Joule Thief

[resonanceman]

Deleated   \\

Oooopps I pushed the wrong button post

[jeanna]

I made another non   toroid JT  today
It is just  a coil  of  cat5 cable ......I am guessing  about 150 ft
I  am using  one pair as  primary
I have all the  other pairs in series  as a secondary

Hi Gary,
I agree with jesus.
Is ther any difference in this except the non toroid?
The reason I am wanting to know, is that a long time ago jadaro made a non ferrite coil and I made a copy and really nothing happened.
They (jadaro's and mine) were much smaller than this cat5 cable coil

This is how I am envisioning this.

You take the blue and orange colored wires in the coil.
You put the beginning of one and the end of the other together and connect that as the center tap into the pos battery rail. The other 2 ends go into the collector and base at the end of the base resistor.
Is the pot with the red cap the base resistor pot? I am assuming so.

Did you have any trouble getting the 2N3055 to begin oscillating?

What is the amps draw?

This is cool.

I have another question for you about the LM1.

You mentioned to me that (was it ) Slayer or lidmotor? had simply used 2 spools from the radio shack 3 spool set as the primary bifilar. The added resistance from the thinner wire gave something to it and more...

Is that what you are using now?

If someone made a diagram for you could you talk them through the changes needed? Or, is it the same diagram, just a different kind of coil?

Thank you,

jeanna

edit add

I meant to include this.

I did a scope test on an old stubblefield generator last week. I posted some pics at the time, but I want to put the results together here because it relates.

I had made the generator with a straw between the iron bolt and the windings so if I ever wanted to take the core out I could. So, here it is with and without the bjtl and with and without the core.
I just plunked thi into one of my jt circuits I had on a breadboard.

I am as always taking readings off the secondary.
Except for the final one ,the secondary is a step down thick wire unknown count.

With core
no light
10.73v   57.1KHz

with BJTL
3.63v 41.6KHz

NO CORE
with bjtl
4.5-5v  7.57KHz

NO CORE
Secondary is a full spool of red RS magwire
35.9v  2.77KHz

So, what I am seeing is that this can very definitely be done without a core.

(NOT LazyMan, however!  )

I will help with a drawing if it is different and needs one.

jeanna

[resonanceman]

@resonanceman

Your job is excellent!!!

We need now a schematic of the whole project.
Could you do that for us?


will post this photo at the feedback to the source thread giving you credit.


Jesus

Jesus

What is in those pictures is my  attempt  at replicating  your  self  charger .
I simply made  it in parts so I could   use  the parts  on other projects .

The  schematic would  be  exactly like your  Improvement 1    except   that   I  used what  I had on hand ....  the transistor  is 3055   the  base resistor is a 100K pot
The  cap  is  1uF   
I  guess the biggest  difference is   that  I  used my LM  coil .   It  has   an 8 turn  bifilar  primary   and  a 300 ft  secondary ( one  spool of  red Radio  Shack  mag  wire) #30

This  is not  quite  self charging  at least not at the   brightness  shown
It  MAY be self charging  if the  power is turned all the way down


I thought about adding some extra LMs  for  flyback and feedback ........but  it  becomes  a really big mess .
To  show it  clearly  with  3 or4 extra  coils  I would have to lay it out on the floor .  It  would be  big enough it would   probably be hard to see the  wires in the picture  .
I am  trying to make it more compact .......or  fewer coils .....


I think my next  try is to  try to combine  several coils that I know  work  well  together on one coil

gary

[Artic_Knight]

this curcuit looks like it would not bee a good recovery curcuit. now i cant say this for sure as having a cap in parallel with resistors doesnt seem to do anything useful but somehow it does help. but the caps will be inclined to discharge to themselfs through the diodes. if it does work as intended chances are it will not be very effecient. perhaps if the diodes were higher voltage than what was expected to be captured? that should be suitable for something like that i would think.

i havent looked for anything yet but there must be a good recapture curcuit around here some where. ill let you know if i see one

[TheNOP]

concerning your: « Last Edit: Today at 09:22:26 PM by the_big_m_in_ok »

a cap store Q+ charge on 1 of its plates and Q- charge on the other.
if there is not difference of charge between the plates, the charge you will put on them is sayed to be static charge.
just like the charge you can see on any objects.
ex: combs, carpet, cloths, etc...

the way you connected them in your circuit only change them with the difference of voltage of each diode threshole.
ex: if 1 diode threshole is .6volt and the other is .7volt.
the caps will get a charge of only .1volt

what you must understand is that the B+ of the source is not always what dictate the polarities at specific places in a circuit.
ex: if a cap, for whatever reasons, is connected between a 1.5 volts DC circuit part and a 10 volts DC circuit part, then an electrolytic cap must be connected with the - side on the 1.5 volts circuit part.

the reasons for electrolytic capacitor to exist are size and cost.
i might be wrong with this tho.
but what i do remember is the one side of those cap have less surface then the other.

see my previous post on how i would connect the cap and diodes.
a single cap should do it.
connect the battery in parallel with the cap.