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[Low-Q]

Hi,

This looks very cool. Have you tried to replace the 1,5V battery with excess power from your system? You need a rectifier and a capacitor to make a smooth 1,5V supply by itself...
If you're able to make this motor work without the 1,5V battery, I would be more convinced. Sorry for being a sceptic.

br.

Vidar

[nievesoliveras]

@nievesoliveras,

well done ! Congratulations.

Maybe you can try to put an additional
neon bulb between collector and emitter of the 2N4401 JT transistor ?

This will benefit your driving battery as it might not discharge anymore.

Then your 2N4401 JT transistor would work like a mechanical switch and when the
neon flashes it is like opening a mechanical switch where the neon plasma
feeds current spikes back to the negative terminal of the battery.

I just did that, but when I did, it seems that I broke some delicate balance that was on the circuit and the voltage dropped to 4.45v from 4.47v then it began to fluctuate between 4.45v and 4.46v.

2. Do you have your alufoil around the 16 turn wire also connected anywhere
or is this alufoil just unconnected ?

There are two wires inside the alufoil and plastic, one is covered in blue material and the other is bare. I connected after winding it, one bare from one side to one blue covered from the other side and that made a bifilar toroid coil center tapped. The alufoil is not connected to anything.

I also guess it could be an effect, that the alufoil might do with shielding eddy currents
or something like this from the 16 turn bifilar coil.

Does this alufoil get warm during operation ?

No, it does not get warm during operation. Neither the transistor.

Maybe the alufoil is really the secret over here.. ?

That is the same conclusion I had. The secret is on the alufoil cable and the toroid ferrite quality. Because without any load, just the discharged 1.5v battery, the jt outputs 15.6 volts.

[nievesoliveras]

I know just how you feel Jesus . You keep right on running that lil babe and enjoy it then when you get the courage Solder it up so it don't fall to pieces . I know how those little proto boards have a tendency for components to wiggle loose and short out on another leg and stuff  I would like to know the dimensions of your pipe you wound your Newman on please .thanks you and Well done My brother
God Bless and have fun !!

Gadget

Thank you @gadgetmall !
That same counsel my brother that came yesterday to visit gave me. To solder it permanently. But I will first build a small vertical wind mill with the motor as the wind. I have a small wind generator that I bought a long time ago and it never worked because the wind here seldom blows. That was what started my quest. I hope that I can finish it. Because I feel very tired. And now that I have it, what I want now is to build a crystal radio receiver to get the circuit's joule thief working with that energy instead of an old 1.5v battery.

Jesus

Edit:
Forgive me my friend, I forgot to include the pvc pipe dimensions. It is 4" in diameter, 3.75" height, The rotor is made with two 1/4" plywood glued together (that was what I had at the moment) and then I made the circle cut with the biggest circular drill saw from a door knob installer kit. 
The two magnets are 1" by .5" and when you try to put them to rotate inside the pvc they touch the pvc walls and wont turn, so you need to make two flat cuts at 180 degrees one from the other and they must be almost perfectly equal in deph so the magnets are balanced, hence they will be flying out of the rotor and possibly hurt you, plus they get broken easily when they hit the floor.

Jesus

[nievesoliveras]

@nievesoliveras

I would suggest that you leave the motor running and do another build to see if you can replicate your work.

Good Work!

-Duff

Thank you @duff
If I had the money and the providers were faster on the deliveries. Maybe I were not so tired and maybe I would not have forgotten the ideas so many times waiting for the parts.
The waiting is a killer for me. I am a man of action and in the meantime I wait I change my direction a lot.

Jesus

[nievesoliveras]

Yes, better leave it running for a few days, also without connecting the
volt and ampmeters to it,cause the wires radiate the energy away
and then better build a second prototype.

I think that I read this post too late. I did stopped the motor. The voltage when I stopped it was 4.43v Because of the neon test.  When I stopped the motor the voltage climbed to 4.63v and is going up very slowly. With very slowly I mean that it first flash the next number for a while then change to it at a slow pace.

And also try to use a real circuit board as the white prototype boards
are only for experimentation to change things quickly, so better try
to solder it all up. then you will also see,
if your longer connection cables have any influence or the prototype
board stray capacitances.

Many thanks.

Regards, Stefan.

I cannot solder the parts now because I am an experimenter and I dont have money to buy new ones now. So what I will do is to experiment with this motor an take photos and draw schematics in order to replicate it back in the case I use the parts for an experiment. I know that it sounds strange. But most of the parts used, were the parts of my most preciated circuit that was a small breadboard with four different joule thief circuits all working with just one 1.5v battery.
The only thing that is left from it is a group of schematics on a paint composition and a photo, the LEDs were blown on an experiment by a high voltage spike, the transistors were needed on other experiments and I hope that when I can get the parts back together the preciated circuit give a shinning light again.

Jesus