Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[bolt]

Here is a sim of 50Hz modulator of 7kv spark gap breakdown 5kv carrier. What i found was the spark carrier needs to be 1050 to get a 50hz sine out so my thinking is the clock for the NST needs to be synced. For practical purpose the NST clock maybe 25khz but sim don't like high frequency.

The concept is viable as HT pumps joules potential in to the ground while the 50hz modulation shapes the required response expected to the o/p of the transformer. 

Please don't fuss about reality here this is a concept sim only for my benefit but i thought i post it.

[grizli]

He says, that he is amazed, how many bulbs you can power
with this circuit.
He is not using any ferrite cores yet, but he might try later on..
His circuit is the same as the one by romeouk, but just using the
AC from the MOT and he did not care about the winding directions.

Regards, Stefan.

He he , He did not care but just by accident BOTH coils became with crossed magnet fields hehe
Yes Rome says that this method is the best .
Than did Naudin use capacitor and HV diode or not ?

[aether22]

@All,

Here is something I discovered while running my small setup.

The oscillator output is AC. The oscillator maximum output
is approx. 5 watt. Normal output is approx. 2 Watt. The coils
is insulated from each other. I get no light in my bulb until
I connect a wire between A and B as shown in the drawing.
My only grounding is a aluminum plate that everything is
mounted on. Circuit is not OU but demonstrate an interesting
effect.

Groundloop.

Hey Groundloop,

Ok, I could be wrong, hell I'm probably wrong but I might suspect that you would find that attaching the wire between A and B not only improves the pickup of energy from L1 but it makes is a better receiver of energy from other perhaps and flux source.

The theory goes that the electricity in all of these systems and many more is induced by EM which is pulled from a stronger preferably leaky magnetic core flux source to a correctly conditioned preferably air core receiving circuit.

And positive charges and especially in conjunction with pulsing and spark gaps tend to create the right aetheric conditions to literally pull the flux into the receiver. (the positively charged coil could be seen to create a kind of torsion-vortex in the aether that absorbs environmental EM flux)


Maybe try and use a MOT, or an electric motor as the other flux source, it should output more with it on, and more with A and B connected.
In fact if you can measure it on a scope without killing the effect, then try and create a flux source with a specific frequency and see if it picks it up stronger with that wire connected or not.

This is what I believe to be THE primary FE effect on most devices.

Only catch is I'm not sure if all flux sources are created equal of it it helps to have an aetheric boost, may help if it is charged negatively (receiver charged positively).

[xenomorphlabs]

@Romerouk: 3 straight questions:

1)  What kind of ground cable did you use? Something like in the attachment?
2)  How deep did you sink the rods into the ground?
3)  What is the capacitance of the red 3kvDC cap across the load?


This would have 3 hard (not stranded) smaller wires inside


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[bolt]

Within reason the wire isn't so important. 3 core flex mains wire can be used or even thick RG213 coax for the earth wire or central core.  (kapandze used coax on his earth and everyone thinks its "special" to use coax...NO its a cheap way of finding thick cable. Even makes a decent pair of car jump cables)

Or use European earth wire as Kapagen. Or bundle several thru centre to handle the current.

Basically anything close to kapagen will work unless you get silly and try to make it using 28awg magnet wire:) The thicker the wire the lower the resistance the MORE amps it will handle.

Earth rods im sure he used 1/2 inch copper heating pipe and just banged it in the ground maybe a couple of feet.  If you are really drawing heavy power then lights will get a tad brighter every foot driven deeper. Its not that critical.

Cap across the load don't matter its an HF smoothing cap anything you have will help filter out light flickering bigger the better.

Good investment to buy GDT's if it save you money in blown bulbs! Use 250 Volt Europe or 130 volt US.