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Earth Electrical Energy Datalogging Experiments

Started by Pirate88179, July 14, 2009, 09:40:58 PM

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0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Good for asking, jim.

My mom used to have a nut chopper that had steel plates which would match other steel plates and catch the nut in the middle and you would get nut crumbles. (yummie walnuts on baklava.)

jeanna

tishatang

@Bill and all,
I found the Tesla stuff.  Go here and download this pdf:  Tesla right at top.

http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter7.pdf

Notice how your simple diagram is almost exactly like fig 1.  Just substitute his aerial plate for your carbon rods.  He stressed the importance of the cap be of good quality.  Back in his day, caps were more expensive and harder to make than inductors.  Your supercap is probably a millions times bigger than anything they could conceive of back in his day.  The size of your cap is compensating for the small size of your aerial (long leads) or the carbon rods are doing the same thing as the plates?

This is exciting because Tesla was no fool.  He spent most his time on the coils and new electric motors.  In these patents I am almost sure he just grounded everything to the water pipes.  I doubt he had time to experiment with earth batteries.  I am fairly sure the spikes you are getting are radiant events.  I describe a radiant event as spikes of voltage without current.  The spikes are high and so quick they disappear.  There is no current to measure, at least on your scope.

Radiant events are what charges the batteries in the Bedini systems.  Have you tried substituting a discharged six volt battery in place of the super cap.  Maybe it will charge up if the spikes are high enough?

I am wondering if your supercap can run a micro relay as an oscillator?  Then by using a microwave oven transformer, you can duplicate the very first diagram in the downloaded pdf.  If not, maybe you could try a small electric toy motor with brushes.  This might put enough noise to act as a make/break to energize the MOT?  The MOT is hooked up backwards with the secondary as the input to dup the first circuit shown.
Lots of things to do, weather permitting.

@Electricme
I think it is too difficult to make var caps.  Just get them from an old radio.  Once we know what freq we want, we just parallel them with a fixed cap to get our resonance point.  In other words we determine the freq we want resonance.  Then look at our junk box for inductors on hand in milliHenries.  The size of the inductor acts with the caps to give the res freq.  This is why I keep stressing to know what are the freqs shown on the scope shots.  It generally is easier to make var inductors as they can be handwound.  Can be coils on a cardboard tube with a smaller coil on a tube sliding inside one another.  Or a coil with an iron bolt sliding in and out for tuning.

@freepow
First make sure your supercap is not leaking or shorting.  Substitute with a known good one.  Or, measure with a good meter set on high ohms.  Should be high megohms or infinite.  May have to wait a while for the battery of the meter to charge the cap.  I have never worked with low voltage supercaps.  It might be possible the 9 volt battery in the meter will break down the 2.7 volt rating of the cap?  In other words, the act of checking the cap, might ruin it.  Ask someone about this before attempting to check.  Maybe best to check it by charging with a battery.  Wait a while, then use it to light an led til it runs out.  I would think it would run the led for a while.  If it just winks out, you know something is wrong with the cap.

Pirate88179

Here is a site for variable air gap capacitors for radio applications.  I have no idea on the pricing or any other details:

http://www.midnightscience.com/catalog5.html

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen

Cosmicfarmer

@freepow
I think firstly you should let it entrain for a long time, like a week or so to get the currents really used to going up your wire. Or a few days at least. Then without breaking the connection, hook your bridges and caps up to charge. That way the currents arent too disturbed.  Its almost alive. 

So you might have to be like me and try to figure out a switch that gets the caps to connect together and power a load, and when dry connect back up to your bridge to charge. 

Also your JT might need more winds. Hows it act with just a battery? 

Pirate88179

freepow:

Also, I will add again that the alignment of your electrodes ( north-south meridian NOT magnetic north-south) and the angle on the bottoms relative to each other should match the magnetic dip angle for your specific area. This angle, of course, changes with the distance of the electrodes. It males a huge difference, at least it did for me.

Bill
See the Joule thief Circuit Diagrams, etc. topic here:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=6942.0;topicseen