Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[dllabarre]

Ok, so one relatively thin wire goes through the hole, connects to the think rod or bundle of wires once or twice and then goes back again?
Because the image shows one thin wire doing a hairpin turn in and out and a fat conductor making for 3 conductors through the core so to speak.

Sorry to be pedantic but the fewer variations needed to try the higher the  of success.

Here's what I'm doing and I believe most others are doing as well.  Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Take 4 insulated wires, strip some of the insulation off of each end of each wire.  Connect the same ends together with each other.  Take the wire from the MOT, pass it through the center of the core and connect it to the end of the bundle of wires.   Then take a wire and connect it from the other end of the bundle of wires and go to grnd rod.

<-- connect these 4 ends together then connect a new wire that goes from this end to grnd rod.
---==============--- connect all 5 of these ends together
---==============---
---==============---
---==============---
================--- <--- wire from MOT gets connected to this end as well.

Hope this helps.
Don

[DimaWari]

@callanan,

Thanks a lot for the info and diagram...

[e2matrix]

snip<
BTW as for the cap and diode, I'm surprised the diode isn't reversed but these are electrolytic caps no?
In which case you must use them correctly as charging them to the wrong polarity will cause they to explode, had that, kinda dramatic and with a risk of burns.

I'm fairly sure most people are using the MO cap typically 0.95uf and ~2000 volt which is an AC cap I believe so no polarity involved.  I think nearly every electrolytic or polarized cap I've seen has at least some marking on it indicating + side or negative side.  I'm still thinking about a Capacitor a guy told me he made in Jr. High.  He stacked a bunch of metal doors on top of each other with carboard in between each one.  Charged it with a DC welder.  Then rolled a big acetylene tank against it.  Blew it clear across the room.  Guy was nuts.  But I have to wonder what the farad rating on that thing was 

[aether22]

SUCCESS, well sort of.

I made a Kapagen based on RomeroUK's and JLN's specs, I had the 22 turn coil in an adding mode as JLN said he used, I had the wires go through the MOT core to the wires and I had the steel ground plate.

My load was a string of 12 x 100w 230v light bulbs in series with no protection.

My gap was thoriated welding rod on the transformer side and a graphite rod on the other.

The bulb brightness was good, I'd guess around 75% but I can't be sure.

The downside is it only lasted a very short while then something, my guess is the MOT died, got 1 or 2 (if I take apart the one in the kitchen) more so hope to try again tomorrow but hope to figure out what killed it so swiftly.

I would note that I had an autotransformer but the bulb brightness dropped off pretty fast when I tried to turn it down.

Interestingly whatever died must have done so on turn off but at this stage it could even be a connection issue so will see later, photos soon.

[replicator]

Hello guys,

I see you have a problem to check if your setup whether OU or not OU. To avoid the damage of the MOT, use adapt/calculate the right power/wattage of the load to the secondary of 2kV eff. of MOT.

I draw a small setup to compare two cases:
1.) in the upper part, you can check/calculate the consumed power without the Kapanatze (or kapagen) coil setup only to use the bulbs and measure the power with ammeter. To compare the bulb's lightness just make a photo, but to make a precise comparison mayabe a luxmeter would be required.
2.) at the bottom side, use the same bulb bank as the load of the coil setup side, with Kapagen coils (spark gaps, earth connections, etc...).

have a nice day!