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Overunity Machines Forum



The Ossie motor

Started by robbie47, February 02, 2010, 03:53:17 AM

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0 Members and 5 Guests are viewing this topic.

B2moos

Hello JB,

Can you carry out this test: to fix at interior each Coil a iron noyeau or a metal stem, (nails) would make the deal.

Thank you and continue your good work
8)
Mustapha

woopy

 Hi Jb

just made a quick test with your config polarity

I have not changed the orientation of the coil yet (they are glued)

but the result is DRAMATICALLY different as with the coil in serie.

first when i rotate the rotor by hand , there is no more AC generative curve. When i short the coils there is absolutely no braking of the rotor.  (no BEMF ??)

the scope at the coils (pix 1) shows something very different as per serie config very near from your scope shot, with sharp down kickback spiques.

But the output at the + and - of the bridge rectifier (pix 2) is impressive, with strong positive spique at the beginning of the pulse and very strong one at the end ( more than 60 volts) my battery is 7.2 volt.
I tried to short cut the bridge and it glued the reed in an hawfull ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ

yep !!    what are the community thinking about it ?? Is there these spiques which can charge the battery ???. And not the generative curve ??

Will try to orient the coils as jb did

stay tuned

Laurent

gyulasun

Hi Laurent,

When the coils polarity are -+ +- -+ +- then they work against each other from the induced voltage point of view (assuming the 4 magnets are all with the same poles facing / passing them) so in theory there should not be any output voltage due to induction. This should be true for the flux collaption when the reeds are switched off.  Very interesting you still see those big spikes. 
Could you put an electrolytic (or non-electrolytic) capacitor across the diode bridge output? make sure you place a load a simple resistor of some hundred Ohms also across this capacitor so that the unloaded voltage should not ruin the electrolytic (unless you have a 120V DC rated cap of  some ten microFarad, uF or so).
You may wish to check the diodes with a diode test range of your DMM because when you did the short and your reed made the ZZZZ, the diodes may got ruined?
If you happen to have a 12V or 6V or whatever incandescent light bulb of a few Watts power at hand, they would also be good for the load instead of the resistor.

rgds, Gyula

futuristic

Hi guys.

I've been quite busy this weekend. :)

I made an air core coil from 20AWG (0.8mm) wire. Resistance is 1.5 Ohm.
Rotor has diameter 20cm and has six 20mm x 10mm disc magnets on it.

I tried many configurations... Half/full bridge rectifier... but have soon found out that it works best without any diode.
So just battery, reed switch and air coil. I got big current pulses back into battery with this setup but reed switch died quickly.

So I changed my design and now I'm using relay. See attached circuit.
Now motor is running well and I get almost all the current back. On some pulses I get back more and on some less.
Attached is one pulse that returned more than was put in.
I also attached raw scope data.

Later I will also upload photos and video.

Anyway looking good. ;)

Have fun,
Frenky

futuristic

Forgot to tell that scope shots were taken across the 1 Ohm resistor.