MylowHJ Replication - Discussion

[i_ron]

Hi guys!

Sorry to jump in here
I found the right thread finally!
snip

Lindsay

Welcome to the group Lindsay! As you may have noted it is
not to coherent or vocal, lol, I do hope someone will take up
your question/suggestion. I have the basic rotor but no
magnets so am not in a position myself. But just wanted to
say how I have always savored your TPU posts.

Best regards,

Ron
 

[X00013]

@Mylow http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEM3CpeqHbc

[wattsup]

I posted this on the other thread but wanted to put it here also because I feel this is where we will successfully crack this.

@all

I have been thinking and thinking and testing with my wheel to see why Mylow can do this and why we are having a harder time and I think I have finally figured it out but activating it on my Pizza wheel will be difficult because of all these neos but I gather not impossible, but I will have much better chances when I get my real aluminum wheels on Monday.

But to the builders, think about this.

We all know that when we put too many rotor segments around the wheel, we lose the individual segment motion and produce what I call the magnetic crowning effect where the magnetism is like totally the same around the whole wheel. And therein hides the answer.

I think that Mylow manages to do is put his rotors in such a manner that he is just a tad away from creating the crowning effect, which is bad for forward propulsion movement. So his rotors are set-up just off the crown effect. It is the stator that is making the final addition that sends the rotors in and out of the crown effect. When the rotors are out of the effect, their polarity exerts directionality, when the rotors fall into the crown effect because the stator now moves to a connecting position, the rotors crown instead of producing a sticky on the stator. When they crown, their effect is neutral permitting the rotor to pass the stator as if they were not even there.

I think this is where we have to concentrate our skills to perfect or permit the stator to make the crown connection because this is exactly like a magnetic on/off switch. Crown on, let stator pass sticky, crown off, push wheel further.

Much more fun to come.

[wattsup]

OK, based on my previous post here is an idea for a set or standard rotor placement procedure regardless of the wheel diameter, etc.

1) Map out on the wheel in at least 7-8 quadrants.

2) Start by adding one rotor in the center of each quadrant.
3) Then add one rotor to the left of each rotor already in place.
4) Then add one rotor to the right of each two rotors already in place.

5) Once you have three rotors in place, try the stator and see if you can go through a segment. Try it in each segment. Even if the stator sticks on the exit this does not matter, as long as it can move through the first two.

6) Then add one rotor to the left of each three rotors already in place.

7) Then repeat step 5 through each segment. If all goes well and the stator can pass through the first three magnets, continue.

8) Then add one rotor to the right of each four rotors already in place.

9) Then repeat step 5 through each segment. If all goes well and the stator can pass through the first four magnets, continue.

10) Then add one rotor to the left of only one of the five rotors already in place. This means add only one rotor to only one segment.

11) Then repeat step 5 through each segment. If all goes well and the stator can pass through the first rotors even if it sticks to the last, continue.

12) Then repeat steps 10 and 11 adding only one rotor at a time and then doing the stator test.

13) Eventually, when you add another rotor, you will then notice that the stator no longer travels through any of the segments because you are now in the crown effect. Remove that rotor and this is where you will need to be when you then experiment with the stator positioning.

14) If you want, you can then place the removed rotor in another segment just to see if the crown effect comes back. If it does, remove it and try it in the next segment. If it does not, leave it there and add another rotor. This will reinforce the notion that the crown effect will happen and you need to stay just one rotor out of it.

But the general idea si for all builder to use a standard rotor placement logic. Guys that already have fully populated wheels that have the stator moving through all the segments but still sticking on the outlet can simply use this procedure as a guideline to add a few more rotors to the wheel. You may be just a few rotors away from the crown effect and need to come a little closer to it.

All the best.

wattsup

[BEP]

To share a thought that seems to lead me where I want:

I've been trying to cause an offset gradient at each rotor segment, like the Mylow segments display. That is the 'sweet spot' is near one end of a segment and when released the stator 'wants' to go to the other end of that rotor segment with more than expected acceleration.

Or to use current terminology: The crown is near one end only of a segment.

The way working for me - place a rotor mag - place the next one with a gap of about two-thirds of the mag width. Each gap after that is 'very' slightly less.This has been easy with small groups of rotor segments but the more mags in the segment the lower the difference. I have no idea how this could be possible on his current build.