The Ossie motor

[futuristic]

Hi guys.

Yes the point is in the spark in the relay. The spark gets the current back to the battery.
What I have now is basically Newmans motor in a little different setup.

Please don't get too much distracted by my different setup because I think there is something very interesting going on in the original Ossie motor, because I can't explain how can Jimbot get such a good results even though his scope shots show something that should be quite inefficient motor. So something weird is definitely going on and it needs to be researched.
But I will go my own way with this setup because I understand it better and I hope I will be able to get better results easier and faster.
I hope you don't mind me posting my results in this thread even though I'm going in different direction.

Have fun.
Frenky

[captainpecan]

Hi guys.

Yes the point is in the spark in the relay. The spark gets the current back to the battery.
What I have now is basically Newmans motor in a little different setup.

Please don't get too much distracted by my different setup because I think there is something very interesting going on in the original Ossie motor, because I can't explain how can Jimbot get such a good results even though his scope shots show something that should be quite inefficient motor. So something weird is definitely going on and it needs to be researched.
But I will go my own way with this setup because I understand it better and I hope I will be able to get better results easier and faster.
I hope you don't mind me posting my results in this thread even though I'm going in different direction.

Have fun.
Frenky

By all means, keep us updated.  Afterall, the whole Ossie motor was a drift from an Orbo motor.  You never know what can come out of something, just don't lose your way back if it don't work out!

@Jimboot and all,
I finally got mine running and tuned so the battery is climbing in voltage.  At this time I am using the original Ossie circuit, without any resistors.  I increased the strength of the magnets and decreased the rotor diameter.  I am using 2 shottky's to recover with, still waiting for some more shottky's to make the bridge.

Here is what I have learned so far from my setup.  If I use a rechargeable battery, it still declines slowly.  If I use a non-rechargeable, it increases in voltage.  I have ran this now for about 12 hrs, and it is acting exactly like Jimboot's so far.  I did hook it up to a 10F cap, and it declines also.  I did some variation testing to see if I can pinpoint what is going on, and I'm afraid a hunch I had so far appears to be correct at least from my testing so far.

When I left the multimeter hooked to the circuit for 1 hr, the non-rechargeable battery climbed up in voltage .012 v.  After 2 hrs, it climbed up another .013 v.  I disconnected the multimeter and let it run for 1 hr.  Briefly touching the multimeter to the battery after 1 hr showed a DECLINE in voltage of .06 v.  After 2 hrs, it declined another .05v.  Leaving the multimeter hooked up to the circuit for the next 1 hr ended up showing an increase of .012 v again.

Putting my results together with what we have heard from Jimboots replication, leads me to believe there is a good possibility that the multimeter is charging that battery.  I still of course do not have an oscilloscope as of yet, so there is still the chance my motor is not quite tuned exactly right, but I am showing similar results to Jimboot anyway.  Couple this with the fact that Jimboot just happened to kill the battery in his multimeter recently, makes me wonder if this could be what is happening.

Dont get me wrong, this is not a drawback to our building if my theory is correct about the multimeter leaching some juice into the circuit.  Just simply that we may have a little better understanding of what is going on, so we can be more careful to avoid skewing our measurements, so we can tune more properly.

@Jimboot, would you mind testing this theory for me, and leave your multimeter disconnected from the circuit and let me know if it begins to decline in voltage for you again?

The rpms are about 250 rpms, but my whole rotor is to shiny at the moment for a good measurement, so I'm just eyeballing it at the moment until I dull down the shine.

[solinear]

While increasing voltage can be indicative of increasing energy, without a good measure of wattage input vs. wattage output, there's no real way to state unequivocally that you are getting more energy out than you're putting in.

Another question is, even if you are getting more output than input, how much would it cost to build it up to a point where you are producing enough energy to be usable.  1 watt is barely worth mentioning, particularly if you have to spend $150 in parts.  You could consider a reasonable measure of cost to be $1.50/watt generated.  If you can get it to 100 watts for $150 in parts, then you're talking about something that is not only usable, but financially feasible at a large scale.  For a comparison, larger wind power setups are usually around $1.50/watt generated.  Smaller systems (hundreds of watts) can be as expensive as $6-8 per watt generated and ends up being barely worth purchasing for anything other than a moral perspective unless you are in Hawaii or a similarly expensive location.

At $.03/kilowatt hour (what coal costs), here are the payback times for a power generation system:

$1.50/watt generated: 6 years (17.5% payback per year)
$2.50/watt generated: 9.5 years (10.5% payback per year)
$3.50/watt generated: 13.6 years (7.5% payback per year)
$4.50/watt generated: 17 years (5.8% payback per year)
$6/watt generated: 23 years (4.4% payback per year)
$8/watt generated: 30.5 years (3.2% payback)

So, basically, unless you can't get it down to $5/watt cost, you'll have a hard time making this system worthwhile and you'd almost be better off putting your money in a mutual fund.  Basically every watt translates to $.263 per year (at $.03 per kilowatt).  If you want to consider the cost of buying the electricity (retail cost vs. wholesale), then every watt translates to around $.75 per year (figuring an average of just under $.09 per kilowatt across the US).  The good news is that, retail in the most expensive states, the payback rate gets better and better, until it becomes efficient even at $8/watt generated (less than a 10 year payback rate - states like Hawaii, where retail energy is in excess of $.20 per kilowatt hour).

[solinear]

When I left the multimeter hooked to the circuit for 1 hr, the non-rechargeable battery climbed up in voltage .012 v.  After 2 hrs, it climbed up another .013 v.  I disconnected the multimeter and let it run for 1 hr.  Briefly touching the multimeter tothe battery after 1 hr showed a DECLINE in voltage of .06 v.  After 2 hrs, it declined another .05v.  Leaving the multimeter hooked up to the circuit for the next 1 hr ended up showing an increase of .012 v again.

This statement has me a little concerned.  I'm wondering what the impact would be of just attaching a multimeter to the battery and watching the voltage for several hours.

[callanan]

Hi CP,

A multimeter when set for voltage is just a high impedance device.

Could it be that the multimeter leads with the meter's high impedance at the end is acting as some sort of dipole or REAC?

Perhaps longer leads with a variable impedance at the end would allow you to tune into the best energy recovery for this motor???

Perhaps this will allow you to get rechargable batteries to charge as well.

Many more things can be done with this motor once we start looking at the battery differently.

Would this then mean that an earth battery could run this motor indefinately as well?

How about an old dead and sulfated lead acid battery?

Regards,

Ossie