The Ossie motor

[Jimboot]

Quick vid just to show position of pu coils & new scope trace.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPJqbF0MND0

[Jimboot]

voltage has risen to 1.320 over the last 6 hours. that is up .004. no pu coils hooked up. I think if this thing is tuned well enough it does indeed charge the battery. @ mags when I spin the rotor without power going thru the circuit I get the wave without the spikes. Which is why I think you're suggesting the using the drive coils as pu. Maybe I had polarity wrong or bad circuitry somewhere when I tried using them. Now that buoght another 3 torches & pulled them apart for their coils I'll try the big again 1st.

[Jimboot]

Hey Jim
Do that, then after seeing what is to be seen, try this.....


Put a reed across the pu coil, as in when the reed is closed, it shorts the coil.
Then try different placement for timing of the reed and see what haps.

Here is an example
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rR7P-JSF6i4

WTF!! 70v? Ok I tried it on mine and I got up to 9.5v! off my litlle 1mw. However it stops my motor the closer I get the reed. I think there maybe a sweet spot. That tuning device you use looks sensational. Did you just make it with a mag? Wish I had one of those 4 months ago:)

[Jimboot]

Ok volts on the pu cap get to 15v. Whilst drv batt at 1.270. There's a nice bright flash as the cap discharges over a diode. I have a red diode which then glows faintly as the drops to a steady 1.78v. I am using 3 of my orig drv coils for pu. About to test the torch ones. Fascinating stuff thanks mags for the reed switch tip. I haven't bothered to tune the motor yet to it's efficient running of this morn vid so it is consuming a whopping .02A. I have tried to attach to batt. there is an initial spike at the battery meter then it goes back to where it was & the cap drops right away to under 1v.

[Magluvin]

Hey jim
The reed in your case does not necessarily need the polarizing magnet. My rotor had every other mag N out and S out. So the polarizing mag gives the reed the ability to not close when N rotor mag passes it, but will close when a S rotor mag passes it.

But your rotor mags are all same pole out. So the polarizing mag is not absolutely needed. But it still can help in tuning the reed. It would be good to make a plastic or wood stand to hold the reed, and also keep it away from any iron brackets or screws as they affect the operation sensitivity, as seen in this vid below. Look carefully at the small drill bit used to tune the reed. This was before I had discovered using the polarizing mags. The drill bit directs the rotor mag field to the reed by attraction. Watch the whole vid for the various effects.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qYgs7dvyZqc


My reeds are usually activated with 1 end aiming at the rotor. This gives a sharper pulse. And a polarizing mag can help by adjusting it near the outer end to help complete the magnetic circuit in the reed for it to close.
I think I posted this vid here before, but here it is again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXbRvIqqatI

Mags