STEORN DEMO LIVE & STREAM in Dublin, December 15th, 10 AM

[callanan]

Hi All,

Please see this latest video I just uploaded. It highlights both the importance and difficulty in switching this motor for maximum output whilst keeping the input power as low as possible. Hopefully many who see this may realise that their previous Steorn motor they built which did not work may have actually run but was just not tuned correctly. I have gone through a few reed switches now and they are terribly unreliable and keep changing their properties in themselves over time. They are NO GOOD for this motor and electronic switching is a must but it also must be elaborate electronic switching and cater for timing advance and pulse width control.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VhKqqHxEmE

Regards,

Ossie

[k4zep]

Get rid of the reed switch. If you want to dynamically control duty cycle use two hall sensors/reflective sensors. One at TDC and one a little further which you can control by hand. When the first switch triggers at TDC it will trigger the coils on and leave them on untill the second sensor triggers and turns them off.

Hi All,

To dream further on down the line, use a small dedicated micro like the Arduino for overall control of all variables as needed, it goes on and on....It just depends on how creative the programmer/builder is.........But that is for later.  Oh the webs we weave!

Ben K4ZEP

[Staffman]

Hi All,

Please see this latest video I just uploaded. It highlights both the importance and difficulty in switching this motor for maximum output whilst keeping the input power as low as possible. Hopefully many who see this may realise that their previous Steorn motor they built which did not work may have actually run but was just not tuned correctly. I have gone through a few reed switches now and they are terribly unreliable and keep changing their properties in themselves over time. They are NO GOOD for this motor and electronic switching is a must but it also must be elaborate electronic switching and cater for timing advance and pulse width control.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VhKqqHxEmE

Regards,

Ossie

Just a quick comment... I fully expected the magnets to go flying off. Good work.

Do you have four magnets on that rotor? You could help with timing by drawing lines on your base board to show where the magnets are in relation to timing. I'm thinking that due to circuit lag (or in this case reed lag), placing lines to show where your magnets are would help visualize this. If this makes no sense, I've been up for awhile.

[k4zep]

Hi All,

Please see this latest video I just uploaded. It highlights both the importance and difficulty in switching this motor for maximum output whilst keeping the input power as low as possible. Hopefully many who see this may realise that their previous Steorn motor they built which did not work may have actually run but was just not tuned correctly. I have gone through a few reed switches now and they are terribly unreliable and keep changing their properties in themselves over time. They are NO GOOD for this motor and electronic switching is a must but it also must be elaborate electronic switching and cater for timing advance and pulse width control.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VhKqqHxEmE

Regards,

Ossie

Hi Ossie,

It would be fun to see a low value current sensing resistor in one of the battery supply leads with a DVM or sensitive analog meter across it and see if the current flows negative at any time when you are messing with the reed switch/timing setup!!!!!  Again GREAT work!!! 

Right now teaching is almost as important as building!  Passing on information and ideas to help the understanding and open mind is most important!!!

Respectfully
Ben

[callanan]

Hi All,

Here is where I got my coil cores from. The description contains the dimensions.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=LO1234&keywords=core&form=KEYWORD

I have about 20 metres of 0.5mm thick wire total wound on these cores for the coils in my Steorn replication test motor. I have wound the cores as quadfilar to make winding easier and then simply connected all the 4 wires in series to make a single winding. I have put as much wire length and turns of this thickness wire (0.5mm) that I could fit in the cores and still be able to mount them with cable ties.

Regards,

Ossie