The Ossie motor

[woopy]

Hello all

just for  info

yestertday  i came back to Ossie original polarity  and with my new more resistant and inductive coils i could get very interesting results.

first it was easier to tune the reeds to get the current to drop  (depending of the voltage)  i could get a working motor  with  1.5  to 2 ma   really low

So i put another time my super cap  5.4 (2 x 2.7 volt) and 10 F to charge with my 4.5 alcaline battery. Than i disconnected the main battery and let the super cap works from itself   and it lasted easily 4 hours     but still dropping     and i stopped  the game when the rotor spun always at 60 rpm not dead at all. In my previous test it lasted only 1 hour and really at the end.

so my thinking is that     if we go up with more turns on the coils and thinner wire      the resistance is higher and the inductance also. Than the AC wave is larger but as we are in a air core config the BEMF is not proportional to this increase  ??. Just a supposition  !

But what  is very good  in my thinking    is the TORQUE   this motor works basically as an attraction motor (i did not try the CP config with attraction an repulsion energy yet )  but in attraction it is very powerfull 

I mean the impuls transforms the air coils as a magnet and attracts the rotor magnet, than the magnet approaches the TDC and the second reed cuts the current and the air coil transform itself  back as a generator

So contrary to a ORBO system   Which depends of the orinal net attraction of the magnet to the core ,  with the Ossie^s  we can vary the value of the attraction power by adding plus ore minus voltage. but as we cut this voltage at ( or just before ) TDC , the magnet travel the coils with the kinetik energy and      that is my question      eventually without (or very few ) BEMF

I am thinking  how i can compare a very high end electro motor with 90 % efficiency to this Ossie's config   any idea ?

Its a pleasure to be here and share

regards

Laurent

[Magluvin]

Hey Jim
Just 2 cells in series. Or more. It just interests me that so many just use 1.2 - 1.5v, AA C D  when 3 or 4 button cells or just AAAs would give faster test results in time also.

One reason that I can think of that the caps are not doing well here in replacement of the batteries is, the cap does not have resistance like a battery. With fat caps I can say yes to the resistors to limit the output. The cap as a power source, most tend to forget that the resistance is very very low and will dump way to fast. Here I would highly recommend a resistor to limit the output, and leave the recharge as direct as possible, diodes use at max. The resistor value will have to be experimented with but it may just do the trick. =] there may even have to be a zener across the cap to keep the volts down to a safe area below the caps max volts.

Now lets say the bemf is not quite as much as used, still, well that ratio can be very very close to 100% eff. Then all we need is just a hair of regular charge from the coils from the rotor to make up that tiny percentage and we are there. What do ya think?  =]
I have been involved with solid state ways of going about this due to if it ever works, the idea of a spinner in a cell phone for example might not be necessary. But I have gotten up to 97% eff just on just bemf. PWM power supplies can be like that. Now if I can put a few lil coils around the big coil to just capture a bit of field pulses produced by the big one, I just may be able to come up with that 3% or more.  =]  I dont have big caps yet to work with, but am looking into them.

Mags

[Magluvin]

hmmm quiet here now.  Was it something I said? Just asking cuz it happens quite a bit that I post a few things and then silence. But anyway....

Some may say Rubbish on my 97% on my output vs input. Did you see my light bulb smoking? If it were on the 5v 1a lil PS I have been using in between battery charges, its not bright at all, which I have shown. But that does not prove much. What i like about this lil supply is that it really does hang at a max of 1a. Now when I put the 5ohm 5w resistor on the output, I can get 4.85v steady across it. So im in the area that I claim. Now just to get that extree 3% or more. I have a lil plan I am going to execute this evening after I eat Lasagna, mmmm Stoffers. =]
As for the Ossie motor, it seems like you guys are somewhere close to 100% eff. Just a few more ingredients and she may be a winner.  Some how once you feel you have optimum from the motor itself, maybe placing a couple more of those coils you have maybe an in. or 2 behind each of the operating coils, and a bridge and cap and use another reed to dump the cap into the bat, during times that the bat is not being drained by the motor. It just may take you over the top.  Just ideas.

Mags

[captainpecan]

hmmm quiet here now.  Was it something I said? Just asking cuz it happens quite a bit that I post a few things and then silence. But anyway....

Nope, just got off work.  Trying to catch up on my reading.

As far as the resistors, I have not used them either yet.  I am only referring to JLNaudin's suggestion to use 2 22ohm resistors in the original 1 set of reeds setup.  I have not the resistors that low of value to even try until tonight.  I grabbed some under 100 ohm resistors from The Shack today to try.  According to JLNaudin, the addition of the very low value resistors decreased the amount of current input, but did not decrease the amount being returned by much at all.  The lowest resistor I had to test with was 100 ohm until now.  And that was not working at all, lol.  All my test's are without resistors so far.

As far as what I plan to do with the spark gap?  Not sure yet.  I am just kicking around the idea so far.  I just know that when I disconnected the bridge while my motor was running, the battery was charging up, while I could hear the rotor change in noise due to bemf, and my reeds switches were about to cry, lol.

As far as using diodes to shunt the spark gaps, or capacitors to filter it, I'm not sure what I think of that yet.  I know when you introduce capacitors you can expect to lose nearly half of the energy going into it right off the bat.  I was using a shottky bridge to start with when I found that disconnecting it actually charged the battery faster.  Still not sure on the explanation for that one yet, but it's interesting.

As far as why using a 1.2v battery instead of anything larger?  I have been using larger, I just have not reported the results.  I've been using 3 volts, 6 volts, 9 volts, and 12 volts so far, and a few variations in between.  Tuning seems to be easier to tweak the results at a much lower voltage so far.  Once it gives the desired results at such a low voltage, I'll go back up in voltage and go from there.  But for now, the original Ossie Motor was a 1.2v and I've been trying to successfully replicate before I drift to far from the original and get lost.

First off, I'm trying to figure out what is wrong with my dual pulse per coil setup, there is a short somewhere.  That's what I will be trying to nail down tonight.

[Jimboot]

I have to go and  tonight so I can't work on the Ossie or Orzy .

@Mags I think it is a time zone thing. You'll notice I always seem to have a bunch of posts then have to wait until the Northern Hemisphere wakes up to get a response

That's really interesting with the resistor & cap. So if the voltage is less that shouldn't effect the flyback? Except for the frequency of the pulse? I have been working with a 55F.
@woopy 4.5 hours Woohoo.

I hate to impose on you guys but can anyone explain that top trace in my last scope shot. The noise from the motor is definitely not my Metglas rattling. Realised I had already uploaded this vid with the noise. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yEcVPJZl11Q