Joule Thief

[gadgetmall]

@all . Hi . Ok i have been given some Parts for the earth battery and various know values of torroids from Greg at Alternative Systems. have a look . Our Goal Is 1000 leds from a special  Jt and Earth battery
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=3500.msg172636#msg172636


Gadget

[TheNOP]

@all

It seems that there is a race of how much voltage you can produce. That is cool, but it is not what we need now.
The race should be about how much voltage I can feedback to the source battery from my coils.

Then when you can maintain your configured circuit working with its own produced energy, you can use it to keep the voltage you have attained working for as long as the battery resist the process.

Lets race for the retroalimentation of the joule thief first.  We have the voltages attained already.
Remember this is just my opinion and I could be wrong.

Jesus

we are not at this point yet, at least not me.

currently, you will not be able to feedback to any battery, on the market, efficiently enough.
the jt does not have more output then input, maybe with the young effect, i don't know if it will ever be possible.


we have something that is working here.
what i want, is to upgrade it, be able to do more with less.

while you are dreaming of perpetual motion and ou,
i am dreaming of heating, lightning, my home, cook my food, etc...,
on a small 1.5 volts battery, without even going anywhere near ou...
it that sound more unrealistic then ou ?

Your suggestion looks like a good one, but I am not sure what you suggesting for me to do.

When you say
Are you saying to change the frequency by changing the number of turns?
Are you saying to change the value of the cap when you say get IT as high as possible?
Perhaps you are suggesting thai I should be reading the scope at a different frequency value?

be methodic, one change at a time.

try different caps in parrallel with your jt's potentiometer at the base.
look the frequency on your scope while sweeping the pot from one side to the other really slowly.

write down the cap values and minimum/maximum frequencies you can get with that cap.
also write down the maximum voltage and at what frequency it was.

when you have tryed at least 3 different caps, look at the data you wroted down.
then guess what caps values you should try next in order to get a higher voltage.

once you have found the right frequency for you core keep that cap and resistor values, then move forward.
try with more or less turns on the collector coil and pickup(s)

always make sure that, if the frequency you have found change when you add/remove turns to the collector's coil,
you must set it back to the right(found) frequency before measuring the output currents.
also for each turn you add/remove to the collector's coil you must also add/remove the same number of turn(s) to the pickup's coil before measuring the output currents.
when currents start to lower, undo the last change, then move to add turns on the pickup's coil only,
untill you reach max voltage, or, remove the pickup coil and re-turn it/them to the voltage you need.

Yes, and this is one of the many changes that are happening together that are making my learning how to use my new scope more difficult. (since I still can't figure how to see the dc of a battery!)

if you have a 12 volts battery, try this:
the horizontal trace in the middle of scope screen is the zero volts line.

the volts divide marker are horizontal small bars, on the left side of your screen
the scope vdiv setting set how many volts per screen divisions.
at 10 vdiv you might not see the trace move.
try on 1 volt per division.

connect your scope probes to the 12 volts battery and you should see that line going up or down.
if you remove the probe the line goes back to the center

What do you mean I noticed the frequency has changed too?
Is it this:
I have the frequency set to 2.4KHz. This is the space of time between the 2 vertical markers.
In one circuit the number of pulses is more than the other. Is that the frequency change you are talking about?

2.4 khz is the frequency, not a setting.
that is the place i want you to keep an eye on, the Hz values.

the settings on a scope are in time units, second(s), milisecond(ms), microsecond(us), nanosecond(ns), etc...
they are for the screen trace resolution, to help you distinguish the cycles.

frequency = [number of cycle(s) between the 2 vertical markers] / time unit

your scope calculate it for you, like a frequency counter.

[gadgetmall]

we are not at this point yet, at least not me.

currently, you will not be able to feedback to any battery, on the market, efficiently enough.
the jt does not have more output then input, maybe with the young effect, i don't know if it will ever be possible.


we have something that is working here.
what i want, is to upgrade it, be able to do more with less.

while you are dreaming of perpetual motion and ou,
i am dreaming of heating, lightning, my home, cook my food, etc...,
on a small 1.5 volts battery, without even going anywhere near ou...
it that sound more unrealistic then ou ?
be methodic, one change at a time.

try different caps in parrallel with your jt's potentiometer at the base.
look the frequency on your scope while sweeping the pot from one side to the other really slowly.

write down the cap values and minimum/maximum frequencies you can get with that cap.
also write down the maximum voltage and at what frequency it was.

when you have tryed at least 3 different caps, look at the data you wroted down.
then guess what caps values you should try next in order to get a higher voltage.

once you have found the right frequency for you core keep that cap and resistor values, then move forward.
try with more or less turns on the collector coil and pickup(s)

always make sure that, if the frequency you have found change when you add/remove turns to the collector's coil,
you must set it back to the right(found) frequency before measuring the output currents.
also for each turn you add/remove to the collector's coil you must also add/remove the same number of turn(s) to the pickup's coil before measuring the output currents.
when currents start to lower, undo the last change, then move to add turns on the pickup's coil only,
untill you reach max voltage, or, remove the pickup coil and re-turn it/them to the voltage you need.
if you have a 12 volts battery, try this:
the horizontal trace in the middle of scope screen is the zero volts line.

the volts divide marker are horizontal small bars, on the left side of your screen
the scope vdiv setting set how many volts per screen divisions.
at 10 vdiv you might not see the trace move.
try on 1 volt per division.

connect your scope probes to the 12 volts battery and you should see that line going up or down.
if you remove the probe the line goes back to the center

2.4 khz is the frequency, not a setting.
that is the place i want you to keep an eye on, the Hz values.

the settings on a scope are in time units, second(s), milisecond(ms), microsecond(us), nanosecond(ns), etc...
they are for the screen trace resolution, to help you distinguish the cycles.

frequency = [number of cycle(s) between the 2 vertical markers] / time unit

your scope calculate it for you, like a frequency counter.

Ou is easily obtained with the right control electronics and power sources . .....flip flop flip flop 2 sources  0 volt electronics .Yes there is such a thing much like a young effect .one of the keys in this setup is to oscillate at the lowest possible voltage and current . an example is  a zero threshold voltage n-channel FET .. These are new on the market and can oscillate at0.16 volts .. 
Gadget .

Gadget ..

[jeanna]

Nice goals, Thanks for sharing where you are coming from.

be methodic, one change at a time.

of course.

try different caps in parallel with your jt's potentiometer at the base.

I did a lot of that before I got the scope. I only found a straight line. More resistance, less light in the jt or in the secondary run leds.. Less resistance, more light.

I know gadget did this with the fuji with success. I haven't seen a sweet spot by changing the resistance. (I may have the other day.)

..

look the frequency on your scope while sweeping the pot from one side to the other really slowly.

What am I looking for?
...
...

2.4 khz is the frequency, not a setting.
that is the place i want you to keep an eye on, the Hz values.

the settings on a scope are in time units, second(s), milisecond(ms), microsecond(us), nanosecond(ns), etc...
they are for the screen trace resolution, to help you distinguish the cycles.

frequency = [number of cycle(s) between the 2 vertical markers] / time unit

your scope calculate it for you, like a frequency counter.

I don't get a number except in dB that might describe a frequency. I think dB's are amplitude, so I don't know about that.
I will look around this thing again.

I can set the amount of time between markers and the scope tells me what the setting is in terms of seconds and Hz. This is what you can see on the screen. I had set the time to 2.4kHz.

I am most likely missing what to do to get the scope to calculate the frequency. So far, the only thing the scope is calculating is the volts and some other things like rms and dB if I want them.

thanks for your help. I guess my biggest question is.
What am I looking for in the frequency when it is right?

thank you,

jeanna

[Mk1]

@all

News about the mk1 High voltage , dual 80 inch pickup coil , 850 v rectified dc its about 70 turns , 2n2222 with 1k base resistor diode bridge made of 1n4007. Any idea what i will be doing with this one ? And this is from a one inch toroid .

Mark