Joule Thief

[jeanna]

@ jeanna

A typo. Should have been "3 LEDs". Thanks for spotting it. It has been corrected.

oic.
Thanks!

The key to lighting the filament bulbs is kooler's neon+scr spark gap substitute. The energy from the JT pickup coil is stored in capacitors over a period of time so that the accumulated energy is many times greater than what is coming out of the pickup coil. To do this the capacitors must be able to handle the output voltage of the pickup coil. As the energy accumulates in the capacitors the voltage across the capacitor increases. When the voltage gets high enough to fire the spark gap (neons+scr) all of the stored up energy is released at once which produces a very large current. This can be very dangerous. To minimize the danger the energy accumulated in the capacitors must be kept small. This is done by using only small values of capacitance. I do not know how to help you do this safely. If you do not understand what you are doing you can seriously hurt yourself. Please do not try this until you can do it safely. This is the same principle that Tesla used to get large sparks from his Tesla coil. This is also the way the flash cameras work. The energy is stored in the big capacitor over a period of time and then released all at once to fire the xenon tube.

This is a wonderful explanation.
[I am not using the ig coil.
I bought a couple of scr's but not the same kind as kooler's. and I have not tried them.]

I have 2 candidate circuits for this: a 1000v secondary and a 2000v secondary.
The cfls I took apart have in them a 1000v cap.
I am assuming that a few diodes as the scr set up is enough to sequester the 1000 v into the cap for long enough to run over into a resistor.
This should provide some heat, because this is a way they are commercially designed. When they go on they are cold and dark, until they begin to warm up.

I just do not know the way to make this happen.
I want it to temporarily collect the 1000v then pass it along to the cfl such that the cfl lights AND there is some heat. It is because the cfl stays bone chilling cold, that it is not as bright as the same cfl from the wall.
I have not been able to get the unmodified cfl to go on even with 2000 spiky volts, even though I saw sparks hitting the screw base of the bulb.
A cap might help with that too, but again, how?

thank you,

jeanna

[jeanna]

All greetings, here my first acquaintance with Joule Thief, I did not begin to feed it with the battery 0.3V, and have poured in bank of water and have added 2 spoons small salts (or soda), and have omitted two wires copper and aluminium (or zinc), at first довала is not enough bank volt, after days shone longer and more!

I love your battery!
How did it get better? Mine always get dimmer as the plates get corroded!

Your joule thief circuits look good too.
I am happily waiting to see how the 240T secondary works.
It should work well too.

Excellent,
Thank you for showing these results with us.

jeanna

[innovation_station]

@ J

i used a cam flash unit ...  and a cap a bridge rectifier then a diode off

THE AC CAP...

it filled the caps ... in the cfl  then when full it pulsed! the  bulb

bright as pluged in the  wall...

so if you had a few cam units ... i see no reason they wont RUN A TV!

lol

: )

H

i have my 18"  all most wound up lol

i had to do laps  on jt as the wires would not lay as i wanted ... so i went with it ....  lol

7 turn  5 lap so far 45 deg... 16 ga

collector is 14 ga 16 turn bifillar


looks totally koolerizationable!  : )

you know when i was young  we were involved with shipping some rare harley davidisons to germany i have pictures sitting on each and everyone!

my fave ... was the rare dirt track racer!  only 1000 ever made ... 

im willing to bet!   

some that read this site own the bikes I SPEAK OF ......   
one could say i blessed a few bikes .... 

ask  where your bike came from ....

HANOVER?   

sure i have a few pics ...


and the friend that speakes fluent 5 languages ...  almost 80 years of age  now and still sharp as a whip!!

i know you guys know him !   

: )   

MUCH RESPECT!

MR. C.  FREY!

[jeanna]

This is at least 3 times the light output of my Jeanna Light replication.  I wonder how much brighter this would be with the 1,200 volts or so of my large toroid circuit once I get it fixed?

Very nice video. I love the mirror!


Bill, Are you not able to use this bulb in your jeanna's light?
Oh, maybe you soldered everything in place and cannot substitute right now.

Please stick a led at the C-E spot to see if the transistor is turning on at all.

Then once you know it is on and oscillating, then put the camera on it and turn off all the lights.
Maybe the camera will be able to see the sparks if your eyes cannot.
I am curious.
I have had this happen in the beginning. I am sorry to hear it has happened with the newby wire.

jeanna

[jeanna]

@ J

i used a cam flash unit ...  and a cap a bridge rectifier then a diode off

THE AC CAP...

it filled the caps ... in the cfl  then when full it pulsed! the  bulb

Thanks ist,
Did it WARM the bulb?
I am thinking a resistor needs to be there too so there is the warmth.

There is a lot of excess voltage which can easily be shown by the number of extra tvs you can add  , but we throw it away and never even realize it was there.
I want to use up some of what radiates out, and make warmth for the bulb so it gets brighter.

The commercial cfl bulbs have what is needed, and possibly it could be done by getting the secondary to attach to some part of the insides of the bulb.

thanks,

jeanna