Selfrunning Free Energy devices up to 5 KW from Tariel Kapanadze

[aether22]

I have a question. I have three  transformers, but each of them drawn between 1.7 and 2.1 Amp (220V) when not loaded on HV side. Sat how can I go below the limit of 1.7 A loaded?
I had litle experimenting, but without success, my lowest amp draw was 5.3 amp (all at 220 V).
during these days I'm digging a hole (at least 5 times) at different places in my yard, rewinding tube with different number of turns and Different Directions. using different values of capacitors, or without capacitors. I used three types of systems for sparkplug - and gues what? still nothing in view of reduction in amp draw.
for load i use 200W/230V and 150 W/230 V lightbulbs  in Different combinations .

I also try what you sugested to woopy but stil nothing...

pictures  of my setup will ad later.

with respect
tadej

Hope no one has answered this yet, but have you tried an autotransformer/variac? Or at least a power controller (easy to make BTW).
Or just ass another MOT primary in series as Ballast.

That current draw MIGHT be a little high for as unloaded one but I'm not sure.

[callanan]

Hi All,

To better replicate and try and understand just what could possibly be happening that gives the Kapagen it's OU effect, it is important to know just how it was discovered. Here is more information from JLN.

"Initially, at the beginning of the project, my MOT was fixed in the Kapagen blue box with four 8 mm diam nuts and bolts and the box was placed on the grass. At the beginning of the v3 test the power input was equal to the output power, then after some minutes of testing, I have noticed that the power input has dropped dramatically to less then half of the starting power for the same level of the light output while an odor of burnt grass could be smelt... This was a strange event and then after some investigations, I have found that this was below the blue box... See the photo attached, the bolts has burned the grass and three burn marks can be clearly seen..."

"So, after this event, I have added the thick steel plate below the box... May be at this moment I have discovered something here..."

So it sounds like JLN's steel plate may just give a broader and better conduction to the ground. This is not to say that it could be replicated with just another ground spike as the direct arcing to the soil of the ground maybe an important factor in getting it to work. Even when you look at the picture of his steel plate under his blue box, it looks like there are some burn marks from arcing.

[aether22]

I already suggested this in my earlier posts

"You can buy a 1.2Kw  heater for under 15 gbp/euro/usd this might be cheaper then buying like 10 or 12 100 watt lightbulbs and risk blowing them. You can even buy 400 watt heater elements for under 2 gbp/euro/usd each.

See Ebay.

If you use a heater make sure no motor inside for Swivel or fan blower just normal convection bar heater. I think if you have Infra Red thermometer you can take temp reading of heater using normal mains after 60 second versus KAPAGEN powered and compare readings.

I think for most people in winter having a 2kw bar heater and 2kw hot water is MUCH more useful then lightbulbs even though of course its a visual test."

Erm, don't you see the difference between 12 lightbulbs and a 1.2KW heater?
Sure, both case safely dissipate 1.2KW but the bulbs will be in series offering a very high resistance and require little current to light, the heater has a low resistance and requires 12 times more current to be at it's full rated power.

Of course the Bulbs if anyone wants to test it can be in other configs such as 2 parallel strings of 6 bulbs so it has good flexibility.

***********

BTW as for the cap and diode, I'm surprised the diode isn't reversed but these are electrolytic caps no?
In which case you must use them correctly as charging them to the wrong polarity will cause they to explode, had that, kinda dramatic and with a risk of burns.

[callanan]

Hi All,

To better replicate and try and understand just what could possibly be happening that gives the Kapagen it's OU effect, it is important to know just how it was discovered. Here is more information from JLN.

"Initially, at the beginning of the project, my MOT was fixed in the Kapagen blue box with four 8 mm diam nuts and bolts and the box was placed on the grass. At the beginning of the v3 test the power input was equal to the output power, then after some minutes of testing, I have noticed that the power input has dropped dramatically to less then half of the starting power for the same level of the light output while an odor of burnt grass could be smelt... This was a strange event and then after some investigations, I have found that this was below the blue box... See the photo attached, the bolts has burned the grass and three burn marks can be clearly seen..."

"So, after this event, I have added the thick steel plate below the box... May be at this moment I have discovered something here..."

So it sounds like JLN's steel plate may just give a broader and better conduction to the ground. This is not to say that it could be replicated with just another ground spike as the direct arcing to the soil of the ground maybe an important factor in getting it to work. Even when you look at the picture of his steel plate under his blue box, it looks like there are some burn marks from arcing.

I must also note something that maybe of importance. If you look at all of JLN's videos, it appears that his MOT blue box is always in between the two ground spikes but close to the first one which is "Gnd1" on the latest circuit diagram. Circuit wise, it maybe important to do this because where all of the current WILL flow through "Gnd2" because this is the load ground, this same current will be split between Gnd1 and the steel plate under the blue box. Because the steel plate does not provide as good of a conduction path due to the arcing and dubious surface contact with the ground, it may need to be closer to Gnd2 then Gnd1 is to get the right amount of conduction, and perhaps also arcing, to get the OU effect to occur.

[grizli]

I must also note something that maybe of importance. If you look at all of JLN's videos, it appears that his MOT blue box is always in between the two ground spikes but close to the first one which is "Gnd1" on the latest circuit diagram. Circuit wise, it maybe important to do this because where all of the current WILL flow through "Gnd2" because this is the load ground, this same current will be split between Gnd1 and the steel plate under the blue box. Because the steel plate does not provide as good of a conduction path due to the arcing and dubious surface contact with the ground, it may need to be closer to Gnd2 then Gnd1 is to get the right amount of conduction, and perhaps also arcing, to get the OU effect to occur.

Does MOT have HV coil connected to its iron core ? they usually do ? if so just wire should be connected to iron core and grounded..