Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[romerouk]

@woopy

Are you using capacitors or not?
Don't try toaster or ventilator, you will blow them immediately. I have used a 1000w heater with fan inside. The heater works ok but the fan part inside burned in seconds. Normally the heater wire is not red because of the fan blowing air but now without the fan it goes red hot very fast.I have also tried connecting one 1200w oil radiator and is working fine (getting hot) but difficult to say how good.Voltage across the radiator plug shows between 350-400v.I am sure is not right.


I am still continuing testing the MOT version but I am also working with the 12v version too.
Someone in a previous post was saying that I need to adjust the SG. I have adjusted it and when I found the best distance I glued it there.Using copper pipes like I did is not getting hot as the car ignition plug. I have under test now carbon rods for the SG.

Success all,
RomeroUK

[broli]

@woopy

Are you using capacitors or not?
Don't try toaster or ventilator, you will blow them immediately. I have used a 1000w heater with fan inside. The heater works ok but the fan part inside burned in seconds. Normally the heater wire is not red because of the fan blowing air but now without the fan it goes red hot very fast.I have also tried connecting one 1200w oil radiator and is working fine (getting hot) but difficult to say how good.Voltage across the radiator plug shows between 350-400v.I am sure is not right.


I am still continuing testing the MOT version but I am also working with the 12v version too.
Someone in a previous post was saying that I need to adjust the SG. I have adjusted it and when I found the best distance I glued it there.Using copper pipes like I did is not getting hot as the car ignition plug. I have under test now carbon rods for the SG.

Success all,
RomeroUK

The problem is with input power. Sure all these resistive appliances can work fine but how much power is being drawn? Also an electric water cooker is quite a heavy load, usually around 2kW. So it's good for comparison tests to see how fast the water cooks starting from the same ambient temp and how much power was needed to do so.

[retrod]

Good work there, do you think you have OU or at least close to OU? your total load is 1200w thinking that the brightness is over 50% then you are there or very close.

Thanks Romerouk! Not sure on the O.U. I took a contol photo with the one remaining 200w lamp I had plugged into the mains. I then took that lamp and added it to the string, the MOT current stayed about the same. I know the load is not 1200w but those lamps sure get hot!
RD

[slapper]

@What_The_Flux - Tuning is a pain but I agree with bolt and yourself about it's importance. You might want to consider adding a pot for duty. But if your waves have symmetry it probably ain't that big of deal.

I'm afraid of the MOT so I'll probably be trying out a little brute force and a little tuning combination. I've just got to figure out how I'm going to convince my girlfriend that she needs two new holes in her her garage.

Heck - all I want to do is RING THE BELL

Take care.

nap

[retrod]

Thank you for sharing your design 
Will you be using adjustable spark gaps to "tune it in"?

The spark gap I use is a common Champion J-14 with neo magnet attached. The the gap is around .035in . The plug is USED. What happens is the gap will at first arc violently. Then the carbon vapor forms a small cone on the outer electrode facing the inner tip electrode. So the gap forms a cone shaped carbon tipped electrode for the application all by itself! You can actually hear this process on my video and notice how quite the spark becomes.

RD