both sides of the toroid to make your pair.

Now to the bridge!

Mark

Edit The AC is for the bridge since it has 2 AC leg and a + and a - leg.

Mk1

Quote from: electricme on April 07, 2009, 10:02:23 AM
@Koen
I think you meant to say 10uF 10v cap compared to a 10uf 100volt cap.

Yes, I have been browsing my mind with this for some time now, how to get amps/grunt out of this circuit.
It is like putting 20 x 12v DC car batteries in parallel, to get 440amp hrs.

I don't have enough parts to make up a parallel triggering circuit, but in my mind I can visualise it, what I mean, I can actually see it, weird.
I believe I could do this 2 ways.
Use 1 big torid or use 20 smaller torrids
Use 1 transistor or 20 seperate transistors (Mosfets)




That is a direction i like !

Things to think about , First the cap charge time , someone told me they change depending on the overall charge percentage , if that is true then we can take advantage of it , lets say it charges faster the first 10% , then you get a one rated at 1000v the 10% faster means 100v after that it still charges then but slower.
Also recover time a quick sparks and the time it take to get it back up.

I think the toroid selection is really important it need high flux properties , and smaller then bigger , the freq is a major issue since more cycles is more power for less, and believe me i wish you all a good toroid like my green one inch,
and believe me there is room for more turns and pick up coils , i could go 10 to 12 on each side , all of of those charge caps fast , a 470uf 200 v get over 35 v in seconds , a 10uf would get 100v instantly , no kidding , i connected 4 of those cap and scared my self sparking caps .


Mark