First electrical power output from a Pyramid

[freecell]

Hi Thomas,

did you ever have test to take copper-tubes instead of steel-Cuppers for the Pyramidframe?

Coppers-Tubes and Plates are more easy to soldering as to welding the Steel-Tubes.

So i thinking about this point to construct or to test my Rebuild with Copper-Tubes.
If you haven't any experience with copper-Frame i start the rebuild with copper-tubes and tell here, if it work or not.

Another Alternative, where to rivet (nieten) the Steel-Tubes.

P.S. Es lebe leo.org

Greeting, freecell

[hartiberlin]

Hi Tigrotto,
if you look at the pictures at the beginning of this thread
it is getting clear:
The minus pole is only connected to the lower frame and to
the left output capacitor plate.

The plus pole comes from output E from my redrawn graphics and
goes via the other capacitor plate to the output.

This circuit makes not much sense in the "normal" logical
way in circuit theory,
but it might be just some kind of one wire RF energy transfer,
but for to get a DC voltage it would
miss the 2 Avramenko plug diodes...
Hmm. maybe he is using 2 dissimular metals before the last capacitor
which work with their connection as a rectifier ?

Otherwise I can not understand how DC voltage will come out of this
thing, if not just the battery voltage of the graphite-copper is converted up
in voltage and power output ??


Yes, Thomas, you can of course use my translation on your
website.

Many thanks again for coming forward with your explanations.

Maybe you can provide a few scopeshots also of the
energizer unit in the center ?
Does it resonate ? At what frequency ?
How is the frequency converted to pure DC Voltage at the putput
without any diodes ?


P.S. The graphite rods as I understand it must be just a bit wet via the
sand.
This gives also the best galvanic cell voltage, if the sand is just wet enough.
If there would be too much saltwater inside the sand, then the output would be
reduced, cause the sand would  not have too much contact with the graphite electrodes...

So maybe the rectifier effect also comes from the wet SIO2 sand touching the
graphite rods ?? Could well be... So maybe this is just a DC Voltage effect from
the wet sand touching the copper and the graphite...
As CuO is also a semiconductor and it could built up
on the copper surface, this might all be surface effects of the used materials
together with the "special" height radiation of the aligned pyramid..
So it probably depends a lot, which sand you are using and how
good the semiconductor properties it has and how much
copperoxid the copper tube had, before you filled in the sand and
the graphite electrodes...
So the used materials could be major important to get it to work correctly...

Regards, Stefan.

[hartiberlin]

P.S: Gustav Pese is right,
as the sand is hygroscopic, it will
"suck up" the saltwater, so all the saltwater and also the
graphite rods will be a bit wet... so if you
inject there some saltwater, the whole sand will
sooner or later be a bit wet...

Thomas said, the whole tube must not fully be filled with
saltwater, so too much saltwater is not good, but the sand
must be wet.

Maybe one could also already mix the sand with saltwater before
filling it in,but then probably the wet sand will not go well in between
the copper tube and the graphite spacing and there might be
air bubbles and holes this way..

Could also be, that it is important to let is stay for a while, so that
at the inner copper wall will build up some copperchloride CuCl2
which might help the semiconductor effect in rectifying the RF oscillations...

From my saltwater battery research I have seen, that with gaphite in the cells,
the graphite get never consumed, only the metals.
But sometimes ( e.g.with the durafix metal rods) the voltage just oscillates a bit
when the oxidation of the rod happens and as the metal goes into ions,that the voltage
will change a bit. Maybe this is used also here to start the RF oscillation
with the LC circuit ...
So this will really depend on many parameters...

But maybe there is an additional effect because of the shielding
of the copper tube of the galvanic cell, as the copper tube shields
all the electrostatic action as only the inner walls of the copper
have contact to the electrolyte... this might also give a special effect,
cause in normal copper-graphite saltwater batteries all the copper,
also the outside of a copper pipe has contact to the saltwater electrolyte...
But here it is shielded !

And
normally, if you give electrons to the inner wall of a copper pipe
they always will go to the outside wall, so there might be a
no "drag back"effect from the current...

so the current generation could
get maybe a smaller inner resistance and the cell could deliver more power this way ?

[Tigrotto]

OK guys,
It looks like we understand how to built the setup ( of V6), but I have to stress here on the "fine-tuning" of this experiment.
Some confusion was regarding the level of Salted-water.

I'll repeat: the bore in the copper-pipe is to be done BELOW THE END OF GRAPHITE ROD ( Thomas said 2mm).
Nevertheless, the sand being hygroscopic , will be still wet even 2mm above the level of the two bores. I think i'm not wrong.
The missing point is this : How wet have to be the sand at the level of the graphite rod.
This is why i thought at something as a fine tuning to overcome this problem whit many variables, and I KINDLY ASK THOMAS TO GIVE US HIS OPINION REGARDING THIS "FINE TUNING".
Do you remember: Thomas himself identified  ( see, please the end of stefan's translation!) as main sources of failure/errors right the position of the salted-water level.
The solution could be: A micromechanical adjustment of the depth of penetration of the graphite rod into the sand, or better : the fine tuning adjustment of the distance between the end ( low side) of the graphite rod and the position od the bore ( as refference!).
Identical , obviously , for both the two rods!
I dare to ask the authorized opinion/ advise of Thomas, the only one having faced practically with this problem.
Thanks in advance, Thomas

[Thomas_Trawoeger]

@freecell: I tryed to build the pyramide with copper-tubes, but it didn?t work proper. (I don?t know why)
As i changes the construction into wood, it worked absolutely not, because there was no minus pole.

I don?t know why, but it works best with graphite or carbone- material.
I use simple metal, because its cheap, easy to use, and good for power.

@stefan: It?s really a little tricky to mix sand and saltwater before you insert it into the pipes. So follow my description, wich works best. When you fill the tubes with saltwater, you will se a very bad effect.
(The pyramide will produce only very low power for aproxx. 10-10 min. This is because there is too much liquid inside. you can see, that the pyramide is pushing up the power after the first 30 minutes. After this process it?s not necessary to refill saltwater anytime!

@all: the DV-Voltage is not very clean. There is coming some very strange sinus, and it changes all the time. You can watch even some sinus in the Power of the Pyramide.  4-6 times a day, teh pyramide gives approx. 12-15% more watts for 4-5 minutes without touching it. The same effect is to watch on the other side. 5-6 times a day the Watts decrease between 10-20%
I don?t have any idea, why !

I will give you the time diagrams on my website, and i hope for some measurements wordwide, to understand this effect on different places. (For this, i will please the constructors for test with syncronized watches.)

I tested mor than 40 types of Quarzsand, and i will give you right in time the best hints. The quarzsand is not that important, because our Tests ranged only between 15-17% Power.
I think, this is not very necessary, because if the people see, that it works, the resulted power is not the thema :-)

The most important thing in the whole construction is, not to fill the tubes with saltwater!

To much saltwater destructs the pipe, and there will be a output equal zero!!!

Give me a word to V14.
In this version, i will show you a easyer construction inside, and i will show you to increase the Power with very easy Tricks.
V12 gives now 19,22 Watts/H - tested  aproxx. 21 Hours.

So if anybody want?s to start with constructing, please wait a few days. you will save money with material. But if you want to reconstrucht V6, you are invited too...

Very nice greetings to our reader JEROME. I clap the Hands for you, and I am very happy about your results! There is only a small mistake in your Pictures. I tryed the antennas, but they are only for a good show 
(We don?t want to make nice items here, the goal is to bring POWER!!)
I am really interested, why you don?t want to write in this Forum. You don?t like the peole here? They are some fools?

You are reading here, you are copying here, you get the infos from here, but you name this guys "fools"...
Sorry, i am here since a few days, i didn?t found any fool, and i will go ahead to post here, because the people are constructive here.

BUT YOU ARE DEFINITELY NOT CONSTRUCTIVE! Sorry for the bad words, but you are a simple copyer.... So you can put your result into your ass, because nobody will be interestet about your results in a few days. (we will have them for our own)
If you change your opinion, you are everytime welcome on my site, and i will say sorry for this hard words.
I?m only a little bit sad, because i had the same problem a few years ago. Lots of bad guys killed my lust to show anybody anything.
But this time, I?m a little older, a little bit more patient, and a little bit more rich *bad joke*

have a nice day outside, my interested friends.
thomas