Overunity.com Archives is Temporarily on Read Mode Only!



Free Energy will change the World - Free Energy will stop Climate Change - Free Energy will give us hope
and we will not surrender until free energy will be enabled all over the world, to power planes, cars, ships and trains.
Free energy will help the poor to become independent of needing expensive fuels.
So all in all Free energy will bring far more peace to the world than any other invention has already brought to the world.
Those beautiful words were written by Stefan Hartmann/Owner/Admin at overunity.com
Unfortunately now, Stefan Hartmann is very ill and He needs our help
Stefan wanted that I have all these massive data to get it back online
even being as ill as Stefan is, he transferred all databases and folders
that without his help, this Forum Archives would have never been published here
so, please, as the Webmaster and Creator of these Archives, I am asking that you help him
by making a donation on the Paypal Button above.
You can visit us or register at my main site at:
Overunity Machines Forum



DIY Tesla Switch Guide

Started by geotron, March 05, 2010, 01:23:11 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

geotron

----------------------------------------------------------

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html

Dr.Lindemann states in reply #2 that the "SG 1524 dual flip-flop"
timer was used.  How does this one differ from a 555 IC?

Also, the diagram I've attached has me curious as well.
I haven't much clue on how these work - battery powered?

----------------------------------------------------------

Well I guess that besides the various component parts for this
project, the only things I will need to source are -

1) A suitable board to solder things onto.
2) A test meter
3) Soldering Wire
4) A set of four 12v batteries
5) High-Voltage Cables

Additionally I am open to suggestion in this area.

I've had plenty of experience working with metal in a
welding fabrication environment, so perhaps some of it
will bleed through into my work here.

I was kind of thinking that to start out with, perhaps
a set of rechargeable NiMH AA batteries might simplify
things a little... although I have no idea how this
might change my set of required component parts - besides
maybe having smaller diodes.

My plan will remain the same throughout to precicely
duplicate the schematic as presented... After which
providing it works (which I don't much doubt), I will
likely be in a much better position to handle the
construction of different models without so many
questions.

geotron

Here's a nice analog one I'm considering...

Perhaps small individual meters would
prove to be of unique convenience. I know
I've seen them somewhere...

geotron

I see that this might be something I could wire up
by myself.  If so, I may just forgoe ordering one. (edit: make that six)

A local source would be nice - are these commonly found in
at audio shops?

gyulasun

Hi Geotron,

Quote from: geotron on March 05, 2010, 10:08:12 PM

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewable-energy/962-use-tesla-switch.html

Dr.Lindemann states in reply #2 that the "SG 1524 dual flip-flop"
timer was used.  How does this one differ from a 555 IC? 

Here you can see SG3524 incl SG1524 and 2524) data sheets, they are still available.
http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/S/G/3/5/SG3524.shtml
The type number difference denotes commercial, industrial (temperature) ranges, no problem for tinkering, you can use SG3524 as the cheapest type, most component sales have them like farnell.com  digikey.com  futurlec.com  etc 
I do not think you would need to replace the SG3524 with a 555 timer, the former is available for $ 2-3 apice.

Quote
Also, the diagram I've attached has me curious as well.
I haven't much clue on how these work - battery powered?   

The CD4011 is a quad CMOS NAND gate and a simply RC oscillator is formed with it, the oscillator frequency is adjustable by the potmeter. Yes it needs a DC voltage source like a battery or a small power supply like a wall-plug-in with DC output voltage of 8-12V, depends on the relay coil too.
The MC7805 is a DC voltage stabilizer with a fixed 5V output, the CD4011 is fed by it, helps stabilize the RC oscillator frequency vs input DC voltage fluctuations.


Quote
I was kind of thinking that to start out with, perhaps
a set of rechargeable NiMH AA batteries might simplify
things a little... although I have no idea how this
might change my set of required component parts - besides
maybe having smaller diodes.

My plan will remain the same throughout to precicely
duplicate the schematic as presented... After which
providing it works (which I don't much doubt), I will
likely be in a much better position to handle the
construction of different models without so many
questions.

Well, regarding the four battery type I do not know if NiMH is ok or not, in 1984 the used types must have been lead acid batteries.  The diode type surely depends on the currents involved and the currents depend on the battery AmperHour capacity first, this is the main focus with diodes (and cables). No much need for HV cables, rather for high cross section area ones between the batteries but as I indicated it all depends on AmperHour capacity.

Re on you analog multimeter, it seems ok and it is able to measure DC (and probably AC) currents too. 

rgds,  Gyula

Groundloop

@geotron,

All the parts needed to build a close replica of the Tesla Switch can be bought from:

http://www2.mouser.com/Home.aspx

Here is the hard to find parts:
   
Mouser No:    511-SG3524N    
Mfr. #:    SG3524N
Manufacturer:    STMicroelectronics
Desc.:    Voltage Mode PWM Controllers Regulated Volt Mode

Mouser No:    863-MR852G    
Mfr. #:    MR852G
Manufacturer:    ON Semiconductor
Desc.:    Rectifiers 200V 3A Fast

Mouser No:    42TL013-RC    
Mfr. #:    42TL013-RC
Manufacturer:    Xicon
Desc.:    Audio & Signal Transformers XFMR 1KCT/8CT

Attached is the circuit that Mr. Bedini and Mr. Brandt made back in August 1984.

@gyulasun,

I think Mr. Bedini did use NiCad AA batteries for the "Sigar box" test circuit.

Regards,
Groundloop.