Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



Joule Thief

Started by Pirate88179, November 20, 2008, 03:07:58 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 149 Guests are viewing this topic.

altrez

@all

I just wanted to share a tool that I have used for a while now to check my figures. Some of you might find it useful.

http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/download.php?source=ea_calc_ad#assistant

-Altrez

resonanceman

Quote from: Artic_Knight on June 15, 2009, 06:17:46 PM
ive given this some thought and i think the fact that the wires in cat5 are twisted may be playing a significant role in why this setup is working so well. i would think that with this setup the coil is too large to be creating a magnetic field perse but with the wires twisted on themselfs several times it would seem this would provide a good channel. ... interesting setup indeed.

Artic_Knight

I think   you are partly  right .
I  realised that  a coil  of cat5 cable would  work  when  I was  tuning  a primary made  from a cat5 pair .
I  decided it was not long enough .........so  I slipped the rest of the coils  off the spool ......the LED on the JT  failed to go out .   
So  a basic JT  can be made out of  a 6 ft twisted pair ......with only one  wrap .......by one wrap I mean the end  comes around  and  connects with  the  start .......

I am sure that there is more  going on than  just the fact that  the pairs are twisted ,
I  added 17 ft   ( another twisted pair )  for a new  primary .
The new wire was made into  a loop then the loop attached to the outside of the  cat5 coil
The secondary  now reads  around 85 V  when  driving my  array ..
I do not see how the new primary  would induce  current in  the  whole  coil
I would think the  fields  from  the twisted pair would  be small and  close to the wire .
The new primary seems to be  inducing  current in the whole secondary .

Also .......last night  I  set  a  few of my LMs that were still wired together   for feedbackin the center of my  cat5 coil ....  it DID  induce  some  current in them ......not alot  but it was there.





gary

jeanna

@Free,
I searched my own archives this evening, and I found a few paragraphs from march 3 that will explain the fuji AAA circuit.

(I was at winter camp and came home for a few days, read this, copied it into a text file saved it and returned to camp. . I completely forgot this. Also Wilby made a nice annotation to a photo. I might load my copy here too,)

For now, here is that text file. It appears to be all gadget's writing from multiple posts.

Quote==========

There you go. http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/3609-big-joule-theif.html


http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6362.msg158838#msg158838

Thank you for taking the time to correct that transformer . I was wondering if anybody else caught that . It matches another transformer on a different fugi circuit . but in essence the connection are the same circuit wise . Basically remove the 220 ohm resistor  install a pot put  a cap across the the pot resistance and use one end plus the wiper  and replace the position of the 220 . then short out the Diode (theres only one on  aa fugi ) and output is where the HV cap was .. Simple . No ?
Best regards .
Gadget

--
later gadget:
---
Hi Thank you for the reply .good work on your Mod and winding that extra coil . its interesting that you said the Fugi mod is putting out what is putting in . thats two people that said that . there must be an error however its not mine at least on the mod part . the pictorial from goat works on mine . . You can get results If you simply change out the 220 resistor next to the transistor with a 5k to 20 k pot and short the diode .hook up a modded cfl to the Hv cap output with the cap removed . Stop there and you should have a gutted Cfl Lit if no then there is a Short .only go this far before you continue ! . ok   .. I have done My mod many times  exactly this way no problem . . there is a spot on the board that one lead from the pot  is soldered to and it will short if not careful Its very close to another connection .I have done this and found it shorted .. . anyways try that . forget the diagram for now just do the above only if you want to get it running .  . then proceed if Modded cfl lights .  If you find that the error is Mine please let me know on that Picture of the Lines pointing to the area in question .. Like i said before i just build them and try to do the best at showing where the connections are . I have used that picture of goats and have replicated it several times but maybe theres a slight difference . so forget the diagram and do as above first ..

Gadget ..
o you also push the copper contact down and solder it to keep it on  and place the CFL on the hv cap output .
--
Hey Goat Sorry your having a hard time with it . I have no idea . all your doing is replacing the base bias resistor . it should work the same as before you did the mod if you adjust it to 220 ohms . then all your doing with the diode short is changing the PDC to PAC . that Diode is so the cap will see a polarity and charge up to 300 volts . if you jump that diode the cap will not charge anymore because the voltage has no polarity . are you removing the cap ? . Anyways it should work exactly the same on the very first step and that's is replace the 220 with a VR . Stop there . see if it still works after you adjust that the 220 ohms if it does still work it will charge the cap and the neon or led will light . if it doesn't then something there is wrong . if it does work then jump the black diode . If its an led it will light still but if its a Neon it wont . you can check if its Hv with a neon . if it lights a neon it should be BRIGHT BRIGHT meaning it will fire a CFL . .. ok . Take care ..

Gadget
--
Quote============

OK for now,
I will post that pic from wilby.
Wilby's is different from gadget's.

jeanna

electricme

@Xee2
Before replying, I researched.

Quote from: xee2 on June 15, 2009, 11:51:24 AM
@ electricme

Thanks. The separate base resistors should force equal power, with slight variation due to gain differences. Adding collector resistor would defeat purpose of paralleling transistors.

Using resistors on the transistors base is a current/voltage limiting device so the transistor Base dosent get over driven by a strong signal. If the resistors are all commoned at the sourse, tells me it's to keep all transistors in sync. They all switch on and off together.

I have paralled 4 X 2n3055 transistors in my second adjustable power supply which I used for 20 years. A LM317 (adjustable transistor) output was sent to the bases of all four 2n3055 transistors.

Connecting load sharing resistors can be on the Collectors or the Emitters, it is usually the emittors.
Generally people follow the below circuit.

jim
People who succeed with the impossible are mocked by those who say it cannot be done.

altrez

Quote from: free on June 16, 2009, 06:37:12 AM
hi Altrez,

when i messure it...its like this.
when i put the needles of the multimeter on the 2 poles where the HV cap was i get a quick high voltage reading...this can be from 50 to 750v...this is only 4 a split second.
if i leave them on the poles...it messure zero volts....i take them off and put them again and HV spike again....but its not continuously.

thnx 4 ur support

Peace!
V2DAY

Do you happen to have another one that has not been modified yet? I would like you to just remove the cap and check readings please.

-Altrez