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Overunity Machines Forum



Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

Started by Pirate88179, June 27, 2009, 04:41:28 AM

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a.king21

Quote from: Collapsingfield on August 24, 2012, 02:30:23 AM
@a.king21, what about the higher resolution video? Are you able to arrange the promised publishing? We hope some other little details or confirmation from it.
Thanks in advance.
My partner  is extremely busy . He's away on business.

a.king21

Quote from: Zeitmaschine on August 24, 2012, 06:55:14 AM



This does not signify anything, except the supply voltage of the spark generator is obviously not sufficient stabilized. More load means the overall voltage of the device goes down and takes the frequency of the spark generator with it.
OK Zeitmaschine: Here is my evidence. Both the description of the device and the schematic talks about a load adjuster in parallel with the output. A load adjuster would take more current when output decreases, and take less current when output increases. Remember it is in parallel with the output. Please do the experiment. Put a dummy load in parallel with your spark gap, and then remove it and observe the scientific result.

Zeitmaschine

Quote from: Dom Tesla on August 24, 2012, 07:14:14 AM
Has anyone been able to succesfully replicate the kapanaze generator?
One more guy that can't believe there are no clear results after 895 pages. :(

Can't believe it myself. Could easily be that we are all in the wrong movie.

::) ::) ::)

Quote from: a.king21 on August 24, 2012, 09:02:31 AM
Put a dummy load in parallel with your spark gap, and then remove it and observe the scientific result.
What dummy load? If the spark fires at 2000V, putting a dummy load of a few ohms (like lamps or heater) parallel to the spark gap the high voltage will never reach 2000V (or more) so the spark will never fire.


wattsup

@all

This is how I see the base problem. (My opinions only)

Example:

You want 2200 watts to heat up your element.

Now let's say you only have 220V at 5 amps so an output of 1100 watts that is far away from any OU because your real juice going in is 1400 watts.

So your choice is two fold.

A)  Either you find a way to double the 220v amperage from 5 to 10 amps. (or 120v from 10 to 20 amps)

Orrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.................................

B) You raise the available low voltage of 220v/5A to 11,000v and 0.1 amps (same energy).
Then you work to raise the 0.1 amps to 0.2 amps and more.

So, which of A or B do you think is easier to accomplish?

Why does it have to be any more complicated then that and again, which method would you prefer to use to tackle the problem? A or B?

Guys have been trying A for decades and decades now with nothing to show for it. All the Romero Wheels work in A. Also trying to increase amperage but the drag gets you all the time.

Most of the greats that have either been suppressed or forgotten have been using B. So why do you think TK is any different when he is concretely showing solid results with outcome of running a heating element for 4.5 hours, with wires so thin, my speakers would choke.

Then question of fake or not........... When you build something for a reason, all the components and connections will have a logical reason that any regular EE will see right away. There is none that are bad in TK's builds. All the wires are always going somewhere logical. So if I ever found, in a TK build, aaaaaaaaaa, hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, Wire X, it will be a pleasure to show it to all and learn from that. But no wire x yet. How many pages on this thread and no wire x.

It has to be simple.

In the Aq2v....

The triple transformer is the positive potential. Since only the positive is being consumed with its negative left in a limbo of paralleled secondaries. This one polarity usage means the drive system consumes little energy and maybe will take the amperage of the negative as well and give it to the positive side, since it is not needed. Probably those two primaries on 1 and 2 are being used to send back juice to loop the driving system. hehehe

The TK coil (TKc) is the negative potential rectifier next to ground. This whole deal relies on the TKc being able "do something" to trick the negative ground into charging the TKc, so it can be a good negative to the load. The TKc winding is creating many HV convergent lines that are 6 phased, probably causing the ground negative to see it as a much stronger overall potential then it really is, hence piling on more negative potential.

The "load adjuster" is the Coily Coil circuit. It is the only point at output that vary from load to no load since it is basically a glorified short circuit.

The load, any load is a dual potential rectifier by demand because the load itself will be permeated with the HV+ from one side and the charging negative from the other side. The load will bring down high voltage to an RMS value as depicted by the level of heat generated by the load element. This is all done in the load. TK does not see a load like we do. He uses the load as a step-down transformer. He sees the load as another spark gap using resistance instead. Or as a vacuum tube, the load is the space between the anode and cathode.

Time to go back into build mode and experiment with the above notions. I still need to find a good deal on HV wire. Might be one strand 18 awg or thinner muti-strand to total 18 awg, rated 12,000 volts. I don't think I need 25kv.

wattsup


Cap-Z-ro


"  I also thought it was Russia who invaded Georgia. "



Russia or U.N. - no difference.

They are both playing the same game...similar to various players sitting around a 'Monopoly' board.

Regards...