The Ossie motor

[captainpecan]

Hi CP,

Once the scope is featured for Coupling modes as AC/DC/GND it should mean the DC coupling too. Otherwise it would be a big drawback in marketing for this type.  The +-3% DC accuracy is a usual accuracy for even a similar digital scope like the one I referred to or probably Laurent has.
The only problem I have with USB PC scopes is they need a PC...  they are designed to a PC of course,  maybe a dedicated lap-top could be assigned for it.

rgds, Gyula

Yeah, the laptop is not a problem.  I have an extra one, and a desktop that is not even being used at the moment anyway.  But I just want the best bang for the buck, considering the limited funds available, and a good oscope can run thousands easily.

@all,
I started my long run with my motor to see how it is doing.  This one is still just using two reeds, and I have not set it yet to fire on both incoming and exiting of the coil.  That will be the next step, but I wanted a good efficiency benchmark to check it against first.  So far, this one shows an increase in voltage on disposable batteries, and a small decrease on rechargables.  Still scratching my head on that one.  But for this run I am using 1 AA 2000mah nimh battery.  So far it has ran for 12 hrs and has only decreased .06 volts.  Still could be better, but it's not bad as it is already. So it's going pretty well so far. I'm working on the 4 reed version that will be running shortly to compare the data. I'll keep posting my data as it goes.

Makes me wonder, when steorn stated the longest they ran the orbo for was 7 days continuous, and they were using a 10,000 mah D cell.  Guys, I think this Ossie motor can perform better than that.  It would be great if someone had a high enough quality oscope to do the same final tests that steorn did, with an Ossie motor.

[Jimboot]

Hi Jimboot,

Yes, I have been aware of your excellent series of tests and the only reason I included that link here is that I also thought it to be an Ossie variant, using diodes, reeds switches and coils, only the mechanical arrangement of the magnets and coils are different.  I did not want to offend anybody here.

Re on your recent asking where to put the scope probe. Laurent has showed mainly two measuring points, one is across the final ends of the series coils and another one is across a 1 or 100 Ohm resistor to see the voltage drop and estimate the current draw from the battery.
Because these battery operated pulse motor setups are ground independent circuits i.e. they have no any connection to the mains, normally there is no problem which point of the circuit you clip the scope probe on when you wish to see the pulses across the coils, the only consideration could be to see a positive going waveform on the screen and this happens when the ground clip i.e. crocodile of the probe is connected to the most negative polarity part of the circuit and the "hot" center pin of the probe is clipped to a 'positive' point.  For instance the most negative point of the coils in Ossie circuit is the negative battery wire via the reed switch and via the 2.2 Ohm to lower leg of coil L4, if you consider Ossie's schematic on Naudin page here:
http://jnaudin.free.fr/ossiemotor/indexen.htm   So I would connetc the crocodile of the probe to the common points of L4 and R1 and the pin tip of the probe would go to the upper end of L1  if I wished to see the waveform across the 4 series coils.

In these scope shots Laurent used scope settings like 10 ms for the time base range switch and 20V/DIV setting for the vertical scale:
http://www.overunity.com/index.php?topic=8731.msg227021#msg227021

It is always helpful to know what these setting have been at the moment the picture is taken from the scope display when you want to show it or ask about it.

His first picture in that link shows the waveform across the his coils and the lower picture shows the diode bridge output, being the crocodile is connected to the diode bridge negative output and the tip of the probe is clipped to the positive output of the bridge.

rgds, Gyula

Hey Mate - no offence taken! I was checking to see if I was missing something. The build is pretty impressive. I wasn't sure if there was something else I was supposed see.

[Jimboot]

@ Gyula @woopy thanks so much for the  explanation.  working on it last night. In the office but still not quite awake. Went to bed with two motors running off the same 1.5 battery - just because They were still running this morning.

Something weird is going on with my new Orzy tho. I had some metglass toroids. 19mm (not squareloop) & 12mm (squareloop) They fitted inside each other exactly and then into the  perfectly... so of course I had to build a motor with them inside. Got it running on normal coil polarity then on my arse backwards polarity. But I think I am getting massive bemf or something. The rotor inititially starts to spin up fast then the coils begin to emit a low loud hum and the rotor slows down. The hum vibrates the table I am working on but voltage drops don't seem that worse. This is off a 1.5v battery. To me it seems like a hell of a lot of energy being demonstrated in these vibrations. I'm hoping to find the equal but opposite reaction tonight

[captainpecan]

I'm having a hard time visualizing your setup?  But knowing how the magnets are pulling at those toroids, and it seems you have a toroids inside of other toroids.  Then I tend to think that your vibration is not necessarily coming from the pulsing of the motor as much as the natural magnetic attraction moving those toroids around.  Are they firmly fastened?  I'm just curious if you may be experiences toroids banging around inside of the other toroids.  If this is the case, you may want to fix that scenario quick like.  Metglass cores are kinda fragile.  Not knowing how severe your vibration is, it concerns me that you may be on the road to messing up your cores on accident.  Just take a good look at what is happening, and find a way to dampen the vibration if you can figure out where it is coming from.  But, of course I cannot really visualize what your doing so I'm making it up as I go, lol...  Good luck!

[Jimboot]

I'm having a hard time visualizing your setup?  But knowing how the magnets are pulling at those toroids, and it seems you have a toroids inside of other toroids.  Then I tend to think that your vibration is not necessarily coming from the pulsing of the motor as much as the natural magnetic attraction moving those toroids around.  Are they firmly fastened?  I'm just curious if you may be experiences toroids banging around inside of the other toroids.  If this is the case, you may want to fix that scenario quick like.  Metglass cores are kinda fragile.  Not knowing how severe your vibration is, it concerns me that you may be on the road to messing up your cores on accident.  Just take a good look at what is happening, and find a way to dampen the vibration if you can figure out where it is coming from.  But, of course I cannot really visualize what your doing so I'm making it up as I go, lol...  Good luck!

The toroids are fastened & not moving. I paid attention to their name Metal Glass . If this rumble was coming from the torids they would be well & truly shattered by now. The rumble is coming from the coils themselves. I think it is a current issue, bemf or some kind of feedback. Just very weird to see that much energy coming off a 1.5v for me. the rotor starts to accelerate then hum builds & slows the rotor but it keeps running. I'm sure it is a coils polarity issue but I didn't have this happen in the first motor and the only diff is the toroids. I took some vid last night but with web cam so the audio sux. edit: JUst remembered the other diff is that this motor has the opp mag polarity to the first one.