Joule Thief

[stprue]

@ jeanna

Maybe you are shorting out the turns. If you have a real good ohm meter you can measure the ohms in 12 feet (or however much you used) of wire and then measure the ohms in your coil. If the coil is less it is shorted. It is not real hard to short through the enamel coating (I prefer using plastic coated wires for that reason).

What do you mean short through the enamel?  I think that must have happened to my on one of my Hazen coil attempts.

[xee2]

@ mikem_2au

I made a schematic of your diagram but it does not look correct. Could the 220 ohm resistor be on the base of the transistor as in the modified schematic? This would make more sense electrically.

[jeanna]

Here is what I will try today.

I had a very 3D morning thinking about how the MK designs work and the one yesterday didn't.
(The part that was so amazing to me was that it was able to stop the working of the primary, because the basic joule thief light stopped working.)
I realize that the MK is basically a center tapped secondary.

The first winding is A the second down direction is B but when it crosses the centerline and continues in the same direction BUT is on the opposite side, it is effectively the same as turning the turning direction and therefore the pulse direction around. So when the second side of B is finished and you come back to the center you are winding in the A direction, but since it is on the opposite side it is also effectively opposite to the original A winding. You can have as many turns as you planned and they are all wound in the opposite way from the ones they are adjacent to, but they are just like one wound with a center tap.

This should mean that if I take yesterdays thing half way out, then make a 1/2 turn and continue to the end. each wire will be operating in the opposite direction on each half of the toroid and it should do everything it is supposed to do.

I don't really expect too many people to follow this. I am very spatial and I can see it, but maybe someone else can. (So, I offer it here.)

I will let you know.

And have a look at the center point of this baby (opposite the colored primary wires) . does it not seem to be making some small change here? I don't know.

It may take another 2 hours, but if it works, it will give another option for winding to us.

@stprue,
I was thinking it might not be a short on yours either. So, there is no verdict yet.

jeanna

[jeanna]

OK
well, I added back 10 more turns 5 and 5 but after a twist in the wire which would make it turn around.
There is a tiny flash of the light when I put in or take out the battery but the basic JT led  still only lights when there is a 103 or larger cap across the base resistor.

I will put this away now.

@MK1,
BTW, the way Hazens does the primary works very well. I have used it and tried it against other designs many times and it does as well or better.

jeanna

[resonanceman]

Here is what I will try today.

I had a very 3D morning thinking about how the MK designs work and the one yesterday didn't.
(The part that was so amazing to me was that it was able to stop the working of the primary, because the basic joule thief light stopped working.)
I realize that the MK is basically a center tapped secondary.

The first winding is A the second down direction is B but when it crosses the centerline and continues in the same direction BUT is on the opposite side, it is effectively the same as turning the turning direction and therefore the pulse direction around. So when the second side of B is finished and you come back to the center you are winding in the A direction, but since it is on the opposite side it is also effectively opposite to the original A winding. You can have as many turns as you planned and they are all wound in the opposite way from the ones they are adjacent to, but they are just like one wound with a center tap.

This should mean that if I take yesterdays thing half way out, then make a 1/2 turn and continue to the end. each wire will be operating in the opposite direction on each half of the toroid and it should do everything it is supposed to do.

I don't really expect too many people to follow this. I am very spatial and I can see it, but maybe someone else can. (So, I offer it here.)

I will let you know.

And have a look at the center point of this baby (opposite the colored primary wires) . does it not seem to be making some small change here? I don't know.

It may take another 2 hours, but if it works, it will give another option for winding to us.

@stprue,
I was thinking it might not be a short on yours either. So, there is no verdict yet.

jeanna

Jeanna

I am very spatial too ......but  you lost me with this one.

I think  if  we  had   Spatial Olympics here you would win   




At all

I am  trying to   make  the  version of the JT that does not  have  a resistor .
I have  the  schematic   but  I have not been able to make it work.

Can  anyone  give any tips .......or even  an idea of how  far back  to to  try to find more on it ?

Is the  orange part  required?   


Thanks

gary