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Overunity Machines Forum



STEORN DEMO LIVE & STREAM in Dublin, December 15th, 10 AM

Started by PaulLowrance, December 04, 2009, 09:13:07 AM

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Omnibus

Quote from: maw2432 on January 02, 2010, 04:41:13 PM
Thanks

It does have USB out to computer and Data Cable (Transfer waveform data to a PC)

Would that be ok for a poor-mans DSO for recording output... or do you really need DSO?

Thanks

Bill
As far as I can see that's a real-time transmission through the serial port. What DSO's do is they store the data in their own memory for later transmission via the GPIB. I don't know, if I were you and I'm serious about these matters I'd invest once and for all to have a good scope. I know, that's easier said than done but that's to be preferred. I wonder if you've seen there are computer cards which are actual oscilloscopes which you may insert into your desktop. I've worked with such long ago but it's a pain, I think (depends, you may like it, I don't know). The best thing is to have state of the art equipment which will also enhance the credibility of your results. It's one thing to present results taken with a Tektronix DSO and quite different with some chinese attempt at a DSO replica. I looked also at the Fluka Naudin uses but they're also expensive. For that money I'd prefer Tektronix many times over.

callanan

Quote from: captainpecan on January 02, 2010, 02:01:52 PM
Good work on all your projects guys, I have been working quite a bit the last few days so not much time to get to far.  I'll get done with my replication hopefully in a couple days when I get some more time.  A couple things I wanted to point out I saw while catching up reading here...

First off, I was also thinking of the odd number of coils, and even number of magnets that someone suggested here.  I had planned on making mine to adapt that way already to test it, as I am a huge Bill Muller fan, and I have already used this concept on one of my other projects with some success.  It does make the triggering a tad more difficult.  But, without the ability to hook more than one in series, it could also increase the input for the same torque, just less cogging.  Not necessarily what we need, but still worth trying.

The next thing that has been rolling around in my brain for quite some time, and nobody seems to have a solution for it yet.  Ossie has done fantastic with his replication, and has gotten further than anyone as far I can tell.  But, I have yet to see anyone get this done with 1.2 volts yet.. ? ? ?  We need to start trying to figure out what aspect of all of this we are missing, that is allowing Steorn to get that kind of motion for such little voltage.  I am afraid that even though we have gotten far here, we have still got to missing something that is key.  Can anyone come up with any theories as to how we can do this for much less voltage, without drawing 2 amps of current... ?

@Ossie, I know you show yours running on a dead 9 volt, but could you please take second and throw a D battery on there, and let us know if you can get any consistent spin at all?  They of course use a pretty mighty 10,000 mah nimh, but a simple disposable D battery at 1.5 volt should easily give as much current as theirs. Maybe you can already sustain 200 rpms or something with your new setup.  I know we can easily pulse charge a cap from 1.2 volts, and use the cap to run it.  But Steorn does not appear to be doing that.  What do you think we may be missing here?

Hi captainpecan,

Input voltage has nothing to do with the efficiency of the motor! I have run my motor on as low a 1V with varying circuits and coil arrangements. It is the input power that is important and what you want is to keep it as low as possible.

But in regard to what Steorn maybe doing with their model. By using a motor that runs on low voltage, you do not need as many turns on the coils in the generator and can then can use thicker wire on those coils which can increase the efficiency of the generator in terms of impedance matching of the generator to the motor or battery if you choose to have one. In fact, the battery maybe needed to serve the purpose of impedance matching the generator to the motor for maximum power transfer. I do not believe it is absolutely necessary to do this to make a self runner but it will make construction easier if you are making the generator coils yourself.

I am sure there are many ways to make this motor work.

Regards,

Ossie


gyulasun

Quote from: darkspeed on January 02, 2010, 04:10:52 PM
Anyone thought about it this way?

Hi,

The only advantage would be to wind the halves very easily with respect to a closed core winding. The touching surface areas must have excellent tolerances to avoid any airgap when you join the halves because the higher the gap the more input power is needed to saturate such a 'closed' core.
I think it is worth trying, nevertheless.

Gyula

Bruce_TPU

Quote from: Groundloop on January 02, 2010, 01:06:15 PM
@Bruce_TPU,

Great work. If you put your toroids flat against you rotor the you get only one
attraction point instead of two. My I recommend you put your toroids horisontal
with the toroid hole pointing upwards.

Alex.

Hi Groundloop,

Thank you.  Putting the former replication of Al's Hoax Motor (aka..TK) to good use!

I am going to eventually lay them flat, but want to do several experiments first.

@ Ossie and Groundloop,

I have built my "Ossie" circuit, but replaced the PN200 with a PN2907 and replaced the PN100's with MPS2222A's.  I believe that Ihave built my circuit correctly but seem to be having a problem with getting a trigger coil to trigger the circuit.  I am using small N35's, all North's facing out.  I have 20awg enameled wire and I have 26awg.  I made a small coil with the 26awg wrapped around a one inch plastic pipe.  When I spun the rotor, I could not get any voltage to register on my coil.  Any thoughts would be appreciated...LOL  Thanks!

Bruce
1.  Lindsay's Stack TPU Posted Picture.  All Wound CCW  Collectors three turns and HORIZONTAL, not vertical.

2.  3 Tube amps, sending three frequency's, each having two signals, one in-phase & one inverted 180 deg, opposing signals in each collector (via control wires). 

3.  Collector is Magnetic Loop Antenna, made of lamp chord wire, wound flat.  Inside loop is antenna, outside loop is for output.  First collector is tuned via tuned tank, to the fundamental.  Second collector is tuned tank to the second harmonic (component).  Third collector is tuned tank to the third harmonic (component)  Frequency is determined by taking the circumference frequency, reducing the size by .88 inches.  Divide this frequency by 1000, and you have your second harmonic.  Divide this by 2 and you have your fundamental.  Multiply that by 3 and you have your third harmonic component.  Tune the collectors to each of these.  Input the fundamental and two modulation frequencies, made to create replicas of the fundamental, second harmonic and the third.

4.  The three frequency's circulating in the collectors, both in phase and inverted, begin to create hundreds of thousands of created frequency's, via intermodulation, that subtract to the fundamental and its harmonics.  This is called "Catalyst".

5.  The three AC PURE sine signals, travel through the amplification stage, Nonlinear, producing the second harmonic and third.  (distortion)

6.  These signals then travel the control coils, are rectified by a full wave bridge, and then sent into the output outer loop as all positive pulsed DC.  This then becomes the output and "collects" the current.

P.S.  The Kicks are harmonic distortion with passive intermodulation.  Can't see it without a spectrum analyzer, normally unless trained to see it on a scope.

gyulasun

Hi Bruce,

I think your induction in the trigger coil is small: due to the small magnet strength or the number of turns is not enough or both.
Try making much more turns for the trigger coil, using finer wire.
Also use a small ferrit core in that coil to increase its inductance and test the distance till you cannot get a peak 0.6-0.7V induced voltage when you handturn the rotor.

Gyula