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Fueless Friction Heater Manufacturer Found

Started by Cap-Z-ro, August 01, 2008, 02:59:08 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

nueview

does anyone here know the angle at the bottom of the holes it was not mentioned in the string as a standard drill bit can be modified to produce alot of different angles i have the equipment to do this and is it that important.
next how deep do the holes need to be and how large in diameter do they need to be do smaller holes work better or larger holes .
i am very interested in this information what rpm to size ratio works best for what horse power drive .
does anyone have any of this information .
alaska is a high energy cost state so need all the help one can get this may be better than heat pumps .
have read that temperatures of 450F are possible this must be done useing some type of oil but would think it would be good for heat transfer unit will build this to test either way so wuold appreciate any help you can give to these points.
will post what i find allong the way in exchange.

Cap-Z-ro


Hey nueview,

By the questions you are asking it appears you have this unit confused with a water cavitatation unit, which also has an inner rotating drum, which turns water into steam.

This unit uses transmission oil and the rotating drum is smooth as opposed to the drum of the water cavitator which has angular holes drilled into it.

It is said however that other than oil, water can be used in this unit also.

Regards...




nueview

i have built several smooth cyclinder units with transmission fluid they heat ok but do better when air is injected into the system.
transmission fluid is water soluable so really don't see the point it is not real heat conductive as is water though other fluids are it seems that in these units heat is made at the cavitation bubble and if the fluid absorbes the heat it is able to be moved and used if it doesn't then you just get a hot element not really what i am after convection plays a big part in these units and have tryed many in an attempt to do better a double jacket on one unit did much better as it did allow heat transfer to the water really looking for some fluid that appears to be somewhat electrically conductive as a diode one way and conductive thermolly the other.
will attempt to wind answer in other group as was not aware this group was for those working on smooth cylinders as a passing thought you might try electro static plates as electrets around your rotor.

jwk

Hi Cap-Z-ro

I have just read this thread from the beginning looking to understand what it was you actually ordered. Im not sure if it is because the links are old or if it is my 'end' but i can't grasp how exactly this heater is supposed to work. Could you explain or post a link to a basic design please ?

Thanks

jwk

winner

@jwk:

The design is based on the Frenette heater:
http://www.rexresearch.com/frenette/frenette.htm

From what I've read, the basic design would be simply a smooth cylindrical "pot" set inside and exactly centered (concentric) within a similar and slightly bigger container. The two containers are separated by a very small gap which is filled with an oil. The inner container is rotated by an electical motor at high speed.

The claim is that more heat energy is produced by this device than can be accounted for by the electrical input.

A theory put forth on why this might work is that untapped energy is being drawn out by cavitation action, submersed microbubble bursts.

I have not seen any information that this type of device actually lives up to the claim. I remember reading at least one study on the Internet that showed this device really did not work as claimed.

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