Newman Motor #3 by detrix42

[jadaro2600]

but the Joule Thief is not off the grid, it only takes induction from already induced electromagnetism that's already payed for, unless of course your a thief and steal from your neighbors at the same time and or some stray electric pole. 

although you might get induction via high voltage you will not get very much amperage. this is usually always the case, to much voltage and clearly not enough amperes to do some serious work.

Yes of course, the idea is tailored specifically to his commutation device.  there is a period in which no current flows though his motor ( unless i'm seeing things wrong ) ..during this time the joule thief activates and, the cap gets a boost.

This is the principle idea.  NOT that both are happening at the same time ...  the joule thief works BETWEEN commutation, ..therefore it must also have a very high rate of oscillation.

When contact is made, the joule thief cuts off or becomes less effective, and current flows through the diode off the collector and through the windings of the motor.

it may require another diode pointing to ground off the ground lead of the 'motor source' to prevent a reverse of polarity on the capacitor.

[detrix42]

but the Joule Thief is not off the grid, it only takes induction from already induced electromagnetism that's already payed for, unless of course your a thief and steal from your neighbors at the same time and or some stray electric pole. 

although you might get induction via high voltage you will not get very much amperage. this is usually always the case, to much voltage and clearly not enough amperes to do some serious work.

The concept that I am exploring, trying to prove or disprove, is generating a magnetic field in a coil using voltage, and very minimal current.  The theory is, the more voltage (little current), more atom alignment, better/stronger magnetic field.  A better/stronger magnetic field, more torque.  I want to keep my motors wattage around 1 to 10 watts.  So I think a joule thief circuit is capable of producing the high voltage with minimal current I want, with a small source.

[detrix42]

@jarado2600:
Thank you so very much for all this help.  I am using ceramic caps right now. I am trying different ones cause I don't think I have a 1uF cap.  The one with out a value in your schematic, I have one which I believe to be a 40,000pF (it has been a long time since I have read cap labels, this one has 403, that should be 40,000pF right?).  The one on the right side has a label of 683k.  Is that 68000k pF, or just 68000 pF?  I am using these because the are rated for 250v.  I put two in series to be able to handle 500v.  Are these values causing me problems?

[detrix42]

@jarado2600:
I tried a different transformer from the same power supply.  And it appears I figure out the pins/coils.  with a very used 9v battery, only measure around 6 to 7v, the output across the "683k" cap got up to 20v. I have a potentiometer where you said to have 100k-300k. all I had to cover that range is a 5Megaohm pot. When I go down near zero, I get the 20V.

To get 21V, the pot is at 1260 ohms.  Ok I am on the right track.  Thanks for your help.

detrix42

[detrix42]

Wow.  check this out: see pictures below;

@jadaro2600: I used a 1k ohm resistor inplace of the pot.

I am loving this.