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Overunity Machines Forum



AC from Joule Thief Secondary/pick-up

Started by jeanna, June 16, 2009, 03:11:33 PM

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jeanna

Oh dear.

I have made this hard to understand.
I apologize.

The base resistor is 80 ohms.

I am only using an additional resistor at the battery to know the amps draw... and to know what it really is. Using even a 10 ohm resistor in the battery place will lower the amps draw so much the lights get dim. And that means the amps draw I report is for a circuit which has dim lights.

And the amps draw for a circuit that has bright lights is higher.
The .47 ohm resistor shows this.
And I only use it to record the approximate amps draw for the circuit with bright lights.

In this case 102mA  for 25 bright leds.

thank you,

jeanna.


jeanna

Hi everybody,
I added another secondary (25T) and my new toroid (style 1-2,4) now has 2 secondaries like the other.
The higher voltage everywhere is stable.
I did need to make a couple of changes but they were minor.

The base resistor came down to 80r from 245r.
Since the toroid is the same in both, I think this has to do with the 5T,8T instead of 10T,10T at the primary level.
I am guessing.

5T,8T,84T,25T
2N3904
80r base resistor
101Cap in || with the base resistor
All the inductors and caps are the same as before...

As I mentioned last night, the light was so strong on the final leds of S1, I had to add one more to make 4.
Today I added another and 5 is too much and they could not light.
BUT, when I added S2 the 5 could light well. (not as bright, but egads S2 isn't even electrically attached to this line!!)

S2 with the same 25T as the other one has 34 volts showing across the wires on the scope and 111khz.
I added one more light to each of the 2 circuits here and the lights are still a little brighter than the S1 lights.

The amps draw is down too.
Remember last night with just the S1 and its 25 leds, it was drawing 102mA
After I added the S2 and the 2 additional leds making a total of 34leds in all and in series, the amps draw dropped to 87mA.

There is one other thing I should add to this report.
There are 2 sections of lights that lit with a single wire plus my hand for grounding.
I only discovered this because all the circuits were already in place and as I moved around the S1 wire, the lights in these 2 areas went on.

I am planning to remove one of these 2 circuits and concentrate on what can be done with a single secondary with multiple circuits.
This is the design Tesla ended up with and our house circuits are built on this scheme.
I see why.

I hope it will be a simple matter to add one series inductor along with each light (=set of leds in series) kind of like an ac wall wart to manipulate the ac or pdc going into each set of lights to produce the desired light.
It may be better/easier to add a series inductor with a parallel cap.
I am also wondering if a variable resistor can add usable flexibility to this system.
Lots more to find out. ;D

jeanna

stprue

Quote from: kamax on October 08, 2009, 04:53:55 PM
I post my wireless effect here because it's more AC from secondary.
Here are my 2 new video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S41leK9zXO4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZS4qgBAB4QI

This is a great direction and I have dabbled in something similar a while back.  I think copper mass has a lot to do with this effect but when you touch something not only are you grounding it but your body actually acts like a capacitor..

Keep up that great work!

8) 8)

gadgetmall

@jeanna
     Where do you get those pretty boxes from for your light?. what are they  ?

Albert
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Vortex1

To get optimum performance down to less than 0.5 volts from your Joule Thief, try using an autobias circuit with a hocus focus rectifier (Digikey) These work best with Bhoudini circuits. That should stabilize the circuit at the lower voltage and put the clamp on those missing Joules that the Thief absconded with. They are returned to the source in a timely manner, so not stolen after all, just borrowed. All this comes at a price, which just about nullifies the conversion efficiency gains. The front porch of the pulse is now missing, so you will need a DC restorer to build it back. A Schloky diode will help with this if connected in inverse parallel and carefully color matched.

I channeled all this from Tron the god of energy. Lately he told me that I could carefully peel the wrappers off nearly dead batteries and put the rest in a blender, add some tomato juice and vinegar and mold the sludge into a much bigger battery. I haven't tried this yet cause  the transmission was interrupted when I asked what kind of electrodes to use.

Then a loud bellowing voice said "It is not the oracle that petitions the young fool, it is the young fool that petitions the oracle"...."ask again in one month"