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Overunity Machines Forum



New Jewel Thief "Resonate LCR Circuit" Much less energy draw....

Started by sirmikey1, January 01, 2010, 09:25:10 AM

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0 Members and 3 Guests are viewing this topic.

jeanna

Quote from: sirmikey1 on January 10, 2010, 02:44:05 AM
xee,
   Another member here has said that the original JT needs to be measured by running the transistor C&E through a full rectifier bridge.  I get around 7volts on the old JT
===========
EDIT
oops, I missed the most important part of your post, that it was the C-E where you were measuring.
The following has to do with measuring the secondary
so sorry.
===========
Mikey,
After you run it through the full bridge, then you must run it through 2 more diodes to solidify the directions (is how I think of it)
You will see many more volts when you use these 2 extra diodes.
And remember to use a photoflash cap. They are free and work very well for this... up to 300v

jeanna

jonnydavro

Hi.I have had another look at my chilliqueen SEC today and found out a few things.
The first is the ariel on the npn base needs to be removed as it is effectivly taking the pnp transistor out of the circuit and turning it into my pan oscillator.My chilliqueen SEC in my video was made without the ariel and works really well and it was after i made the vid when i decided to add it but it is detrimental to this circuit so Xee2 could you possibly do an amended circuit diagram including the following info.
I stripped my original chiliqueen SEC down and rebuilt it with the components in different places and to get it to run strongly i had to use a 22pf cap instead of the 100pf so component placement is important so if anyone builds this and their leds are dim,try different value caps  ranging from 10pf up to 100pf.I also added another four 1 meg resistors so resistace totals 7 meg so i could change the resistance by using a jumper  and this was a really good way to control the current draw up or down.Can you get a really large mega ohm value variable resistor as it would be perfect for this?.
This SEC variant runs really strong and stable without tuning issues and will do wireless leds straight of a 1.5v battery.Hope this info helps.Regards jonny.

xee2

@ jonnydavro

I hope this is correct. If not just let me know. My local electronics store has 1/4 watt resistors up to 10M. Above that they usually need to be special ordered with long waits.

I think that there should be a second plate so that the energy has a complete path. Have you tried adding a plate to the positive battery terminal? That is where I would think it should go.

Typically, the high voltage is generated in a parallel resonant circuit. I think that the coil secondary makes the inductor for the resonator and thus the parallel capacitance should be across the coil secondary.


jonnydavro

@Xee2.Many thanks.I do use another two plates.In the vid,i show some leds being lit by the backflow energy.This is the same strange electricity which is being radiated yet it flows back down the pos and negative rails.i Utilise this to light two banks of leds with the attached circuit.One aramenko plug goes to the posistive rail and the other goes to the negative.The trays attached to the negative leg of the last led are vital in getting the leds blazing.By adding this circuit it also reduces amp draw.So to sum up i use three trays in all.The 10 meg resistor sound perfect.I will check my local shop.Many thanks. jonny.

sirmikey1


This project reminded me of these two papers from
Overunity.Com a few years back: 

Well, just that it might cause some sparks ;)

Overunity in Copper & The Peculiar Nature of Copper...
http://www.archive.org/search.php?query=overunity%20copper

Mikey