Joule Thief

[jadaro2600]

I heard it in a 'round-a-bout way that you can light a florescent tube with high voltage dc, however, the mercury vapor in the tube will tend to migrate to one end.

The prudent thing to do is have consistent AC on these, or, switch the polarity of the current every now and then.

This will increase tube life...  which I still fail to see why these things burn out, theoretically, they shouldn't, if they're sealed and made well, they should last as long as LED's or longer.

Perhaps they're design is a failure, but their principle of operation is a success?

[Pirate88179]

@ Jadaro:

My understanding, such as it is at this moment, is that the output from the JT circuit is AC.  Even if it is pulsed DC, which is still up to some debate, the trigger coil I am speaking of "should" output real AC. (maybe not?)

@ Jeanna:

Yes, I remember that.  all of my recent supercap applications with the earth battery, they are in parallel on the input side of the breadboard from the EB.  so, are you saying that maybe I should stick one of the supercaps after the JT and before it goes out to when I try to run the Fuji circuit?  If my understanding of what you are saying is correct, then yes, I have not tried this.  I never thought of that.  i was basically just trying to smoothe out the input form the EB which I am still not sure is DC or pulsed DC.  so, now I can try the Fuji off the EB with a supercap after the JT and before the Fuji.  This is a great idea to try! (If I have this correct)  Thank you.

Bill

[electricme]

@all,
My PC came down with a major Virus and Trojan attacks (3) and BackDoor Bots.
So I've been off air a couple of days, hopefully it is all OK now.

I was using Firefox, did a search for overunity, and when I clicked on the link, I was re-directed to a "naughty" web site, before I could get out, it had downloaded infected my computer. The PC began to go real slooooow, Anyway it's all fixed up, and thats the main thing.

OK, just to revisit resonnance for a second only, I have a 50Hz mechanical/electrical meter, there are a number of "reeds" which vibrate to a fixed set of frequencies, as the hz go either side of the 50hz, so the corresponding "reed" vibrates up and down.

Photo 0722.jpg = 50Hz vibrating reed mechanical meter.

Photo 0716.jpg = Yesterdays sunset as I was heading back home.

[electricme]

@stprue,
Thanks for your interest in what I am doing.

I have made a crt of the 1st experiment I did with my 7 toroid primaries in series.
There is no 555 timing of the pulses to the transistor, I just tapped the Pos wire which is in series between the battery and the 1st toroid. The Bat Neg or earth is connected to the last Toroid primary wire end.

All LEDs will not light when you connect the circuit, they only go ON only when the circuit is broken, the collapsing magnetic fields energise the separate secondaries which charge the capacitors and light the LEDs.

Primary consists of about 10 turns, put a few more on if you want to.
Secondaries are of 14, put a few more on if you want to.
If you have a capacitor rating of 2.2uF at 50v the LED lights on and off very fast
If the capacitor is rated at 1000uF at 16 volts, it will not light as many more pulses are required to fill the cap and light the LED.

jim

[electricme]

@all
I made a slight mod to my above post.
jim